Unfortunately, you haven't provided any specific details. I don't know if you're running a Pentium or whether your RAM is DDR2 or DDR3. You should probably run a tool like Speccy to get those specs. It would also be incredibly helpful if you could identify your power supply—just pop the side panel off and snap a photo of the label—as well as the case and other components. At the very least, you might find some useful parts to salvage for your next build.
Yeah, he usually posts like this whenever his graphics drivers crash. He probably remembered to test out some different drivers. You can try those steps mentioned above yourself if you haven't yet; it’s pretty straightforward.
Most repair shops will give you a year of diagnostics, like an extended warranty. 😬 Honestly, this is almost certainly a software issue—worst-case scenario, you might just need to reinstall Windows. 😬
It’s most likely a software issue rather than a hardware failure on your PC.
Try downloading the latest drivers click (hit download when it automatically detects your system), then just run the installer (if you aren't sure what to do, just keep hitting "Next," "Yes," and so on). Once the installation finishes, it’ll prompt you to restart—just hit "Yes" or "OK" and then see if that fixes things.
They’re solid. Their prices are great, and even though they don't post much in their own threads, I’ve seen reviews elsewhere saying they handle returns lightning-fast. If this shop were some shady operation, word would have spread online by now, leaving them with dozens of pages of angry customers on Yelp.
Exactly. The issue is that every single one of these new graphics cards up to $133 is an absolute disaster—they aren't even remotely as powerful as that As for $133, it’s a complete joke compared to the performance of the old HD7770.
They’re nowhere near the worst, honestly. You should at least skim the last couple of pages of any thread to get the full picture. They aren't even really based in the States anymore, which makes their communication and marketing even more frustrating.
Otherwise R4 is a much more budget-friendly case option. Personally, I think these recent prices listed below $233 are actually pretty solid. Review It comes in black, titanium, or white.
Honestly, any graphics card under the $500 mark $200 is basically just buying a generic, no-name brand. If you're just using it for display purposes—meaning you aren't actually gaming—you might as well grab the cheapest option out there, like this one.
In my opinion, jumping from a GTX 660 to an R9 280 isn't worth the investment. Sure, it’s more powerful, but it’s hardly a massive leap forward that justifies the cost. As for RAM, you really don't need more than 8GB for gaming purposes.
Regarding the wait, if you happen to be looking for graphics cards, you might want to hold off until summer. That's when we expect new AMD cards and the GTX 960Ti/965 to hit the market.
Honestly, that doesn't seem like the best value for such a massive investment. If you want to get technical, otherwise R4 is the standard term for that kind of thing.
On another note—you should really do some digging into what people are saying about eDigital's track record.
Also, 50°C temperature for what exactly? Generally speaking, seeing temperatures north of 60°C under load for that CPU is perfectly normal. It's the same story for gaming cards like the R9 280; hitting over 70°C while working hard is totally standard, depending on which specific model you're running.
Well, her price point is fair enough. As far as value goes, this one is currently sitting at the $290 mark, making it the cheapest option out there—especially when you compare it to an ASUS model. While the ASUS card features a custom-engineered cooler specifically tailored for the R9 290, you have to weigh that against the fact that ASUS offers a one-year longer warranty. In my book, that extra coverage might actually make her the smarter buy.
Oh, sure, any GPU sitting around $120-$$433 is always going to be a total steal. Back in the last generation, if you were looking at pure price-to-performance (based on US pricing, though the logic holds up anywhere), the heavy hitters were the AMD Radeon HD 7850, the AMD Radeon HD 7870, and the NVIDIA GeForce GTX 650 Ti Boost.
Right now, the top four contenders in that bracket are definitely the R9 270, the R9 280, the NVIDIA GeForce GTX 970, and the AMD Radeon R9 290, depending on whatever the current market price happens to be. The R7 260 also held its own in that group whenever it dropped below $233
If you can find a way to grab this one, go for it. Honestly, it’s probably a total steal—definitely lands in my top three for pure price-to-performance value. Plus, it isn't much more expensive than a GTX 750, but it packs a significantly harder punch than . EDIT
I noticed they're out of stock at Best Buy, but you should be able to find it over at Micro Center or even through Walmart .
Alexander Moore67 said:Regarding that comment about the Green drives—honestly, I haven't seen a single one fail on me. The only ones that have died are the WD Blue ones, and I've had several go belly up while still under warranty. Blue is just garbage...
It seems like some people have actually had more issues with the greens (and that includes replacements from RMAs) You've been running those greens for five years; that's a completely different story than what's hitting the shelves today.
That said, I did read somewhere that recent batches have improved and aren't failing nearly as often as they used to.
Robert Rodriguez2 said:Man, just lend me your $400 indefinitely so I can finally go out and buy my own 🙂.
Let's just split the cost... Or you take the stand and cables, and I'll take the monitor.
wearyfalcon28
It’s a weird setup (laptop HDD, an overpriced GPU, etc.). Honestly, you should just start a new thread—list your budget, what you need it for, and if you're strictly set on an ITX build.
Alex Sullivan4 said:Fair enough. I wasn't actually planning on buying the expensive one—I was mostly just curious about how it worked.
So, just to wrap this up—between X99 and Z97, which one would you pick?
I updated my previous post specifically to address that point.
It all comes down to what you prioritize in a build. That pro-grade socket is a rock-solid investment that’ll serve you for a lifetime, but let's be real—for pure gaming, it's total overkill. Like I mentioned before, you have a massive budget here. You can grab whatever you want and still have plenty left over for other gear.