Looks like yours is out of reach. Honestly, why even sweat it? If it won't happen, it won't happen. Maybe give it a shot with clockgen or try setting the FSB manually
wiredmarlin5, don't take this the wrong way—your score is decent, but there’s definitely room to squeeze out more performance. I know you've got what it takes.
It looks like you just hit a wall with the silicon lottery; Mema is fine, the motherboard is fine, you just didn't get lucky. Honestly, if you're pulling a stable 3.85GHz at a relatively low voltage (even with that vdrop), you might want to consider running it 24/7.😁
🤷 I mean, if he pulls that and messes up other voltages too, we might have a problem. At least there's a warranty, though you'll probably just need a rubber band to wipe away the mess.
wiredmarlin5 said:First off, are you actually sure you've got the right stylus? Are you positive it's the exact same board? Are you even poking the right spot? And finally, do you have any clue what the hell you're doing?
If the answer to all that is "yes"—then give Razer a call. 😁
Personally, I don't mess around with my gear unless I absolutely have to. 😍
The stylus is B3; it’s clearly labeled right there. Even though a stylus is just a stylus (no offense to them), it helps if it's softer, and a B3 is soft enough. As for Razer, they keep sending me different links—one time it looks like a DS3, the next it's a DS3-R. But the actual part matches up perfectly; there isn't any other difference. I've compared everything, and it's an exact match. We can just ignore that last question.😍
Once I actually get it screwed in, the voltages start bouncing between 1.072V and 1.056V while idling, even though the BIOS is set to its default 1.31250V.
Can someone please answer one very simple question for me: What the hell? (imagine a loud system beep right as you read that)
wiredmarlin5, help me out here.
EDIT: Okay, I just gave it a good scrub with some rubbing alcohol and now the voltages are back to normal—sitting at 1.280V at idle and 1.248V under load.
link I grabbed the B3, tipped the bin, and hunted down that resistor. (By the way, if anyone’s looking, it’s right next to the CPU fan connector.) Our little resistor here isn't exactly high-end gear, but it gets the job done. There’s a smaller one sitting right next to it; you actually need to tighten the larger one (which is pretty obvious from the photo).
Grabbed a screwdriver and tightened the smaller one 2-3 times! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!😲😲😲😲😲:e ek:
Everything looks solid—Intel Core 2 Duo E4500 running at default settings. Ran Prime95 and OCCT, and honestly, I've got nothing left to check. Voltage under load was sitting rock steady at 1.008V. It’s insane!😠 I immediately went back to undo whatever nonsense I'd done. The little jerk wiped the resistor clean, so now I'm going to give it a quick scrub with an eraser before tightening the larger one. Also, shout out to that legendary computer desk where you practically have to perform surgery just to plug or unplug anything.👎
If it won't happen, it won't happen.😍 Word is that even the new Intel Core 2 Duo E4400 and Intel Core 2 Duo E4500 won't push past 3.5 or 3.6GHz. You can crank the voltage up to the moon, but you aren't getting a single extra MHz out of them.
wiredmarlin5 said:You're hitting an FSB wall on that CPU, and you’ll need a motherboard that can handle around 500MHz to push through it. That wall is a common headache with all the Series 2 and 4 chips. Most Core 2 Duo E8400 models will breeze past 500MHz, and if you’ve got a solid enough board, those newer E8400s can even crack the 600MHz mark.🙂
I honestly wonder if they actually mean that the wall is an actual Northbridge wall.
The formula for BCLK is pretty straightforward: you take your default multiplier and divide it by your current multiplier, then multiply that whole mess by your FSB.
wiredmarlin5 said:I was messing around with the stock cooler and the clock speeds. I hit 3.65GHz at 1.48V... it’s not a bad result, but the temps are getting way too high to push it any further. 😢
EasyTune is actually pretty decent. 🙂
EasyTune is absolute madness—it’s such a killer program. Honestly, thank God they included an asynchronous mode; being able to crank up the FSB without dragging the memory along for the ride is a total game changer.👍
EDIT: What’s the max FSB?
EDIT 2: How are your voltages looking? Are you getting smooth increments up to 1.6V, or does it just jump straight to 1.8V and 2.0V after that?
Thomas Hill2 said:ASUS P5K-E/WIFI-AP motherboard (I might overclock it a bit, though I’m still weighing it up since this board is already an absolute beast)
darkowl72 said:Look, if you push a CPU the way this guy does, no game or app is ever going to touch its limits... he’s basically running it through a meat grinder compared to Orthos...
darkowl72, I assume you aren't actually mad about this quote.😉 Is there any truth to that? To me, it looks like it's 100% accurate regardless of the stress test used. Maybe in Orthos, you should set it to in-place large FFTs—like you would in Prime95—to hit peak heat and power draw. Then use small FFTs for maximum CPU strain. If that's the case, they actually beat out what this guy is doing.