First, run some diagnostics on your RAM. Check your drive health using HD Tune or similar utility software. Try performing a clean install of different graphics drivers. You might also want to try disabling "Cool and Quiet" in your BIOS settings.
At this point, it could be anything from a faulty power supply to various software conflicts—even a full Windows reinstallation might be necessary.
The AMD Ryzen 5 1600 2 x is currently the most budget-friendly option at Micro Center, and pairing it with a B350 motherboard is easily your best value move right now. Just keep in mind you'll need some DDR4 RAM to get up and running. What kind of total budget are we working with here?
Look, on paper, this monitor is top-tier. The real issue is the price tag being driven up by G-Sync technology. If you want a smarter move, FreeSync is the way to go—it’s a much more budget-friendly alternative. That said, high-end Intel graphics cards just aren't hitting the mark this year, plus there's the big question of whether you can even find them at a decent price given how much the crypto miners have messed with the market.
Honestly, 4GB is plenty for about 99% of games out there. It’s really only those newer titles with x64 architecture that can actually pull more than 2GB of RAM—and that’s just for the game's .exe, you still need at least another 1GB just to keep the OS running smoothly.
I used to run an HD 6450—actually, I still have it, though it's going in the trash once my new build is ready—and I managed to get plenty of games running on a Radeon HD 5450. You'll only see FPS drops that bad during chapters 3 and 4 of The Witcher 1, mainly because the optimization is just non-existent. Don't bother looking at the GeForce GT 710 either; it’s total junk, just forget about it.
If you aren't sweating the budget, just grab a used quad-core for the 775 platform along with a low profile 1050ti. Anything listed below that is basically a paperweight. And don't even bother looking at a GeForce GT 710; you won't see any meaningful difference compared to a Radeon HD 5450. It's just throwing money down the drain.
Somewhere there's a price range above $200, but anything under $667 works for everyone. Honestly, you really need to check the current market value to see what you can actually get for it
You don't need any of that bloatware. You probably have the driver CD/DVD that came with the printer, right? And if not, you can always just grab them from the manufacturer's official website for your specific model
Honestly, this is probably the absolute worst time you could ever pick to buy a graphics card (at least in my experience). Once things finally settle down—whenever that may be—you'll actually be able to snag something in the $200-$300 range that offers solid price-to-performance value.
If it's a Zalman cooler, I can push the clock speeds up to 4-4.2GHz (just shoot me a message).
Exactly. Just grab either of those two—just make sure to double-check the CPU support list on the motherboard manufacturer's website for the necessary BIOS update. If you’re planning on overclocking, you can go with the cheaper option since they're essentially the same architecture (similar to how a Phenom 955 and 965 behave). I really hope you aren't still using a stock Cooler. Try to flip your current one for $100 and you'll have an upgrade for just a few hundred bucks.
Down the road, once that CPU is installed, you could eventually pair it with a GPU like an AMD Radeon RX 580 or an NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060 6GB.
Look, you have to understand that you won't see those gains because the CPU would just bottleneck it. Even as things stand, your CPU is preventing you from seeing the full potential of your GPU in quite a few games.