Posts by Kimberly Gomez34

I hope you went with the first Gigabyte board—it’s much better for overclocking, whereas the other one is just way too overpriced.

You didn't misread it; the AMD Radeon R7 260X is a bit more powerful, but it’s honestly not a massive enough leap to lose your mind over.
Look, you could always grab the AMD Radeon R9 270 (or the 270X)—but just a heads-up, your CPU is going to be a major bottleneck, so it might hold that card back depending on what you're playing. That said, if you're planning on upgrading your CPU anytime soon, go for it so you have something solid to build on.

I’m honestly not sure how Assassin's Creed IV would perform on your setup since it requires at least an older quad-core CPU, but give it a shot anyway.
The rest should run just fine.

Zachary Cruz6 said:Ugh, thanks! I was actually thinking of an XFX 450W, but this works too.

You can definitely go with that if you want; it's a top-tier power supply.

Zachary Cruz6 said:So just recommend me which one to get for $100 and what the budget should be.
I want to pick up something decent.

Well, the one I mentioned earlier is the absolute best value for that kind of cash.
http://www.newegg.com/p/example-link-1

Considering the price point—in my opinion, the HD7850 isn't even worth it at $120-$433, because you can get significantly better performance from this one right below it $300

specifically the 2GB version.
http://www.newegg.com/p/example-link-2

That being said, that card might actually be overkill for your current rig; you won't fully utilize its power right now, but it would definitely serve you well in the future once you upgrade your CPU.

Actually, for your specific processor, something more realistic would be this:
http://www.amazon.com/example-link-3

Jesse Lopez83 said:I could definitely run these newer titles or even jump back into Crysis if I picked up that graphics card. Does anyone have an idea what this HD3800 is actually worth on the market right now?
Can you recommend a solid power supply that won't break the bank?

LP-Karlo

Chicony 400 is a solid choice if you're looking for reliability. It’s much like choosing a reliable Ford over some flashy, unproven startup—it just works when you need it to. Budget-friendly, yet surprisingly high quality.
If we were to take that approach instead... cx430

Look, you should be able to run just about anything. This isn't some budget laptop meant for checking emails; it’s a real machine. Just keep your expectations realistic for something like Crysis 3—which is basically the gold standard for hardware stress tests. You won't be bragging about cranking every single setting to Ultra while maintaining triple-digit frame rates, but you'll absolutely be able to play with solid graphics and a smooth experience.

A graphics card can be rated at 3850 or 3870; you really need to consult something more precise, like Everest Ultimate, to get the actual data. speccy Even software like HWMonitor will give you an accurate reading on this. But honestly? It’s just a band-aid for a much deeper issue. $67

Scott Mendoza88 said:I have an Intel Core i7-4790K. 9590 I've got a Corsair 8GB kit running at 1600 MHz paired with a 550W Cooler Master power supply.

I can't make heads or tails of that. What are you trying to say? 😲

A bit off-topic, but what motherboard are you running, and are you using liquid cooling?
It would have been much simpler for you to just go with the Intel Core i7-4790K.

Sam Rodriguez55 said:Here is the updated build featuring the beefier power supply and cooler.

- AMD FX-Series X8 8320 CPU (3.5GHz, 16MB, 125W, AM3+)
- Cooler Master mid tower case, black
- Cooler Master Hyper 212 120mm fan
- MSI MAG B550 motherboard
- Adata DDR3 8GB 1600MHz, AD3U1600C2G11-R
- Kingston V300 120GB SATA SSD
- Western Digital 500GB, 7200rpm, 32MB
- EVGA SuperNOVA 550W PSU, 80+ Silver
- EVGA SuperNOVA cluster CPU cooler, 120mm fan, Twister Bearing Technology
- EVGA GeForce RTX Series
- Seagate BarraCuda SATA optical drive
- Dell UltraSharp 23" LED Monitor
- Razer BlackWidow USB gaming keyboard
- Noctua M401R mouse, black
- Creative Pebble 2.0 speakers, black

You have two different CPU coolers listed here.

Are you kidding me?

[IMAGE REMOVED]

Timothy Fisher79 said:Uzishop operates strictly as an online retailer. You order your components, pay up, and then wait about five days for them to arrive at their warehouse before they ship everything to your house. They don't offer PC building services like
others do.

What are you even talking about? 🤷 They definitely offer assembly services, just like Best Buy does.

But Uzishop isn't cheap enough right now to make waiting for them to open worth the hassle.

That's a pretty mediocre setup 😬

- For a 4-core gaming rig (plus those extra parts), a GTX 650 is just way too weak.
- Honestly, the Corsair VS series is some of the biggest junk this company has ever produced. The components inside are cheap, which might be fine for this specific build, but you can find much better power supplies for that kind of money.
- Buying a Zalman cooler is just throwing money away. You don't really need an aftermarket cooler for that CPU—even though Haswell runs a bit hotter—the stock one does the job just fine.
- If you're shopping at Micro Center, you can grab an i5-4440 for less than what you'd pay for the 4430.

Everyone thinks they can build a PC, but it’s simple: just look at the price tag. The numbers don't lie. 😬

Nicholas Fox3 said:Well, here's the deal:
I don't actually have a case yet, but a buddy of mine is going to give me one, and he mentioned everything I need should fit in there without any issues, haha. The drive is definitely SATA. As for payment, I'll mostly be using cash, though I guess I wouldn't rule out using a card if needed, but let's just plan on cash for now.
I live right outside of Tampa (near Castel).
And hey, thanks so much for all the suggestions so far! 😁

Sent from Nokia 3310

Just a heads up, if you go with an AMD case, make sure it supports ATX motherboards.

Robert Rodriguez2 said:You basically just insulted the boss and the whole precinct 3.1 miles at once... if I were you, I’d just go with that first AMD build 🧐
. . You picked everything right... you aren't cheapening any single part, which is the 👍 key
. Maybe just swap in an XFX 450W instead of the Corsair or even what 😬 suggested from Silverstone.

I read somewhere that they aren't even stocking them anymore, and they were actually pulled from the AMD website today.

Drew Sanchez82



😁Here are two paths you can take based on your preferences.

AMD Build (Overclocking focused)

1 x CORSAIR CX Series 430W, 80+ Bronze, EPS12V v2.3, 80+
1 x TOSHIBA 500GB, 7200rpm, SATA 6 Gb/s, 32MB, DT01ACA050
1 x AMD FX-Series X6 6300 3.5GHz, 14MB, 95W, AM3+, FD6300WMHK
1 x Kingston DDR3 4GB (1x4GB), 1600MHz, CL9, Hyper X, KHX1600C9D3B1/
1 x MSI R9 270 GAMING 2GB GDDR5 256bit + Battlefield 4, 28nm
1 x ZALMAN CNPS 5X, socket 775/1155/1156/AM2/AM2/AM3
1 x ASUS M5A97 R2.0, AM3, AM3+, AMD 970, SB950, BUS 5200 MHz, DDR3

$1338Admin, they can just pick up another 4GB of RAM later on.

Intel Option

1 x CORSAIR CX Series 430W, 80+ Bronze, EPS12V v2.3, 80+
1 x TOSHIBA 500GB, 7200rpm, SATA 6 Gb/s, 32MB, DT01ACA050
1 x Kingston DDR3 4GB (1x4GB), 1600MHz, CL9, Hyper X, KHX1600C9D3B1/
1 x MSI R9 270 GAMING 2GB GDDR5 256bit + Battlefield 4, 28nm
1 x Intel Core i5-3350P 3.1GHz (Max Turbo FQ 3.3 GHz), 6MB
1 x MSI H61M-P20-G3, Socket 1155, CPU: Sandy Bridge, Intel H61

$1331

If you want 8GB of RAM right out of the gate (note this uses a slightly weaker GPU than the R9 270):

1 x CORSAIR CX Series 430W, 80+ Bronze, EPS12V v2.3, 80+
1 x Intel Core i5-4440 (3.10GHz, 1MB, 6MB, 84W, 1150) Box
1 x Asrock H81M-DGS - Intel H81, M-ATX, dual Channel 2 xDDR3 - 1600
1 x Sapphire R7 260X 2GB GDDR5 OC, 2GB GDDR5 128bit, 28nm
1 x WD 1TB HDD, Corsair CX500, 1000 GB, SATA3, 64 MB, 3.5", 7200rpm
1 x Kingston DDR3 8GB (1x8GB), HyperX Blue, 1600MHz, CL10

$1336

Your games will load significantly faster if you install them on an SSD. Beyond that, you won't notice much of a difference in actual gameplay performance (unless you're playing something like STALKER). Generally speaking, though, it'll make your whole PC feel much snappier.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FQpiZ44GyYU

What kind of usable parts do you have on hand right now (like a case or maybe a SATA HDD)? We could potentially mix and match some of those with new and used components... Also, what other budget-friendly shops are available around here in the States?

For instance, if you're planning to drop in a graphics card later that pulls about 75-100W, you don't need an overkill power supply—just something that isn't total junk.

Gerald Campbell65 said:That’s a bit outside my budget right now. My plan was to pick up a build around 329 miles and then upgrade it later.

Think about grabbing something with integrated graphics (like a quad) and 4GB of RAM, then just drop in a decent graphics card and some extra RAM whenever you have the cash.

You should probably look for something better. (By the way, you always get more bang for your buck if you just build a custom rig component by component). This listing doesn't even specify what you're actually getting.
Since they announced Watch Dogs requires at least an older quad-core CPU, the real question is how it’s going to handle a dual-core setup.

Minimum specs:
OS: Windows Vista SP2 64, Windows 7 SP1 64, Windows 8 64
Processor: Intel Core 2 quad Q8400 @ 2.66Ghz or AMD Phenom ii x4 940 @ 3.0Ghz
RAM: 6 GB
Graphics: 1024 VRAM DirectX 11 with shader model 5.0
Sound card: DirectX 9 compatible sound card

Recommended specs:
Processor: Core i7 3770 @ 3.5Ghz or AMD FX-8350 @ 4.0Ghz
RAM: 8 GB
Graphics: 2048 VRAM DirectX 11 with shader model 5.0 or higher
Sound card: Surround sound 5.1 capable sound card

Supported graphics cards at launch:
Nvidia GeForce GTX460 or Better, GT500, GT600, GT700 series
AMD Radeon HD5850 or Better, HD6000, HD7000, R7 and R9 series
Intel Iris Pro hd 5200.

Judging by that GTX 460, I’d suggest aiming for at least an HD7770 if you want to run next-gen games at a decent level.

Look, if you compare places like Micro Center or Discount24—where individual items are often slightly cheaper than Best Buy or Micro Center's online store—it all evens out once you factor in a single overpriced item plus shipping fees. For instance, take Micro Center; they charge three separate handling fees (one for the case, one for the monitor, and one for the box of boxes), so by the end, the total price ends up being roughly the same, maybe off by a few bucks either way. It basically doesn't matter where you buy from. That’s assuming we ignore those unreliable sites that are currently down or the sketchy shops that might give you a headache. Even then, they aren't always the better deal since their prices fluctuate constantly, much like how Newegg handles things sometimes.

On top of that, there's the practical side: a specific shop might just be out of stock on what you need, or someone might prefer certain payment terms, or perhaps a location is just more convenient to visit on a whim.

It’s a huge advantage being able to ditch any cables you don't actually need.

Otherwise, your PC isn't going to be a massive power hog, so you could probably go with something more budget-friendly, like a CX430. If you're living in a major city like Chicago, you can find plenty of local shops that are much cheaper than Best Buy—places like Micro Center or even some smaller independent computer retailers.