Honestly, you’ve got a motherboard that's way too weak for overclocking an 8-core chip (it's just an entry-level B350, plus it lacks VRM cooling), so you really should have gone with something more robust. That said, even if you manually set it to 3.6GHz, it would likely run just fine enough.
There’s no such thing as an R9 290 with only 2GB of VRAM, so you're likely looking at a 270 instead. If that's the case, it actually performs better than a 6870—roughly on par with an RX 560, though just a step below a GTX 1050 ti.
It’s roughly twice as slow as an NVIDIA GeForce GTX, though that varies depending on the task. If you're comparing it to an NVIDIA GeForce GTX, it’s actually about three times slower. Still, it’s going to be significantly more powerful than your GT 710—by several multiples, at least—so if that card is useless to you, 🤷 In more demanding titles, the gap widens even further because that 1GB VRAM limit acts as a massive bottleneck for modern hardware.
Look, if you're eyeing high-end gaming laptops north of $1,000 $0.00, you're probably overpaying. You can almost always build a much more powerful desktop setup—monitor and all—for significantly less cash. Plus, those laptops lose their resale value faster than you can blink. But, if your goal is strictly heavy-duty gaming, the GPU is the one component that really matters.
I see there’s a laptop with an RTX 3060 for $2400 and up... click
Now, this specific model is a step up from the standard versions; it features a high refresh rate screen, a beefier processor, and a combo of NVMe SSD plus HDD storage. You really need to decide if that extra hardware is worth it for you. An RTX 3060 isn't exactly a powerhouse designed for ultra-high refresh rates, unless we're talking about titles like League of Legends or CS:GO, which are usually what people are aiming for when they buy these types of monitors.
For most of those games, you’re looking at a good or even excellent experience (though GTA V won't hit max settings), but honestly, it wouldn't hurt to throw in some more RAM. BTW, I'm moving this over to the GPU recommendations thread.
Those used cards offer about the same punch as a new RX 560, and they actually outperform an NVIDIA GeForce GTX 🤷. The new card is definitely the most efficient option and comes with a solid three-year warranty. As for how long it’ll last—look, there are people out there upgrading much beefier setups than this $1333... Honestly, even here in the States, it's become totally standard for gamers to drop a small fortune just on a GPU, though you obviously need a decent rest of the rig to actually support it. It all boils down to your specific criteria—what games you play, what settings you want, and your target FPS or monitor refresh rate. You won't be getting two or three years of smooth sailing once the heavy hitters start dropping. Plus, you wouldn't be doing anything wrong by picking up a faster CPU or more RAM if you're eyeing those demanding new releases. But for casual gaming? These are some of the first truly serious GPUs worth considering. Everything is relative. I’m running something similar to what you mentioned, actually slightly weaker (an NVIDIA GeForce GTX), and I mostly stick to AAA titles from around 2012 or 2013. I occasionally dip into newer stuff, but usually just lighter indie titles or less demanding games, and everything runs flawlessly. I'm not saying you can't play modern AAA titles, but you'll have to make compromises—lower settings, lower frame rates, and so on.
To be honest, it’s not exactly a massive steal since the total ends up being over $500, and you can grab a similar SSD for just north of $67 these days. Still, it’s a decent option if you just need a small SSD.
George Taylor28 said:@Timothy Kim60/">@@Timothy Kim60 Thanks. Based on the price, I might actually be able to swing that recommendation. I'm not entirely sure what "low profile" entails, though the max length is listed at 315mm. I'm also unsure if they accounted for any potential chips, resistors, or other electronic protrusions on the motherboard.. I don't have any plans to upgrade my PC anytime soon. It’s a bit of a hassle to open the case right now to check the power supply, but I know I didn't skimp on it a few years back. (Though that might not mean much now). I saw a GTX 780 in a listing earlier, which was priced similarly to this one in the store?
"Low profile" refers to the height—length isn't the issue click, but you don't need that.
As for the GTX 780, that's older tech and pulls a lot of power. Stick to what I suggested—the GTX 1060 3GB with a year or two of warranty left (if not more).
To would require at least this version "3d active fan". In my opinion, this model should theoretically include it too, but there's absolutely nothing on the official website stating it actually features that 0db mode .
System RAM and video VRAM are two completely different things; they operate independently of one another.
From what I can see, you don't actually need a low-profile GPU for your setup—those are usually reserved for small-form-factor HTPCs—which is a huge plus because it keeps your options wide open. If you're looking to buy something new, your best bet would probably be this. It’s nothing groundbreaking by modern standards, given how much tech has evolved, but it’s a solid, reliable card. Honestly, if you went any higher, your current processor would just end up bottlenecking the whole system. Compared to what you're running now, this thing is practically a spaceship from another dimension. That said, if you have plans to upgrade your entire platform (CPU, motherboard, RAM) anytime soon, you could definitely aim higher—just make sure to double-check your power supply wattage first.
If you're shopping the used market, the GTX 1060 3GB is currently the sweet spot for value. You can find them hovering around $110-$433, and I even read about someone snagging one for $300 with two years of warranty left. Your CPU might hold it back slightly depending on what game you're playing, but again, if an upgrade to your main rig is on the horizon, the sky's the limit...
My CPU is sitting at about $67 right now, which is definitely more expensive than it ought to be click (you probably just caught them on a bad day for pricing). As for the SSD, absolutely—though like I mentioned before, it’s a shame to pass up faster, smaller NVMe drives, especially if this one comes with a solid 5-year warranty. The cooler is this better option, it’s cheaper, and it includes an AM4 bracket. Everything else looks fine. If you really want to push for a better motherboard, try this or this
Basically, looking at the catalog, this click is his replacement. Those last two digits actually indicate the model year. Just a heads-up: stay away from edigital when you're shopping.