If you’re actually serious about ditching the stock cooler, then go ahead—grab this one. A Ryzen 5 1600 isn't going to hit any thermal limits with a cooler like this.
The 0dB mode isn't bad, plus you get a 6-year warranty. 🤣
That kind of controller can be bootable. I’m running a PCIe to 2x SATA III adapter right now and booting Windows 10 without any issues. Picked it up because the SATA ports on my motherboard were acting flaky.
But like Smartic said, you aren't going to see any speed boost by putting an HDD on SATA II, so don't waste your time or money.
You won't find a "winner" among those three, but the Samsung EVO is the most consistent one based on the reviews.
Do your homework before you buy. Check exactly which ink cartridges it takes and what they actually cost—whether you're picking one up locally or ordering from eBay in the States.
I’m running an HP OfficeJet Pro. Each color cartridge runs me about $3.25, and the black one is roughly $6.75. It’s a color unit, handles A3 prints, and works as a WiFi copier and A4 scanner/printer.
But honestly? Finding a decent used one isn't easy.
You grab Windows straight from Microsoft via their media creation tool. As for activation, you can either buy a key officially or... well, you know how people handle that.
wiredotter14 said:What do you guys think this would go for on eBay (broken down by parts) once the Core i9 is pulled out?
And how much would it be worth if I swapped the Core i9 for a Ryzen 3 3220 instead? (Assuming the Ryzen 3 actually works in there, which it probably should.)
What do you guys think this would be worth on eBay if I sold it for parts after pulling the Core i9 out of the rig?
And what kind of value are we looking at if I swap the Core i9 for a Ryzen 3 3200G? (Assuming the Ryzen actually works in this setup—it should, right?)
GDDR5 is basically just DDR3 tweaked for higher speeds and lower precision, just with larger buffers than standard RAM. It usually sits around 1700-2300 MHz.
Zachary Nguyen2 said:Is it easy to swap crypto for dollars or euros?
Yeah, you just move it from your wallet to somewhere like your Coinbase account first—that’ll run you about $0.30. Then you sell the crypto for USD; the fee there is roughly 1%, plus whatever spread they take, which usually ends up being about 2-3% off the mid-market rate. After that, you just wire the cash to your bank account (enter your routing and account number), there's a $0.15 fee, and it hits your balance in a day or two.
There are cheaper ways than using Coinbase, but everyone uses it.
Pretty much. Basically, memory timing is what matters most. Micron and Apple are generally the top tier here. GPU prices are through the roof right now, and they aren't stopping anytime soon. Honestly, I wouldn't trade an RTX 3060 for an AMD card—those things are way too expensive. If you ask me, the smartest move is to just put an order in for some Ether over the next few months while the returns are actually decent. You'll walk away with more than if you tried flipping construction materials or whatever.