Just grab whatever cheapest i5 you can find for that 1150 socket, like an Intel Core i5 4440 or an i5 4430. As for the GPU, it works fine, though it isn't really worth the money here when you compare it to the RX 460, which stays under $333. Plus, you can actually unlock almost any 460 with just a click
If you weren't doing what you're doing, I'd tell you to ditch the SSD and put that money toward a better GPU instead. But given your situation, you really have to weigh your priorities.
Brian Campbell36 said:Sure, I’ve seen those stories. We can talk when that GTX 1060 starts hitting 2100 MHz like this MSI GTX 1060 6GB Gaming X.
You’ve basically proven you don't have a clue what you're talking about. To put it in perspective, saying that is like saying, "Once this apple turns yellow like this pear, then we'll finally have a real apple."
By the way, while you're busy attacking AMD, plenty of people are actually pointing the finger at Nvidia lately—they're constantly pushing hotfix after hotfix because of all the driver issues users have been complaining about.
You’ve got nothing to lose—just tell them exactly what you told me here. It is simply not normal for that GPU to be dropping down to 30fps on low settings, especially since you're running an i7. If I were you, I'd try rolling back to some drivers from July or September; Nvidia has been pushing out a ton of updates lately to patch various bugs. If it still isn't performing correctly after that, take it back to the shop. I highly doubt you're the first person to run into these kinds of issues.
Gary Anderson38, if you're dealing with constant freezing like that, you might want to look into a warranty claim. Some GTX cards using Micron memory have been notorious for issues like flickering or total system freezes, which led vendors to release BIOS updates—though even those don't always cut it. I know some guys over on the PC forums found that even after updating, the problems persisted at stock settings, so they just ended up RMAing the cards for replacements...
Thomas Wells5
Does the power supply lack a 6+2 pin connector? And let's be clear, I'm not talking about the EPS connector for the CPU; don't mix those two up. If that's the case, just head down to a local computer shop and grab an adapter.
H1Z1 is actually a mod for Call of Duty, so you’d be much smarter going with Intel since single-core performance is everything there. For the other games you mentioned, it won't matter as much. Just Google IPC (instructions per cycle/clock) to see why.
If budget isn't an issue for you, you might want to grab a Zalman Z3; it comes with three fans included.
Let's say you drop about $800 $300 on a new GPU. For instance, if you go with an Inno3D iChill starting at $1767 for an NVIDIA GTX 1080 or better. Then, you might spend roughly $1000 on a budget 28" 4K TN panel (though honestly, a high-quality 1440p setup is usually the smarter move), or maybe somewhere in the $5,000-$2000 range for a decent 32"+ IPS/PLS 4K monitor. That said, 4K resolution can actually be overkill even for an NVIDIA GTX 1080 in certain titles...
Brian James4 said:You would never guess that an NVIDIA GTX 1080 actually draws less power than this. What does that mean for the motherboard?
It would take you two seconds of Googling to find out the wattage.😁 Basically, the GPU power draw is similar, and you still have plenty of headroom anyway.
Don't worry about the motherboard; just grab the GPU.
Other suppliers have solid pricing. That GPU is a bit overkill considering your current CPU, but like you mentioned, once you upgrade the processor, you'll finally see its full potential.
Those first two options are definitely lower-tier products. While an EVGA 80 Plus Bronze is decent enough, this EVGA SuperNOVA offers much better value—it’s arguably higher quality and packs more punch for the price.
Prices tend to stay pretty much constant regardless of the season (at least here in the States), though you'll occasionally see minor dips as products get older and more outdated
I’m thinking more along the lines of whether it actually fits on a specific desk or workspace. If you aren't dealing with tight spatial constraints, those extra few centimeters don't really matter. You have plenty of "boxier" cases that support mATX boards (like the Fortron GMB0101, RAIJINTEK STYX, RAIJINTEK Aeneas, Corsair 240, etc.), which gives you much more breathing room regarding form factors. On the other hand, ITX builds tend to be pricier and often come with fewer features overall.
If you ask me, you should stick with at least an mATX build. It'll save you from unnecessary headaches down the road if those extra few centimeters aren't a dealbreaker for you.
