If you have three computers, you're going to need three separate Windows licenses. In case you ever face an audit, you'll need a paper trail showing you actually purchased three distinct Windows licenses—plus, each individual machine needs its own unique serial key.
You could go the OEM / Retail route, or maybe—if you want an alternative—you could set up a contract directly with Microsoft to get their products through a monthly subscription or flat fee.
File size can vary quite a bit—it really just depends on whatever video compression the TV uses.
The easiest way to rule this out is to try a test run; maybe record something for about 5-10 minutes, but don't turn the TV off—just let the recording finish naturally. If you can actually play the playback back, then I guess it just means your TV doesn't support recording while it's powered down. There are different ways to record to a USB drive or external hard drive—some setups allow for recording while the TV is off, and some just don't.
Apparently, there’s this software called DeSTRoi that claims it can decrypt certain Samsung TV models. I haven't personally messed around with it—so I can't vouch for it—but if you're looking to tinker with your setup: http://forum.samygo.tv/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=6574
Manufacturers seem to love using these specific video formats for their proprietary files. I've tried several times on my PC to stitch together footage recorded directly from a TV via a streaming stick—which usually ends up being a bunch of individual files—but I can never get the audio and video to sync up properly.
Since the SRF format includes some kind of encryption too (at least, that's my impression), I'm wondering if this recording is strictly tied to that specific TV model or if it could work on others?
Next time you're curious about how a specific piece of hardware actually functions in person, maybe just grab something off eBay for $17 and tear it apart.
To start with, I’ve basically tried two different ways to handle this:
- I installed an older version of Outlook (part of an old Office suite) on my old system—then I just moved everything from Outlook express -> that old Outlook -> then into the new Outlook. - Or, you could try transferring via Windows Live Mail. On newer versions of Windows, that's essentially what replaced Outlook express. You can grab it through the Windows Essentials package, which is free on Microsoft's website http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/w...ive/essentials—so the path would be Outlook express -> Windows Live Mail -> the new Outlook.
I can also point you to where the address book is located if you're having trouble finding it.
Maybe Windows Live Mail will be enough for you—it's really just a reskinned version of Outlook express. Just a heads up during installation, though: make sure you only check the box for that specific program, otherwise it might try to install a bunch of other stuff you don't actually need.
Sandra Brooks91 said:That supplemental insurance covers quite a bit—just keep in mind you usually need to sign up about a month in advance for it to kick in. This part is through Medicare, though I'm not entirely sure how the private plans work..
Thanks for the info. In the end, I just went with the supplemental coverage from Medicare. I handled everything online—it should be active starting November 11th, which is about two weeks after I set it up online.
I've got an outpatient surgery coming up soon—scheduled for about a week. Since I don't have any supplemental health coverage right now, I was wondering if it actually matters which provider I go with? Also, do I really need both supplemental insurance and extra private coverage, or is one enough?
You're looking for a drive enclosure—basically an external bay for a 3.5" SATA drive. http://www.amazon.com/external-hard-drive-enclosures/b?node=12513281 The enclosure should come with all the cables you'll need. Just keep in mind—you’ll always need a wall outlet handy since it requires a power adapter.
As far as I know, no. Maybe if there’s some specific setting in the BIOS or if a date got messed up on some component of the motherboard, but I wouldn't know the specifics on that.
In my opinion, you're still looking at either the motherboard or the HDD. I'm not sure how you can rule out the motherboard—as for the HDD, you could just try swapping in a different hard drive, install a fresh copy of Windows, and see if it acts up the same way.
Hopefully someone comes along with a smarter suggestion than mine.
Since you mentioned the whole process takes about six minutes, you should be able to pull up Task Manager as soon as the desktop loads—that gives you plenty of time to check out the resource usage. You can also launch the Performance Monitor directly from there.
shadowpanther0 said:I won't be able to look at that until I actually get to my desktop, right? It’s booting up incredibly slowly right from the start so, I guess, I might not see what's hogging everything during the actual boot sequence.
How long does it take from the moment you hit the power button until the desktop screen actually appears (meaning, before all the icons, taskbar, programs, and services start loading)? If that specific part takes forever—before the OS has even finished loading itself—then either the motherboard or the hard drive is likely having some major issues. Regarding that used motherboard, how old is it, and how long has it been sitting around unused?
Have you tried keeping an eye on the Performance Monitor or Task Manager while Windows is booting up? Just to see if any specific resource is hitting 100% usage. For example—I recently had this issue with Windows 8 where my hard drive was constantly pegged at 100% during startup, and it didn't stop until I finally let it finish all its Windows Updates.
Here’s the list of memory modules compatible with your motherboard: http://download.gigabyte.eu/FileList...-m61sme-s2.pdf
It's pretty important to check if you're adding a single-sided (SS) or double-sided (DS) module—you can't really mix an SS module with a DS one. Basically, an SS module just has the memory chips on one side of the stick, whereas a DS module has them on both sides.
You’ve basically got two options here: either pick up a network card with a better antenna or just put a repeater between you and the access point.
There are all kinds of cards out there—I personally use this one and it’s been doing fine for me Repeaters tend to be the more expensive route, I guess.
It’s pretty likely the software has some kind of "smart" feature built in—something that automatically toggles that effect on or off. I think there are a few different functions like that mentioned in the documentation: http://www.dolby.com/us/en/technolog...4-overview.pdf
