On consoles, sports titles typically run at a smooth 60 FPS and usually get the most polished versions first. On PC, you’re often stuck waiting for those ports to finally arrive—for instance, we didn't even see the PC version of the latest flagship soccer title catch up to the console release until this year. So, if your gaming life revolves strictly around sports sims, stick with a console; but for everything else, PC is the way to go. That said, even with a decent mid-range setup like a GTX 1050 2, you can still play sports games quite comfortably alongside a bit of everything else.
It isn't quite accurate to say the 560 is twice as powerful as the GTX 460 (mind you, make sure you aren't looking at an old GTX 460). The RX 460 and 560 both run on the same Polaris 11 chip; the 560 simply has all its cores unlocked, making it just a few percentage points faster overall.
Unfortunately not, though things are looking a bit more stable now.
I'm not sure what kind of budget you're working with, but you'll get much better value out of three specific options: a GTX 1050 Ti (provided it stays under $433), a GTX 1060 6GB (ranging from about $700 up to $833), or a GTX 1080 (roughly $1500).
With 4GB of RAM, I get this red warning right at launch saying there isn't enough memory. I just hit "ignore," and then once the game and my entire system—including Afterburner and everything else—are running, the total usage peaks at about 2.7GB. 🤣
My CPU shows up as yellow, likely indicating it's a bit weak, but it should be able to manage.
I just knocked out about 5 or 6 matches. To be clear, the game doesn't actually require 8GB of RAM—my total system usage plus the game itself peaks at around 2.7GB—but it definitely demands more CPU power. My AMD Phenom just isn't cutting it if I want a steady 60 FPS; even at 3.1GHz, the load sits above 90%. I'm averaging roughly 45 FPS on max settings, though it frequently dips below 30. With my HD7850 2GB, the GPU load stays around 60%. If I drop everything to Low, I can hit 50-60 FPS. Once I finally upgrade to a Ryzen, I think I'll be set—hopefully, that'll lock me right at 60 FPS.
Regarding those browsing lags—you should check if your system is thermal throttling, which means the clock speeds are dropping below nominal levels due to overheating. You can monitor the clock speeds using HWMonitor, or run a stress test via the clock tab in AIDA64 to see how it holds up under pressure. If you find it is indeed throttling, a fresh application of thermal paste should fix it.
Also, make sure to verify the health of your Seagate BarraCuda by running a diagnostic tool like HD Tune to check the drive's health status and perform an error scan.
Yeah, I’ve been digging through some benchmarks. While it might not hit a rock-solid 60fps across the board, there’s absolutely no reason it should be stuttering—especially if you’re running at 720p with the settings dialed down. It should be smooth sailing at that resolution.
It occurs to me that you might be talking about online matchmaking issues. If that's the case, it isn't your hardware's fault; apparently, their servers are a total mess right now (laggy shooting, endless queue times). Your best bet is probably just waiting for them to drop a patch.
That 7870 is a solid choice for $133. It’s definitely a noticeable step up from yours, though I'm not entirely certain if you'll be able to maintain max settings at 1920x1080 while keeping a steady 60fps lock. If you want to play it safe, the R9 280 (hd7950) would be the more reliable bet here.
Why not just try a clean OS reinstall? The idea that the GPU and the power supply are somehow incompatible is a bit of a stretch. It’s either a software glitch or one specific component is failing if we're looking at hardware issues.
1400MHz is the throttling clock speed. If your temperature looks fine right now—and 59°C is perfectly normal—then you shouldn't be running at that frequency. You can verify this using HWMonitor by going to the stress test tools to monitor your clock speeds and temperatures. However, the second and most critical issue here is that your motherboard doesn't officially support any processors rated above 95W:
This is actually expected, because frankly, the voltage regulation on this board is garbage. It might be a direct result of trying to run an unsupported 125W processor, which could also explain why your multiplier is stuck at 7 instead of 17. Who even put this system together for you?
A boot loop can be triggered by a single faulty component or even something external plugged into the system—it actually happened to me once because of a faulty keyboard. Of course, the power supply could be the culprit, but from what I gather, everything seems to run fine when you have that one specific hard drive unplugged, right?
The 550W model has a decent price point, but if we're comparing it directly to the 850W version, logic dictates that the 550W should be even more affordable.
It’s impossible to identify the specific motherboard model when this is all I have to go on. It just lists "H000052420" as the part number, but that won't get me anywhere here or on any official CPU compatibility list if I actually knew the real name.