Posts by Joshua Garcia3

If the warranty on that GeForce GTX 1060 has already expired, I suppose there's an old, tried-and-true method you could try...

Douglas Ramos5 said:It’s probably not a driver issue; I’ve already cycled through everything. I’m not sure if using a DisplayPort to HDMI adapter would actually help, but I don't quite get it—if the HDMI port itself was dead, why would the signal stay active when the drivers aren't loaded?

The one thing you haven't tried yet:

https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-to-HDMI-Adapter/dp/B00XXXXX/

Are you talking about using the HDMI port on the graphics card? I mean, have you tried swapping in a different HDMI cable yet...

Tyler Jones46 said:So, what's the damage on all this?

- roughly $1567 (built it myself; parts came from AMD, Linksys, and Micro Center)

- the "Zalman S3 Plus" case actually has a slot for a DVD drive if you need one...

For about that much (maybe an extra $33 as mentioned above), you could probably just head over to Micro Center and have them build a similar rig for you...

Alexander Moore67 said:It beats the GTX 1050, which I guess you should just grab while they're still $667 available.
GDDR6 4GB, 3-year warranty
Turing Architecture, only 40W

So, I put together a new PC using these parts:

- Intel Core i3 10105F 3.7/4.4GHz, 4C/8T, LGA 1200
- Gigabyte H410M S2H V3, s.1200 H410M S2H V3 G13
- G-Skill DDR4, 3000MHz, 16GB (2x8GB total)
- Nvidia T600 Graphics Card, 4GB GDDR6
- Kingston 500GB NV1 M.2 2280 NVMe SSD, up to 2100/1700MB/s,
- Seagate 1TB 3.5" 7200rpm, 64MB, Barracuda,
- EVGA SuperNOVA 500W 80 Plus Bronze, Noctua NF-P12 fan
- Zalman S3 Plus Mid Tower Case

We loaded up "Fortnite" using his old profile from the previous computer, and my grandson is pretty thrilled. Compared to the old machine and that ancient Radeon HD 6670, this new setup with the Nvidia T600 doesn't stutter at all; everything runs smoothly. As he puts it, the graphics look way better than before...

We also tried out "CRSED: F.O.A.D.", but since it's new to him, he needs a little time to get used to the mechanics. Still, the graphics seem solid and it runs normally enough...

https://crsed.net/en/play4free/?r=ad...e7f50014883605

boldpilot5 said:Hey there.

So, I guess the setup would look something like this:

CPU: https://www.amazon.com/intel-core-processor-i5-12400f/dp/B09N6S6YV6

Motherboard: https://www.newegg.com/p/ASUS-Prime-Z690-P-ATX-LGA1700/123456789

SSD: https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-evo-500gb-ssd/12345

RAM: https://www.newegg.com/p/Corsair-Vengeance-LPX-16GB-DDR4/54321

Case: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/Corsair-4000D-Airflow-Mid-Tower-Case/12345

PSU: https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Power-Supply-850/dp/B07N7N6W2R

GPU: https://www.microcenter.com/product/graphics-card-geforce-rtx-series/12345

The parts seem compatible, I suppose. Is this actually a good value for the money? Does anyone have any other suggestions or maybe some critiques?

Thanks for the help and the answers so far. 🙂

I added these extra items to my own similar build:

https://www.newegg.com/seagate-1tb-hard-drive/p/12345

and this:

https://www.amazon.com/displayport-cable/dp/B0123456

Alexander Moore67 said:It beats the NVIDIA GTX 1050, which is probably worth grabbing while it's still $667 available
GDDR6 4GB, 3-year warranty
NVIDIA Turing Architecture, only 40W

I stumbled upon these specs online for the NVIDIA T600:

Minimum System Requirements

Intel Core i5, i7, i9, or Intel Xeon processor or newer
AMD Ryzen or AMD EPYC class processor or newer

I'm assuming this will work with the Intel Core i3-10105F I just picked up... or maybe not?

Oh, please, that NVIDIA T600 can handle quite a few games without breaking a sweat...

The price seems fair, especially since it’s brand new and comes with a 36-month warranty... assuming the comparison you laid out in your post holds up...

Those are some professional-grade cards, right? I guess you can still play games on them?

It’s all fine, I guess, but even then, it feels like way too much money to drop on something used with zero warranty. Who knows how many hours it actually ran or what kind of environment it was sitting in? I just don't know...🕺

Maybe something along these lines

- A brand new GTX 1030 OC with 2GB of GDDR5 goes for about $60 - $333 _ link1, link2, link3
- An AMD Radeon RX 550 XFX, 2GB GDDR5, brand new for roughly $85 - $433 _ link.; or maybe the 4GB GDDR5 version at link1

My current card is an NVIDIA GTX 660, 1GB, GDDR5

Given the components listed above, does anyone have a suggestion for a graphics card in the roughly $333 range? Maybe something that fits within that budget if anything decent can be found out there...

It looks like grabbing a single 16 GB stick ends up being cheaper than picking up a 2x8GB kit.

- DDR4 16GB (1x16) G.Skill 2666MHz AEGIS Bulk - $149
or maybe
- KINGSTON DRAM 16GB 3200MHz DDR4 CL16 DIMM FURY Beast Black - $164

I'm assuming I can just pop one stick of RAM into a single slot on my motherboard...

swiftfalcon89 said:1 * Intel Core i3-10100F 3.6/4.3GHz, 4C/8T, LGA 1200, nG BX8070110100F
Part number: int-cml-i3-10100f
1 * Gigabyte H410M h V3
Part number: H410M H V3
2 * Hikvision 8GB DDR4 2666 CL19 (16GB total)
Part number: HKS-4081CBA1D0ZA1-8G

Total with discount: $616

That i3 10100F is newer and faster than an i7 4790 k, and they both have the same core/thread count. Plus, you're getting a brand-new chip with a warranty, whereas who knows how much that old i7 was pushed to its limits without any coverage at all.
There's probably no point in grabbing 3200MHz RAM since, with that processor on that specific board, you won't be able to push it past 2666MHz anyway.

Can I temporarily plug my current "Asus AMD Radeon HD 6670 1GB GDDR5" into this new "Gigabyte H410M h V3" motherboard?

I’m bumping this "Home Office Setup" thread again. It’s been a little over a year since my last post, and unfortunately, my dream of a new PC hasn't materialized—mostly because wanting something is one thing, but actually having the budget for it is another...

We managed to get Fortnite running on the old rig, though the graphics are pretty lackluster and it stutters occasionally. It's playable, I guess...

Just to recap, here was the old configuration:

- Pentium Core2 duo E8600 3.33 GHz
- Power supply is a Fortron Blue Storm ii 500 w
- Case is a silver Gigabyte Triton 180
- Graphics card is a Gigabyte Nvidia GeForce 9600 GT
- 6GB of RAM

The only change we made was swapping out that passive Gigabyte card for one with an actual fan... the Asus HD6670...

While browsing through the recent "PC UPGRADE" threads, I saw someone suggesting to a user that they should upgrade their current motherboard with an "i7 4790k cpu"...

Given my limited "budget" (read: lack thereof), I've been looking into whether I could find a decent used setup like this:

- An Intel Core i7 4790 k processor, or maybe a slightly lower-end Intel I5 4690 k
- A compatible motherboard that features an NVMe slot for an SSD
- Matching RAM, either 4x4GB or 2x8GB, totaling 16GB RAM

Or, I could just go with what you guys suggested to me about a year ago:

Gigabyte H410M-H, Intel H410, s.1200, micro ATX
Intel Core i3-10100F, 3.6GHz (Turbo 4.3 GHz), LGA1200, boxed, no integrated graphics
Patriot Viper Steel PVS416G320C6K, 16GB DDR4 3200MHz, CL16, (2x8GB)

What’s the technical comparison regarding performance between the old i7 4790 k build and this newer i3-10100F option? Which one makes more sense right now from a value standpoint...

Obviously, the new option is going to be more than twice the price...

Charles Thompson15 said:I hope it’s okay if I jump in here; I couldn't find a better thread for this.

Does anyone know where I can pick up some UTP cable? I need about 5 meters, specifically looking for 0.5 or 0.6 thickness with solid cores, Category 7 or 8.

Micro Center doesn't have what I need, and as far as I know, Best Buy is out of luck too.

The technicians from AT&T told me I'd need this specific type of cable to connect my router to the wiring up in the attic.

Elka didn't go under; they were privatized and still operate, just with fewer employees. But honestly, they haven't manufactured network cables in ages—they shifted toward power systems and occasionally handle phone cable orders if someone calls them.

You probably don't even need Category 7 or 8; Category 5, or maybe 6, would likely do the trick.

Try looking at some computer hardware retailers, for example:

Nancy Grant31 said:Here is what I am thinking:

router
-LAN cable
--?
---PC
---PC

What exactly do I need to get two PCs connected?

I don't really have any other options here—the router is tucked away in a corner upstairs, and my room is on the ground floor, also tucked into a corner on the opposite side of the house. Basically, Wi-Fi is out of the question.

Thanks

You probably want some Powerline. It really just depends on whatever speed you're paying for with your ISP, but this specific set handles up to 1 Gbps.

https://www.chipoteka.com/article/1300...m_medium=click

https://supernet.com/product/A_TL-PA...m_medium=click

https://www.protis.com/products/detai...m_medium=click

GigaByte H410M-H is $166

Bryan Taylor6 said:Power Supply
The Asrock h410 doesn't actually have an M.2 slot for an SSD, so I guess you'd need to grab any H410 motherboard that actually includes one.

Exactly, we realized that pretty much immediately. 😁 There is an Asrock h410 M. 2 available, but the price jumps up quite a bit compared to the standard Asrock h410.

wiredotter14 said:It’s probably better if you're thinking about being future-proof since there are more cores, plus the upgrade path is significantly better—especially if you pick up a B450 motherboard (they aren't exactly pricey).
On the flip side, an i3-10100F is actually averaging slightly faster right now and won't be outdated for gaming anytime soon, at least compared to the 1600AF which has decent substance but feels a bit slower lately.

If you're working with a tight budget, I guess you might be better off going the i3 plus H410 route rather than pairing a Ryzen with an A320 board.

@Mahun, there isn't really a need to overclock, but a B450 is likely the smarter move because of the upgrade potential and general feature set. You could drop a 5000 series chip into a B450 board in a couple of years without any drama, giving you a solid upgrade with minimal effort.

Yeah, if you even slightly lean toward a B450 motherboard, the budget starts to creep up, I guess. 🙄