It’s impossible to find an American build at a 24-month installment plan unless you're looking at high-interest credit
1 x Intel Core i5-6402P (2.8GHz, 6MB, LGA1151) box 1 x Asrock LGA1151 H110M-DGS 1 x Crucial DRAM 8GB DDR4 2133 MT/s (PC4-17000) CL15 SR 1 x HDD Seagate Barracuda 1TB, 64MB, 7200rpm, High-Performance 1 x Cooler Master Hyper 212, USB3.0 black, 3x120mm 1 x XFX 450W PSU Pro Series CoreEdition 80 1 x XFX Video Card NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060 4GB/256bit, 1266MHz/7000MHz, PCI-E 3.0 x16, HDMI, DVI, 3xDP, DD 2X cooler (Double Slot), Backplate, Walmart
Total: $1828
It's a future-proof option
Alternatively, just wait until the Newegg inventory refreshes. For this kind of money, they usually have the version with 8GB of VRAM, and the Intel Core i5-6400 is actually slightly cheaper there anyway.$33
You can actually find them in parts of Germany for under $400 at a few different spots... It just goes to show that some pretty massive discounts are definitely on the table.
Personally, I’d probably aim for an LGA 1151 socket setup paired with some DDR3 memory—maybe run an i5-6400.
Take a scenario where you have four RAM slots available. click ...or something like that (I think they're closed this week). CPU.
That should bring it just under the mark. $667, na $333 Whatever profit you have left over from the sale—maybe around $100 or so—I’d suggest putting that right back into the build. $100), mbo (cca $83I need help with my GPU (roughly... $150At these price points, there shouldn't be any trouble moving them. It basically means... $667Plus, at that price point, you can actually snag even... ovo And you’ve got a massive upgrade on your hands!
Honestly, you really ought to pick up a slightly better motherboard for processors like those. Something like the GA-970A-DS3P would be much more appropriate. In my opinion, it’s just bad planning to head out in early 2017 looking for a motherboard that doesn't even support SATA 3.0 (6Gb/s) when you're trying to run an SSD.
That’s definitely a step up in terms of power supply.
Your GTA V performance is hitting a wall because of that processor. Those Athlon chips aren't exactly top-tier performers, but they can still get the job done if you push them.
It’s honestly a mistake to try and compare console hardware directly to desktop PCs. They operate on completely different principles; developers squeeze every last drop of performance out of consoles by optimizing specifically for that fixed hardware, whereas PC gaming is more of a "whatever works" situation where they just throw a port at you and hope for the best. Like I mentioned earlier, I’m leaning much more toward that Skylake i3 route—it's more budget-friendly, generally superior for gaming, offers a much better upgrade path, and sits on a newer platform. However, if you are truly planning to stick with that specific processor for several years without ever moving on from an i3 or a Core i5-3570, then sure, go with the Core i5-3570 because it will likely hold its own better during heavy workloads and benchmarks.
You don't really need those games for this setup. Honestly, following crimsonstag84's advice, I’d ditch the HDD entirely and swap in an SSD—whether you go with 128GB or bump it up to 240-275GB depends on how much extra you want to spend beyond $1333. Alternatively, if you want to stick within $1333, just grab the cheapest RX 460 you can find with a 3-year warranty (depending on which retailer you hit up). Now, the 1050Ti is undeniably the superior GPU, but it is definitely over 30% more expensive
Alex Ramos2 said:Which shops actually have good stock? So far, all I know is government.gov Will waiting two months really make a difference if I'm not planning on buying any top-tier high-end components?
Old monitor doesn't have HDMI. I wasn't expecting massive savings. Regardless, I'd rather buy something slightly more expensive and add a monitor like crimsonstag84 suggested, maybe 24" or larger. The longer the config lasts without needing an upgrade, the better.
It doesn't matter. As long as you have DVI, HDMI, or even DisplayPort—just make sure you aren't stuck relying solely on VGA.
It makes absolutely no sense. It’s the exact same processor. Just bump up the clock speed by a few hundred MHz in the BIOS and boom—you basically have an Intel Core i5-3570K.
In general, you won't see much difference on that specific chip, but those $10 are absolutely worth the extra investment without a second thought.
GTX 1060 6GB vs. 2GB VRAM Benchmark - Does more actually mean better?
The variance is mostly just statistical noise—which is why you'll occasionally see the 2GB version labeled as "faster"—but you can see a clear gap in Shadow of Mordor, and a massive one in Doom among the titles tested. In my opinion, both games serve as excellent indicators of where VRAM consumption is headed in the future.
Location doesn't really matter here; they offer free assembly (and in many cases, free shipping, which usually runs about $5 per package anyway). You can also pay via Cash on Delivery
You hit the nail on the head regarding Custom Builds vs. Pre-built PCs
Meanwhile, I have a few other questions for you.
- Does your old monitor have a DVI or an HDMI port? - Are you looking to blow your entire budget? What you listed there is roughly the cost of four large pizzas plus a decent mid-range setup (say, an i3 paired with a 1050Ti), though apparently Modded Skyrim is quite demanding. If you bump that budget up by about $50, you could get something significantly more serious (like an i5 and a GTX 480 with 8GB of RAM).
What exactly do you mean by "OEM"? Are you suggesting it's some freebie tossed in with a case? OEM just stands for Original Equipment Manufacturer—every single power supply has an OEM behind it. Regardless, you should really check the label on the unit for the actual model number.
Sure, a solid alternative would be the GTX 1060 6GB since it draws less power, but if your current power supply is a Shroteks, I wouldn't recommend sticking with it even for that card.