It would work, but why on earth would you drop nearly $867 on that RAM? You could just grab two of these or four of these instead.
That extra speed isn't even going to give you any noticeable boost click here. Besides, your motherboard and CPU are natively rated for 2133MHz anyway; anything higher is just an overclock profile (using XMP in the BIOS).
Save your money; spending 100 USD on this would be throwing it right out the window.
EDIT
When it comes to gaming, there’s honestly not much difference between an Intel Core i7-4790K and an i7-5820K. In most games, you won't see a huge gap even comparing an i5 to an i7, or sometimes even an i3. It's the same deal with DDR3 versus DDR4 (as you can see in the link provided). The only exception is if you're doing professional work with heavy software—though even then, the margin isn't massive.click—you've got Photoshop under Adobe.
Then again, like others have pointed out, that $18,000 price gap between those i7 chips is a massive ocean to cross. Sure, you get more expensive memory and a better motherboard, but that $18,000😬 is just overkill.
Alex Sullivan4 said:Fair enough—that’s exactly why I mentioned going with the pricier options.🤔 Maybe swap in an ASUS Maximus Z97 or something similar along with a 650W Gold PSU, then take the savings and put them toward an SSD—like that Samsung 850 Series SSD you mentioned earlier. 🙏 Also, if you don't mind me asking: which do you think is better, an MSI card or an ASUS Strix GTX 980?
If you're looking at an admin, go ahead and grab it. This is it. It’s an absolute beast—go with the ASUS Maximus Z97. Honestly, everything listed above is just throwing money down the drain.
Drew Sanchez82 said:From what I can gather looking at these two cards, I’d personally lean toward the ASUS Strix model. It comes with the DirectCU II cooler straight from the factory and stays about 30% quieter during use. I think the MSI version lacks that 0dB fan technology, which basically means the fans stay totally silent when you're just idling or doing light tasks.
Both options are solid for gaming, honestly. In my opinion, the ASUS Strix pulls ahead slightly because it actually features a backplate. These days, the Twin Force models feel like they're made mostly of plastic compared to how they used to be, but they definitely aren't worth an extra $100. To be fair, no GTX 980 is truly worth that kind of premium, but if someone is dead set on it...
Regarding that first build—I don't really see the point of getting $767. Even 1,300 USD feels like an overkill, especially since you opted for a budget SSD in the 16,500 USD build 🤷
That power supply is massive overkill. A decent 550-650W Gold unit would handle dual GTX 980s without breaking a sweat, let alone just one
Alex Sullivan4 said:@Robert Rodriguez2 - the laptop is basically sold—it’s staying "in the family" 😁 just so we can settle on a price $333 —which is why I was asking here to see if anyone else had suggestions
@crimsonstag84 I was thinking about going with the Corsair Air 540 case and pairing it with the Corsair Hydro Series H110 liquid cooler.
Honestly, you don't really need recommendations when you already know exactly what you want—especially since with a budget that massive, everything will fit. crimsonstag84 already suggested a best-buy high-end case (the R5), which offers just as much airflow for a better value.
From what I can see, all you really need is a recommendation for a motherboard compatible with your chosen CPU—something like a Gigabyte GA-X99-Gaming 5. If you want some serious high-end swag for a power supply, look at a SuperFlower Leadex 650W Gold; it can handle 2x NVIDIA GTX 980 cards without breaking a sweat. For an SSD, definitely grab a Samsung 850 Series SSD (maybe the 250GB version).
Regarding the laptop, it really depends on whether you can find a buyer. I'd suggest aiming for about 20-30% less than what you originally paid when it was brand new.
1 x Intel Celeron G1840 (2.80GHz,512KB,2MB,54 W,1150) Box, 1 x Asrock H81M-HDS, s1150, Intel H81, M-ATX, dual Channel 2xDDR3 1 x DDR3 4GB (1x4GB) Kingmax, 1600MHz, FLGF 1 x Zalman T5 mini tower case. 170(W) x 427(H) x 348(D)mm. 1 x FORTRON 400W Power Supply, HEXA Plus 400, 12cm fan 1 x LG GH24NS DVD writer, DVD±RW, 24x DVD±R ,8x DL , 40x CD-R 1 x WD 1TB HDD, Caviar Blue 10EZEX, 1000 GB, SATA3,64 MB, 3.5", 24mo
$716
Since this is an office PC, if 120GB is sufficient, you could opt for just an SSD instead of that 1000GB HDD. An SSD offers significantly faster performance, though it does come with a higher price tag per gigabyte. SSD vs hybrid vs hdd
For example:
1 x Intel Celeron G1840 (2.80GHz,512KB,2MB,54 W,1150) Box, 1 x Asrock H81M-HDS, s1150, Intel H81, M-ATX, dual Channel 2xDDR3 1 x DDR3 4GB (1x4GB) Kingmax, 1600MHz, FLGF 1 x Kingston 120GB HyperX Fury SSD, 2.5", SATA 3 6G 1 x Zalman T5 mini tower case. 170(W) x 427(H) x 348(D)mm. 1 x FORTRON 400W Power Supply, HEXA Plus 400, 12cm fan 1 x LG GH24NS DVD writer, DVD±RW, 24x DVD±R ,8x DL , 40x CD-R
$730 Assembly and shipping are free through our site. Alternatively, you can run both an SSD and an HDD simultaneously if you need more storage—essentially creating a hybrid setup using a sshd. You are welcome to tweak this configuration however you see fit to match your specific needs.
Monitor:
Consider an IPS monitor with a pivot function, such as this one. Generally speaking, a pivot stand is a fantastic feature; click here. If you don't strictly require those features, you can certainly cut costs; for instance, this is a great value purchase. This model also uses an IPS panel, which provides superior color reproduction and avoids the color shifting or dimming issues seen in standard TN panels when viewing from wider angles. click here
Note that this build could be made even more budget-friendly by utilizing a lower-tier office power supply, a case without front-facing USB 3.0 ports, or a motherboard lacking a USB 3.0 header.
Benjamin Peterson5 said:By the way, who would you guys recommend as the best Best Buy equivalent here in the States for online shopping? I’m looking for a reliable spot—specifically one that actually handles returns quickly and doesn't make it a total nightmare when something goes wrong. 🙂
If you're only looking at those two shops, I’m guessing you're checking out locations in Rhode Island, St. Louis, or maybe even somewhere like Virginia. If you go with one of those six options in the link, you can save a massive amount of cash if you pay upfront—it’s really up to you, though. You laid out the warranty issues perfectly, but keep in mind that the delivery service will notify you when your package arrives. Otherwise, the only real difference is whether you'd be mailing a return back to a shop in a place like Chicago or Miami, versus just walking right into a Home Depot or Best Buy to handle it in person. That said, don't expect the physical route to speed things up; in fact, it’ll most likely take even longer.
If you're looking for where to buy your gear, here are my top recommendations: ADM, Centro, IT Futura, Magazin RS, and Uzishop. Just a heads-up, Uzishop is a pure online retailer, whereas the others actually maintain physical inventory you can rely on. Also, most of them offer free assembly if you order a build, though Centro does charge a small fee—roughly $6—for configuration services.
You should probably just Google some reviews for those shops and compare their prices before making a final call.
Everywhere. If you're looking at something just slightly above an R9 270, it should be easy enough . What kind of power supply are you running?
Nathan Castillo16 said:A Point of View GeForce GTX 570 TGT Ultra Charged Dual Fan 2.5GB or an EVGA GTX 680 2GB.
The GTX 680 is clearly more powerful. The real question is what price are they asking, which specific PSU model are you using, and what CPU do you have?
For basic Microsoft Office work, you can get by with a decent PC setup—maybe a tower around $500 plus a monitor, depending on your budget. You could grab a nice IPS display for anywhere from $150$333 up to $500 that even has a pivot function, and it’ll handle everything just fine. Honestly, why even look at a Mac, especially if you're planning on running Windows anyway?
You can find free assembly and shipping at places like Best Buy or Micro Center, whereas if you go through someone like Newegg, you're basically just paying for the delivery service alone...
An all-in-one from 2006? You're better off just buying a new PC. 😬
Did your monitor actually die, or were you being vague—because with an all-in-one, the screen is basically the entire computer. If you're really set on trying to fix that relic, take it to a local repair shop to see if they can swap out any components. Otherwise, just tell us your budget for a new setup and what you plan to use it for.
Motherboard: AsRock N68C-S UCC - give it a shot $50 Processor: Intel Core 2 Duo - 50-$33$ - honestly, starting at 100-$ $50 you can find processors that are more than twice as good (like a Celeron G1620), though perhaps someone specifically needs or wants an AM2 CPU RAM: 4GB DDR2 - $67 enough for everything ($17 per GB)
Just to be safe, I’d recommend doing a clean reinstall of your graphics drivers—try to grab the latest version directly from the manufacturer's website, as they usually bundle the HDMI drivers in there too.
If you find it isn't a driver issue, here is a link with some general troubleshooting steps regarding that specific error: link
Try heading into the Nvidia Control Panel and looking for something under 3D settings or global settings—specifically, set the preferred graphics to the high-performance Nvidia processor.