As far as I can tell, unfortunately not. You can give it a shot, but official Acer support only provides drivers for 32-bit Windows 10 and 8.1.
That means you’ll likely be able to get Windows installed, but if any of the drivers—like audio, Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, or GPS—decide to stop cooperating (which, let's be honest, is expected), then that specific component just won't work.
If you're actually going to do this, do yourself a favor and create some kind of rescue media (USB, SD card) or a restore point on an external drive. Back up the entire installation, all your drivers, and everything else. That way, if the whole thing turns into a disaster, you can always revert back to your old 32-bit setup.
What kind of connector does the card even use? You might end up having to DIY a solution, like splicing a coax antenna cable to some specific adapter for the card. A part number or—God forbid—an actual photo would be a massive help here...
Try Googling the specific model number of that TV card, or just throw it into an eBay search. You'll probably stumble upon a picture of what you need eventually...
Or, honestly, just take the card down to a Chipotle and ask one of the guys there. They usually have all sorts of random connectors lying around.
That combo would be perfect 😬 if only GE made a 17" version 😬
GE is an absolute beast for the price. Plus, don't forget to register it immediately after you buy it—do it no matter what, and you'll snag that third year of warranty and NMWT during the first year.
The only thing going for that HP is the 17" screen. Everything else—the build quality, the internals, the warranty... it’s just bad, plain and simple.
Otherwise, maybe look for a 17.3" or 15.6" Dell that fits your needs, since they also come with a 3-year factory warranty...
You won't know until you actually try it. Besides checking if the device even plays nice with your phone or tablet, you’ve got to make sure the video transmission standards match what we use here. And honestly, you might only pick up a handful of local channels via terrestrial signals, and even then, only if you’re sitting in a sweet spot for reception. Definitely look for one with a detachable antenna—if you end up needing a beefier antenna just to get a decent signal, you're going to have a bad time.
I don't know if you've been following the news, but our terrestrial TV runs on the DVB-T system, and we're supposed to be transitioning to DVB-T2 soon. That requires an entirely different receiver and tuner, meaning all the current DVB-T gear will be obsolete. So, you really want to rush into this?
This review features a model with a beefier CPU and more RAM, but the breakdown on the chassis, build quality, battery life, and overall specs still applies to this one too:
PC6400 runs at 800MHz while PC5300 hits 667MHz. Theoretically, 800MHz RAM works fine on a slower bus—it just clocks down to match the speed—but sometimes things get glitchy during that handoff. If you don't absolutely have to, skip the PC6400.
You probably can't swap out the CPU anyway. Even if you managed to find a compatible chip (which is a long shot) and if it isn't soldered directly to the board, you'd likely run into massive compatibility issues. But honestly, your biggest bottleneck is the integrated graphics, which you can't change no matter what.
There's a 99% chance your laptop won't support an SSD. It's too old for that, and I highly doubt there's some magic BIOS update waiting to be released that would make an SSD work. Too bad...
Laptops aren't really built for upgrades in the first place, and your platform is ancient. It was never designed to be anything other than a basic machine where you might swap some RAM. I wouldn't bother pouring money into this thing; it won't help. Too bad...
Any TV repair tech could probably spot the issue in a heartbeat. It’s likely just some thermal protection tripping (assuming everything else is running fine). As for the cost, you won't know until someone actually opens it up—it could be a couple of bucks for a tiny component, or it might end up being a total wash.
Anyway, two years is nothing for a monitor; it should still have plenty of life left in it. If it’s a decent unit, it’d be a shame to toss it if a cheap fix is on the table.
We’re down to just three major players left in the HDD game: WD, Seagate, and Toshiba. From what I can see, Toshiba—the oldest of the bunch—is likely going to be the first one to ditch mechanical drives entirely in favor of SSDs.
As for Hitachi, they teamed up with IBM to form HGST, which Toshiba eventually swallowed up to handle their 3.5" and WD 2.5" drive production. That whole stretch between 2009 and 2012 was a massive shakeup; Toshiba picked up Fujitsu and Seagate grabbed Samsung... Honestly, if we're looking at history, Seagate is the absolute king of acquisitions. They’ve managed to gobble up everyone from Control Data Corporation and DEC to Maxtor, Conner, Quantum, and Samsung.
Under the Memory section, it shows the max capacity is just 2 x 2 GB—so 4 GB total. It also says DDR2 667 MHz is the only supported RAM speed, which happens to be both the fastest and the slowest 😬 option they allow...
There are tons of options out there and honestly, most of them are solid. You won't find many bad ones. Western Digital is everywhere because they have the widest range and manufacture their own drives, so naturally, you're going to see more of them popping up in warranty claims just due to sheer volume. Then again, with those massive production runs, you might occasionally get stuck with a slightly subpar batch. Who knows...
Major players like Seagate, Western Digital, and Toshiba all have their own proprietary solutions. Most come with a standard 2-year warranty, though some offer 36 months. As for the rest of the pack, I’d highlight Samsung—they often use Seagate drives in their products, offer a 36-month warranty, and the pricing is usually great. They come in both 3.5" (D3 series) and 2.5" (M3 series) formats.
I haven't heard anyone complaining about those specifically. They consistently pull good test scores and reviews, plus they aren't breaking the bank. So yeah, maybe look into one of those...
You really can't go wrong with any of the others either—just prioritize the longer warranty. Both ADATA and Transcend offer 36-month coverage, and Transcend has those colorful, ruggedized "military grade" shells. Also, worth mentioning is LaCie if you want something designer-focused; they're pricier, but the build quality is top-tier. Man, the selection is overwhelming... 😬
The real issue is you've been messing around in the BIOS, and if you changed something you shouldn't have...
That laptop came with Windows pre-installed along with a recovery partition on the drive that was likely protected somehow, so now we have to figure out what's actually left of it.
First thing's first: check if the date and time in your BIOS are actually correct. Sometimes that error pops up just because the date is wrong... If that's not it, try booting from the recovery partition, assuming it isn't totally trashed...
Looks like some uncalibrated geometry on a CRT monitor. Or maybe just a messed up refresh rate. If you're actually rocking a CRT, there should be physical adjustment knobs on the unit itself if it’s a decent model.
Otherwise, you ought to be able to tweak the display parameters in Catalyst. By the way, did Catalyst even detect the display correctly? What does it say in the info tab?
Edit:
I really hope you installed CCC (Catalyst Control Center)...
You picked up some kind of malware. It’s nasty stuff—it encrypted all your files so you can’t even get to them anymore. On top of that, this virus is responsible for all the other junk you're seeing on your screen...
Get in touch with the people I mentioned ASAP. You need to find out if there's any way at all to undo the damage this thing did...
It might look like you're just trying to open a newer Word file with an older version, but unfortunately, that second screenshot shows you've been hit by a virus.
Not trying to be a jerk here, but you need to ask about this immediately:
I think it’s worth it. Especially since this is a Toshiba l, meaning you aren't stuck with some bottom-of-the-barrel entry-level C-series model. You're getting better build quality, plus you can snag an extra year of manufacturer warranty—bringing the total up to three years—on top of the NMWT coverage during that first year. All you have to do is register on the Toshiba US website within 14 days of buying it, no matter what.