Posts by darkowl72

I should probably snap some photos and post them here, because you definitely shouldn't be separating any plastic parts, and there's zero glue intended for mounting a keyboard. So, whatever you do, don't go using glue!

I can't say for sure, but it's likely either an issue with the component assembly order or the fact that some keyboards are designed to "snap" under the chassis to stay secure. See if you can gently flex that part, pull it back, and tuck it under the section it detaches from. But, take it easy—don't go forcing it or you'll end up snapping something. You might have to tear the laptop down again just to get it seated properly.

Anyway, just grab some pictures and post them here...

It’s pretty simple: all the older games were built specifically for a 32-bit environment because 64-bit was strictly reserved for professional workstations back then. The whole issue boils down to compatibility, since basically every API was written for 32-bit architecture. If you actually want to verify what I'm saying, you'd need to track down a 32-bit version of Windows and try running those same games there...

They aren't just little balls... okay, they *are* balls, but it's really just the shape of the solder (the stuff used to bond components together). Every contact point where a chip sits—whether on the underside of the chip itself or on the circuit board—is designed as a tiny indentation or hole meant to perfectly hold one of those solid solder spheres. A robot places these solder balls into all those tiny spots. Then, another machine sets the components onto them, and finally, everything moves along a conveyor belt through a stream of hot air. This melts the solder (which has a low melting point), effectively fusing the components in place.

The whole process is incredibly microscopic. The components are tiny, and sometimes a ball doesn't seat perfectly in its spot, meaning the solder won't cover the entire surface area it needs to. The component might actually work at first, but over time—due to wear, vibrations, or heat cycles—it slowly loses conductivity. Once that connection fails, the whole thing just dies.

It’s not an extremely common issue, relatively speaking, and sometimes you can fix it just by reheating the area. Other times, you have to rip the broken part off and resolder it entirely. It isn't easy, though; you need extremely precise temperature control over a microscopic area. It's way too easy to ruin the whole board if you don't have the right gear (what people call reballing stations).

I've seen people try to "fix" graphics cards this way using nothing but a kitchen oven or a heat gun, but honestly, there are way more people who end up breaking their hardware than the ones who actually succeed...

Either way, it’s headed to the repair shop. It could be a faulty voltage regulator component, or maybe the charging port just detached from the motherboard.

Check out this breakdown on NVIDIA's latest move. Honestly, it’s about time someone looked at the actual performance implications instead of just chasing benchmarks for the sake of hype. It’s a lot to digest, but there's some solid data in here if you actually care about how these chips hold up under real-world pressure.

Out of all those links you shared, only the Microsoft one is worth looking at. Stick to laptops with at least an i3 processor—don't settle for anything weaker than that. A Dell is a solid buy if you care about build quality and want that three-year warranty, but the integrated graphics are garbage if you actually plan on gaming. Honestly, the best move is the Microsoft model with the same processor but featuring the Intel Core i7 discrete graphics. Check out Notebookcheck to see what kind of performance you can actually expect from that machine. The Microsoft comes with a two-year warranty, but if you register it for that extra coverage, you get an additional year plus some extra protection during the first year.

If you want the best deals, just check Amazon.
As a student, you should be entitled to an academic email address and a free copy of Windows. Just head over to the NSF website or check in with your university's IT department to see what they offer.

Microsoft is alright. They’re the only ones offering a three-year warranty on all their laptops, which shows they actually trust their hardware quality. But look, new is new. The one area where Microsoft is going to get crushed is the battery. An old battery probably wouldn't even last three hours when it was brand new. Battery tech has come a long way—between better manufacturing and actual R&D, modern laptop battery life has basically doubled compared to what we were seeing four or five years ago.

Sure, that i5 might technically outperform a standard i3 today, but it’s definitely going to pull more power and the integrated graphics are pretty weak, which is my biggest gripe with it. Add in a battery that has a finite lifespan regardless of how you use it (even if it just sits on a shelf) and you’re looking at something that’s almost certainly reached its limit.

People talk about a "lifespan" for both the laptop and the battery—usually around five years, though that's subjective. In my opinion, you only buy used when you're strapped for cash and can't afford a fresh unit... 🤷

If you actually have the money, just get something new. It's just better.

Check with an authorized service center or the official distributor for your specific laptop. You aren't going to find something like that just walking into a retail store...

Honestly, you can actually find them...

For example:

The HP has an excellent processor and integrated graphics for this price range. It's got a spill-resistant keyboard, a rugged build, a fingerprint reader, and it’s incredibly light at just about 4.4 lbs. My only gripe is the price tag and the fact it only comes with a one-year warranty.

The Lenovo packs a discrete GPU and a two-year warranty, but it's pretty pathetic when it comes to USB ports and battery life.

If I had to pick, I'd go with the Fujitsu. Yeah, the one-year warranty and integrated graphics aren't perfect, but everything else—the spill-resistant keyboard, easy access service ports, 3 x USB3.0, solid battery life, quiet operation, and great build quality—makes it a killer deal for under $3,000.

http://www.notebookcheck.net/Fujitsu....147411.0.html

Here’s the issue. As soon as you lay out your requirements—FullHD IPS, no optical drive, an SSD, and integrated graphics—which is a perfectly logical setup for business use—it turns out to be a total mission impossible in the US market. In a more sophisticated, larger market, if you couldn't find that exact combo, you could at least step in and upgrade the laptop to your desired specs. But here? Not happening.

The closest thing to what you actually want would be the HP Pavilion, though it's a bit pricey:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/example_link_13116

Otherwise, the next best things are these two, but they lack an IPS panel:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/example_link_13193
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/example_link_13112

Then there's this option with a Dell Inspiron 15, where you'd need to swap the optical drive for an SSD:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/example_link_13313

If I were buying a laptop for myself, I’d go with this Dell Latitude:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/example_link_13115

It's a genuinely great machine, and honestly, the processor is plenty capable of handling everything you listed. You'd just need to swap the HDD for an SSD and bump up the RAM. That's a slight pain because there aren't any service hatches on the bottom.

So, to avoid voiding the warranty, you'll have to take it to an authorized service center. Since it's only priced around $800, you've got plenty of room in your budget to add another 4GB (or more) of memory and a decent 240/250GB SSD while still staying under your target price... And once you pay the service shop...

You end up with an excellent, ruggedly built laptop that weighs only about 4.4 lbs and gets nearly 8 hours of battery life, all backed by a 3-year warranty and NMWT during the first year (once you register for it). Plus, it hits every single spec you mentioned in your opening post...

You won't find better than that.

Not here... Check out the hardware marketplace, that's where all the listings are...

That’s not the motherboard model; it’s just the revision or version number. You need the actual model ID—something like BC875PLG—which should be printed somewhere on the board itself. Usually, you'll find it right near the middle, around the CPU socket or the RAM slots.

Once you track down the real model number, just head over to the IBM or Dell support site. Look through their archives under the End of Life or discontinued products section, and you'll find the manual for that specific board, looking something like this:

http://www.bcmcom.com/admin/Manual/B...GManual101.pdf

Everything you need should be laid out right there.

- touchscreen, integrated graphics:
http://www.bhphoto.com/shop/index.php...ducts_id=13340

- 23" IPS screen:
http://www.bhphoto.com/shop/index.php...ducts_id=13316

- 21.5" like the previous one, just faster and more powerful, but lacks the IPS screen:
http://www.bhphoto.com/shop/index.php...ducts_id=13349

- 23" IPS screen:
http://www.bestbuy.com/product.asp?produc...&code=82249ADM

- 21.5" with integrated graphics, cheaper option:
http://www.bestbuy.com/product.asp?produc...&code=82185ADM

- you could actually play some basic games on this one:
http://www.bhphoto.com/shop/index.php...ducts_id=13348

- but if you want to actually game, you’re gonna need to shell out a bit more money:
http://www.bhphoto.com/shop/index.php...ducts_id=13345

You could also just go with an All-in-One PC to keep things simple. There’s a huge variety out there in terms of power and specs, and plenty of them come with speakers and a webcam built right into the monitor housing (though, let's be real, those built-in speakers aren't exactly great for listening to music 😬) :

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/browse/All-in-One-PCs/ci/2357
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/computers/all-in-one-computers/pcmcat7062_pcmcat7062

http://www.newegg.com/p/All-in-One-PCs

For a standard home computer where you aren't gaming, you can get away with a cheaper option using integrated graphics. Prices start around $250. The only exception is if you actually plan on gaming; then you'll need a decent dedicated graphics card, which bumps the price up to $700 or more.

As for size, you've got options ranging from 21.5" up to 27". You can find high-quality IPS panels or even touchscreens, so pick whatever suits you. Keyboards and mice can be wired or wireless, and like I mentioned, some models include built-in speakers and webcams...

Let me know what kind of graphics-heavy tasks you're doing (specifically what games you play, if any) and what your budget looks like, and we can help you pick something specific...

And if you actually care about audio quality, just grab a soundbar to sit under the monitor...

Both are solid choices; you honestly can't go wrong with either one...

Nah. Looks like they're the only ones left...

http://www.ge-usa.com/innovations/c/ASP_SUPPORT/

I used to go to my local repair shop, but they lost their certification. Not sure why—I doubt it was a lack of skill, but I can't say for certain...

Nowhere. Nobody’s just sitting on these things in a warehouse. There are way too many different models cycling through the market at light speed for it to be worth anyone's while to stock them. Your best bet is to hit up an authorized service center, an importer, or a local dealer and ask around for a quote—just a heads-up, those prices can be brutal. Or, you could try scouring eBay...

Done... 😬

Look, he's fine... It comes with a 2-year warranty plus some sort of "quality guarantee." But let's be real, the Asus X series is basically entry-level, which is just code for cheap materials and loose QC.

The main difference between that one and the Acer you linked first is the graphics. That Asus relies on integrated graphics that eat up your RAM (which is why it’s spec'd with 6 GB), whereas the Acer has a discrete GPU that's actually faster and more powerful...

I'm also a bit confused why you're asking about a 15.6" Asus now when your original post was about 17" laptops? If you aren't even sure what screen size you actually need or want, you could pretty much ask for an opinion on every single laptop on the market at this rate... 🤷

Our needs aren't even remotely similar. For compaqlax, gaming is a huge factor, which is why they went for the most powerful graphics card possible in the $1500 price range.

Gaming isn't your priority, and your budget is $167 higher, which automatically means you don't need high-end graphics. You can just shift that money toward the processor and an SSD, which is exactly what you did. And hey, that's fine.

Also, when we talk about quality, the old "you get what you pay for" rule usually applies. That Acer setup with the i5, SSD, and a terabyte hard drive—plus that discrete graphics card—has to compromise on something... Like build quality, the LCD panel... and a manufacturer's warranty that's a measly 12 months.

The Asus he's comparing it to isn't some bottom-tier Asus model; it comes with a 2-year warranty plus a "quality guarantee" for the first year. Plus, there's still the $167 difference in price.

Under $500, you're barely seeing anything with i5 processors; it's mostly just stuff like this:

http://www.bestbuy.com/not...0S-09/product/

It's a solid, reliable configuration with a three-year warranty that actually fits what you need. At that price point, you just won't find one with an SSD...

SSDs have dropped in price quite a bit, so you can find 120 GB models starting around $117, and 240 GB ones for under $200. But honestly, looking at what you need, I don't see a real necessity for an i5 or an SSD either.

Look, if you really like that Acer and the specs and price work for you, I don't see any reason why you shouldn't grab it... The only thing I’d strongly suggest is paying that extra $33 at Best Buy for an additional 2-year protection plan, just so you can protect your investment a little bit...

Moving this thread to the heavy off-topic section... 😬

If you need to talk to someone, just use the hardware chat. Why on earth are you both quoting entire posts? Is it really that hard to just delete a little bit for the sake of readability if you're going to quote at all?

And I’ve read this twice now, Rembrandt, and I still have no clue what you're actually trying to say. What's your point? You're just theorizing without any actual basis or logic. What kind of "verifications" are you talking about? Who is verifying what?

Let's just shut this down before things get awkward 😬