Posts by Joshua Garcia3

Joshua Garcia3 said:So, I've narrowed my list down to these specific parts:

ASUS Prime H410M-E Motherboard, Intel H410, LGA1200, mATX - $166
Intel Core i3-10100F CPU, 3.6GHz (Turbo 4.3 GHz), LGA1200, boxed, no integrated graphics - $231
Corsair Vengeance LPX Memory, 16GB DDR4 3200MHz, CL16, (2x8GB) - $185
480 GB CRUCIAL BX500 SSD, CT480BX500SSD1, SATA3, 2.5", up to 540/500 MB/s - $139
1TB Seagate Barracuda HDD 3.5" 7200rpm, 64MB, ST1000DM010 - $99

Now I just need a GPU. I was thinking maybe an NVIDIA GTX 1650 super or perhaps an NVIDIA GTX 1050 ti?

If I swapped out that Intel Motherboard and Intel i3 combo for an AMD motherboard and processor at roughly the same $433 price point, would I be able to get something better—maybe more powerful—assuming everything else stays exactly as listed above? Or...

EDIT: From what I can see, for about $433 I might be able to grab:

- AMD Ryzen 5 1600 CPU, AM4 socket, 12nm, YD1600BBAFBOX
- ASUS Prime A320M-K Motherboard, AM4 Socket, AMD A320, 2x DDR4, max 32 GB, mATX

Is that actually an upgrade over the Intel setup mentioned earlier, or am I mistaken...

Timothy Kim60 said:To be honest, I’d probably just ditch the HDD and that SATA SSD entirely. I'd just go with a single 1TB NVMe SSD instead—pretty much any modern platform supports those anyway. Maybe look for one with a solid 5-year warranty, specifically something like a Samsung 970 EVO or a Western Digital Blue. You can find them for under $300

I haven't really messed around with an NVMe SSD before. On a Gigabyte motherboard, I can see exactly where that NVMe SSD slots in because there's a visible M.2 connector right on the board, but I don't see a connector like that on this Asrock motherboard

Bryan Taylor6 said:Just get the GTX 1650 Super. There isn't much to think about there.

If your power supply is over five years old, I guess you might want to look into getting a new one.

The PSU is a Fortron Blue Storm II 500W. It’s probably been sitting around for about six years, but it was just used in a backup rig and maybe turned on maybe twenty times total, so it hasn't really seen much action. You think it's not reliable enough and needs replacing?

LINK

Timothy Kim60 said:Joshua Garcia3's advice is to just get a dedicated GPU if you're planning on playing Fortnite. It's not exactly a lightweight game; I think even the beefiest AMD APU would struggle with it.
Right now isn't exactly the best time to be buying hardware—we've got shortages and prices are climbing (though SSDs and RAM are cheaper than ever, which is a plus). Plus, most sites aren't updated, so our suggestions might not always reflect current reality.

Anyway, looking at things as they stand, the current best value is the i3-10100F (the one without integrated graphics)—it’s under $233 and performs roughly on par with the old i7-7700 flagship. You could grab a cheap H410 motherboard for it and 16GB of DDR4 RAM—definitely go with two 8GB sticks since they're incredibly cheap right now. Buying 8GB seems like a waste given the prices, and dual channel is becoming more important. There aren't really any 4GB DDR4 sticks anyway, and it'd be a shame to waste both slots on them, especially since H410 boards only have two slots.

For a GPU, the first decent option is the GTX 1650 super (which is noticeably better than the standard 1650) or, like someone else mentioned, there's been a GTX 1050 Ti 4GB floating around for about $333 lately. You can play pretty comfortably with those, though you shouldn't even dream of touching ray tracing settings. 😁

So, less is more, as the guys already pointed out.

So, I've narrowed my choices down to these parts:

Gigabyte H410M-H Motherboard, Intel H410, LGA1200, micro ATX - $166
Intel Core i3-10100F CPU, 3.6GHz (Turbo 4.3 GHz), LGA1200, boxed, no graphics - $231
Patriot Viper Steel PVS416G320C6K Memory, 16GB DDR4 3200MHz, CL16, (2x8GB) - $185
480 GB CRUCIAL BX500 SSD, CT480BX500SSD1, SATA3, 2.5", max up to 540/500 MB/s - $139
Seagate 1TB 3.5" 7200rpm, 64MB, Barracuda, ST1000DM010 - $99

Now I'm just left with the graphics card. So, was the suggestion a GTX 1650 super or a GTX 1050 Ti?

wiredotter14 said:What kind of power supply are you running?

My current setup:
- Intel Core 2 Duo E8600 3.33 GHz
- Power supply is an EVGA 500W Power Supply
- Silver Corsair Triton 180 case
- Nvidia GeForce 9600 GT
- 6GB RAM

I guess this build is just too weak for "Fortnite," which lists these requirements:

Minimum System Requirements

Video Card: Intel HD Graphics 4000 on PC or Intel Iris Pro 5200 or equivalent AMD GPU on Mac
Processor: Core i3-3225 3.3 GHz
Memory: 4 GB RAM
OS: Windows 7/8/10 64-bit

@tirox: Hey, it’s been a while since we last caught up.

I could use some advice on a build for a home setup—mostly just office work, streaming, browsing, and some light gaming for a middle schooler.
We’ve already got the case, the power supply, and a 24" IPS monitor ready to go. For now, we'll probably just rely on the integrated graphics from the motherboard.

We're debating between an 1151v2 or a 1200 socket setup, so here's what we're looking at:

- ASUS Prime B360M motherboard, Socket 1151v2
- Intel Core i5-9500, 3.0GHz, 9MB cache, Hexa-core
- 256 GB Kingston KC600 SSD
- Two sticks of 8 GB Kingston HyperX Fury DDR4 2666MHz memory

Or maybe this route:

- Gigabyte B460M DS3H motherboard, Socket 1200
- Intel Core i5-10500, 3.1GHz, 12MB cache, Six Core
- 256 GB Kingston KC600 SSD
- Two sticks of 8 GB Kingston HyperX Fury DDR4 2666MHz memory

We would also toss in a 1TB HDD for extra storage.

I'd appreciate any suggestions you guys might have.

restlessdrifter12 said:I downloaded the "anReader_4.2.8_Marica_Act.exe" file, but I'm kind of lost on what to actually do with it.
Do I need some other software to run this?

I mean, did you even bother reading the documentation on their website?

https://anreader.alphanum.com/

And here’s the guy I was talking about in that other thread:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-FM-DAB-...ak6xmnahsgILsA

Just try setting the location to Belgium or Germany and then run the search.

It really depends on what they're trying to achieve. If they just want to sit down and watch a movie or a series, honestly, they should probably just scrap the AVIAddXSubs route. It doesn't actually convert the file; it just burns in the subtitles, which takes maybe three minutes. Everyone else usually converts the whole damn thing, which takes way longer—it all depends on how big the file is, the quality, and I guess how beefy their PC processor is. They can choose whichever fits their needs, I suppose.
Which device are we talking about here? I'll need the manufacturer and the specific model.
Have you given Handbrake a shot yet?

Charles Thompson15 said:I gave it a shot, but I’m not a fan of how it turns the AVI into a DIVX file; I really just want it to stay an AVI. I'll try some other options. Thanks for the suggestions.

It's actually just a standard AVI, it just happens to have a DIVX extension. You can probably just manually rename it back to AVI. Some TVs or DVD players are picky and will only play files explicitly labeled as AVI.

It's almost certainly an AVI file; just change the extension from DIVX to AVI and you should be fine.

If you aren't sure, you could always check the movie details after adding the subtitles using MediaInfo.

Charles Thompson15 said:Is there actually a way to hardcode subtitles directly into a movie file? I mean, I’d want to have just one file—like an .avi, for example—where the subtitles are already baked in without needing a separate .srt file. If I'm making sense here, I basically want it to behave like a recording from a TV broadcast where the subs are part of the image and you can't just toggle them off.

AVIAddXSubs

I mean, it’s almost certainly a dead graphics card.

Maybe just borrow a DVI cable from a buddy or a neighbor and give it a shot.

Maybe try borrowing some "G.SKILL Ares 2x4GB DDR3 1600MHz" RAM from a friend or a neighbor and see if you can get the PC to boot using 1333 MHz instead.

I honestly doubt the phone connected automatically the very first time without you manually entering the password. Once you've saved those credentials once, it just reconnects on its own from then on.
Maybe try calling Customer Support at 1-800-555-0199; they should be able to walk you through it.

The only way to be sure is to test your GPU in a friend's rig or maybe swap hardware with a neighbor to see if it actually works.

Check out this tutorial.

Maybe try reconnecting that cable and then popping the IBM out and back in again. It might just not be seated quite right in the slot.

It’s probably just a case of bad drivers. Honestly, when you start messing around with those kinds of chemical workarounds using an adapter, things tend to get pretty messy.