I bet Windows just decided to bump up your page file on its own once you threw more RAM into the machine—it does that sometimes—but you can actually go in there and tweak those settings yourself if you want: http://www.geeksinphoenix.com/blog/p...Windows-7.aspx
Look, you’ve gotta make sure the cards are from the exact same series—the manufacturer doesn't matter, obviously—but you can pair an NVIDIA GeForce 8800 GTX with any other 88xx model, just don't try pairing it with something like a 7xxx series. As for the memory and GPU clock speeds? Well, if you decide to mix and match different cards, the whole system is basically going to throttle down to the level of whichever card is the weakest link. Like, if you try to pair a 512 MB card with a 1 GB one, both cards are just going to settle for 512 MB each. Honestly, it's way better to just stick with identical cards.
The HX 850 will handle it without breaking a sweat—honestly, it puts out way more than its rated 850W anyway. Even if you decide to overclock your GPU, you’re going to have a hard time pulling more than 700W from it.
placidheron19 said:I've got this monitor and I was wondering if I can actually play 3D games on it using the Nvidia GeForce 3D Vision kit 😕 hardware-wise I'm all set—got an i7 and a SLI GTX 580 setup
placidheron19 said:First off, I just want to know if the differences between these two power supplies are minor, or if the Corsair is actually a much better solution. Money isn't really an issue here—I care about quality, not the price tag.
Thanks
They're pretty minor—the Corsair just runs a bit quieter under full load. Honestly, if you were asking my opinion, I'd tell you to grab the OCZ ZX 1000 because it beats both of them, but since you're stuck buying from Links...
Look, if you're aiming for a 4 GHz overclock, you don't necessarily need to go messing around with the voltage—you can just leave it on auto. If you run into any issues with Vdrop, just compensate using the Load-Line calibration and tweak those VRM frequency settings. One thing though—don't push it too far if you're still running the stock cooler; just make sure your temps stay under 65 degrees when you're hitting a full load. Every chip is its own little snowflake, obviously, but as a rule of thumb, you're looking at roughly 1.25V for 4.2 GHz and about 1.3V if you want to hit 4.5 GHz.
Look, you don't really have many options when it comes to this specific RAM since they basically stopped making it years ago.
I honestly can't tell you if upgrading is even worth your money at this point—you might be better off just saving up for a new rig, even if you end up grabbing something used like this one: http://www.craigslist.org/pc-computers/a...-listing-3651776
Running Windows 7 on that junk pile is going to be a struggle. I had a similar setup once—Pentium III, 2 GB of DDR, and an NVIDIA GeForce card—and it was a total mess, mostly just constant driver headaches. It definitely ran worse than it did on Windows XP.
Go to Control Panel -> User accounts, and you can just set your password right there in your account settings. That’s your standard Windows password—if you're looking for that specific prompt that hits you the second you boot the machine, you'll need to mess with the BIOS settings instead.
swiftdriver30 said:I’ve got a quick question—so, I’m running Windows 7 right now, and if I need help finding specific software for it or something along those lines, am I allowed to ask questions here? I mean, specifically regarding the 7 version—I just don't want my questions getting redirected elsewhere since I'm mostly looking for help with certain programs and stuff like that.
Look, this specific thread is strictly for Windows talk—if you're hunting for other types of software, there's an entire section of the forum dedicated to that. Besides, most programs run just fine on both Windows XP and Windows 7; there isn't really such a thing as "special" software made exclusively for 7.
Look, you can definitely play, but not with that power supply—that card is a total beast and pulls over 22A on the 12V rail, which your current unit almost certainly can't handle. It’s just not going to cut it. This should get the job done for you:
Brian Campbell36 said:Every two hours my PC just randomly resets itself—then when I try to boot back up, I get a Blue Screen of Death for about three seconds before everything just dies. Any idea how to fix this mess?
We aren't going to discuss piracy on this forum... just go use Google.