I'm not sure. If I thought it was a CPU bottleneck, I might suggest looking there, but that doesn't seem to be the case. Regarding those 6+2 pins, those two are supposedly just ground, so they shouldn't affect anything. Still, if you can borrow a different power supply just to test it out...
Which motherboard did you end up getting? You should check which specific slot you have it plugged into on the board.
EDIT
I did a bit of digging online. Apparently, one person dealt with this exact issue by doing a clean reinstall of Windows. Another person suspected their power supply, though that hasn't been confirmed yet.
That person might just be running a different version of the monitoring software, a different driver, or they might have even overclocked their system.
Why make this so complicated? Just pick a benchmark, find the stock performance numbers in a review, run it yourself—just make sure you're using the same versions and drivers—and compare your results. That’s really all there is to it. You judge performance based on actual results (like FPS in games or benchmark scores), not by looking at some wattage readings in a third-party app.
Your monitoring software is only showing you the power draw for the actual GPU chip itself, so it isn't accounting for the VRMs, fans, or other components. That’s perfectly normal. If you were actually running into power supply issues, you wouldn't just see lower FPS—your whole PC would likely shut down or crash entirely.
I don't know off the top of my head, but I'm pretty sure it's standard for those two pins to show up as "empty." https://forums.hexus.net/graphics-ca...s-psu-end.html
Regarding your FPS, double-check that you haven't overestimated what the GPU can handle (like cranking MSAA to the max or upscaling the resolution to some crazy level). If I recall correctly, your native resolution in Battlefield 1 was set to 42% scale, so make sure you didn't get tripped up by that setting.
There’s just not enough info here. Which i5 generation are we talking about, and what's the specific GPU? Generally speaking, if it's still running a 5xxx series, the answer is an immediate no—that hardware is ancient. Also, what kind of games are you actually looking to play?
dragon1978
Maybe something slightly north of $667, $733 like (excluding the monitor)
That's a Maxwell architecture card. In terms of raw gaming performance, you're looking at something roughly equivalent to a GTX 1070—it might even pull ahead in specific tasks thanks to the VRAM, but keep in mind it’s an older design and isn't nearly as efficient. Honestly, I’d use the going rate for used GTX 1070s as your benchmark, and maybe price yours a bit lower if you're looking for a quick sale. You might see $833 (I've spotted some GTX 1070s around those prices that still carry a warranty). Just make sure to explicitly mention it's a Maxwell card when you list it; you don't want any headaches later on if someone gets confused by NVIDIA's cryptic naming schemes
The new CPU should arrive today $0.60, though the motherboard isn't currently in stock. You can find the K5 going for about $400, so you really need to score yours at least 20% cheaper than that to make it worth your while
It’s tough to pin down an exact number, but it definitely wouldn't top $2,000. Honestly, maybe I'm overestimating there. If you look at the market today, you can pick up a brand-new laptop featuring an i3 processor (which actually matches that i7 in terms of having 2 cores and 4 threads), 8GB of DDR4 RAM, and an MX130 or MX150 graphics card for somewhere around $3,600-$233, though you're looking at a 15.6" screen. The big plus is that it's brand new and comes with a full manufacturer's warranty...
Sure you can, but I’m more interested in how you handled those specific steps—when you went to reinstall macOS, did you remember to adjust the boot order so the USB takes priority? And was the drive actually bootable (did you use a tool like Rufus or something similar to flash the installer onto the USB)? Also, did you catch any bad sectors once you ran scans with utilities like CrystalDiskInfo or HD Tune?
It isn't strictly necessary, but I personally prefer downloading everything fresh directly from the manufacturer's official website (since Windows usually just grabs the latest WHQL driver for your GPU and calls it a day). In any case, I’d recommend updating your BIOS—especially if you're running an AMD Ryzen 5 2600 on a B350 motherboard—as well as grabbing the chipset drivers from either the AMD site or the motherboard manufacturer's page.
First off, this setup is totally unbalanced (you've got two RX 580s paired with an entry-level Pentium), and honestly, it looks like it was probably used as a mining rig. You'd be much better off putting that kind of cash toward something brand new.