Honestly, if I were looking at a $2,000 budget, I’d probably grab a Core i5-2500K setup instead of dropping $1,500 on that specific i7—just thinking out loud here. For pure gaming? The 2500K holds its own. But, if you're actually trying to build something like a dedicated video editing workstation, then yeah, that i7 is definitely the smarter play.
Look, that processor could handle an NVIDIA GTX 580 in SLI without breaking a sweat—so don't go losing sleep over power delivery, it’s got more than enough juice for a 280. If you slap a decent cooler on it, you could probably push it to 3.5 GHz easily—and if you're lucky enough to snag a D0 stepping model, you could likely go even higher. Honestly though, what's the endgame here? For that kind of cash, you could probably score a used i5-2500K combo instead.
You probably mean the boot partition, not the recovery one—unless I'm totally off base here. Anyway, you can actually just grab an image of your C drive with this tool, which means you won't even need to touch the recovery partition at all; you just restore everything from the image you made instead: http://www.macrium.com/reflectfree.aspx
Jack Alvarez said:Hey everyone—does anyone know if there's any way to actually edit the subtitles on an original Blu-ray disc? Like, can you change them?
I'm running into some trouble trying to save my document in Word 2007—it seems to act up right after I drop in some equations and other math expressions. Anyone have a clue what might be causing this?
It’s pretty hard for anyone to give you an answer when you haven't actually described what's happening. Give us a little more detail, please.
Nah, there’s no such thing as a "one size fits all" software solution—it just doesn't work that way. What version of Windows are you actually running on your machine? If you're still rocking Windows XP, then you absolutely need to have Service Pack 3 installed for this to even stand a chance.
Jesse Williams13 said:Thanks in advance. I’m not exactly some total PC noob—I just finally decided to try overclocking my CPU to 3.6 GHz after spending two straight days reading guides and tutorials on how to pull it off properly. But here's the thing—every time I try to tweak settings in the BIOS, the PC just restarts a few times and kicks itself back to factory settings. Then the BIOS pops up telling me everything was reset to default because of an error (voltage adjustment issues). I set the core speed to 9*400 the system memory multiplier to 2.0 core voltage from 1.225 to 1.25 PCI frequency to 100MHz RAM timings at 5-5-5-18 I didn't touch anything else—I read somewhere that you should adjust the RAM voltage and some other stuff too, but I didn't dare touch it... If any kind soul could write down exactly what settings I should use in the BIOS, I would be extremely grateful. :-) After that, I'll run a stress test with Prime95 and see how things go.
CPU: E8400 (3.0 GHz), stock cooler RAM: 2 x 2GB DDR2 MHz Dual channel, DRAM frequency 400 MHz (which means an 800MHz effective clock, right?), pretty sure it's KINGMAX HDD: 512 GB SATAII Motherboard: Gigabyte EP45-DS3 c0 GPU: sapphire HD 4870 512mb DDR5 PSU: 550W Fortron, I think
One more thing: can I actually break anything trying to hit 3.6 GHz? I'm a little nervous. Also, is this stock cooler actually enough for that kind of overclock? I read that it should work without any issues, but I'd love to hear what you guys think.
Can you overclock with a stock cooler? Sure. Is it a smart move? Not really. Try overclocking without bumping the voltage first to see how much the processor can handle on its native voltage. Every single chip is different, so take any OC guide with a massive grain of salt.
Leave the RAM at its default clock and voltage—there isn't much practical benefit to overclocking RAM besides showing off, and it can easily lead to system instability. Keep the CPU:RAM multiplier as close to the memory's native clock as possible.
Try setting the clock to 3.7 GHz first, without touching the voltage, then crank up Prime95 (small FFT load) to see what kind of temperatures you're looking at under load.
Your computer probably crashed because the CPU voltage was too low.
Look, obviously you’re going to need some version of Microsoft Office—or at least some decent software capable of handling Excel and Word files—on every single one of those machines.
It all boils down to the file extension—doc is just the old-school format for Word 2003 and anything older, whereas docx is what you'll see in the 2007 versions and up. If you're stuck using an older version of Office, you’ll need to grab a compatibility pack if you actually want to open those newer docx files. And honestly? Your laptop has absolutely nothing to do with it.
analogwalker2 said:Benjamin King2 isn't dealing with any "confusion" here—it's just that some moderators clearly think they're gods. Probably can't get a word in edgewise at home or with their friends, so they come here to play tough guy. If you're actually struggling with a burning question, there’s a much better shot at getting an answer if you post it in a few different spots. Different types of people hang out in different corners of the web, after all. Honestly, after six years on this board, I think it might be time to go looking for a new forum.
Be my guest and go find some lawless corner of the internet where there aren't any moderators and everyone can just shout whatever nonsense they want. Good luck with that.
John Johnson15 said:Also, one more thing—if I'm hooking up a DVD drive and a hard drive to the same ribbon cable, can they actually share the same line?
Yeah, you can—provided you handle the jumpers on the devices correctly. You have to set them as either master or slave; if you leave them both on the same setting, you're going to have a bad time because only one of them will actually show up. Just check the jumpers on the back of the hard drive and the optical drive—set the drive to master and the optical drive to slave, and you should be good to go.
Alright, so your DVD drive isn't working for some reason—is that thing also running on a SATA connection? Are the disc and the optical drive actually tied to the same SATA cable?
Look, it’s not about being malicious or anything—it's just that we can't keep having five different conversations about the exact same thing. Double topics just create a massive mess. The forum has its own specific structure for a reason—it's there so people can actually find what they're looking for without getting lost in the weeds, and, you know, to stop everything from becoming a repetitive headache.
Did you double-check that the VGA cable is actually seated properly? If your monitor has any other ports besides VGA—which, let’s be honest, most modern ones do—you should probably dive into the monitor's own menu settings and make sure the D-Sub input is actually selected.
Benjamin King2 hit the nail on the head regarding the warranty—neither of those drives has any serious protective casing, so please, for the love of God, don't go banging them around. 🙂 As for the damage... well, it really depends on what we're talking about here. If your PC actually recognizes the drive once you plug it in, you can usually just jump in and rescue your data yourself.