Posts by Harold Lopez31

TAT stands for Intel Thermal Analysis Tool, if I had to guess, but that's my take

darkowl72 said:Plus, if he manages to push the FSB to 333—which is pretty likely with that board—well, you've got yourself a meme at 800MHz. 😉

With the MSI P35 and an AMD Athlon 64 X2, the processor is definitely the bottleneck here. And when you're aiming for 800MHz, there are way more ways to mix things up using a 266MHz FSB and a 2:3 ratio...

darkowl72 said:@ Harold Lopez31

The Gigabyte P35-DS3 (that’s the board I was talking about) handles SPD itself when you leave it on "Auto." I know firsthand because I actually own one. If you set it to, say, 9x300, the BIOS will pop up during POST and tell you the memory is running at 2.4. So, that's my experience with this specific board—I can't speak for others. Also, it’s pretty hard to brick this thing unless you start playing reckless games with voltages. If you push the settings too far, the machine just shuts down. Just turn it back on and it'll boot with default settings. That’s the built-in safety net with Gigabyte. And don't freak out if the PC suddenly cuts power during boot; just sit tight, don't touch anything, and it’ll cycle itself back up.

300 x 2.40 equals 720MHz. That’s a joke if your RAM is rated for 800MHz straight out of the box. In my opinion, leaving everything on "Auto" is a waste of time; you’re never going to get decent results compared to when you actually dial things in manually.

Modern motherboards and CPUs have plenty of safeguards nowadays. They'll usually revert to defaults if you go too aggressive with the settings (though if you really overdo it, you might still need to clear the CMOS).

George Ross41 said:It doesn't even move after... 22 minutes. If you want to try again, I couldn't find where the temp readout is in Orthus.

You need to let it run for a few hours. It takes about 20 minutes just for the temps to stabilize. Grab the core temp reading—or better yet, use RightMark CPU Utility.

Jason Hall18 said:Whoa... those numbers are getting pretty sketchy 😁
I read somewhere that this processor can hit about 3.0 GHz if you use the stock settings, but we'll see how it goes..
So, are you saying if I bump it up to 266x11, I should stick with 5-5-5-18? But if I just stay at my current frequency, I can drop down to 4-4-4-12?
In either scenario, can I crank the SPD up to at least 3?
Oh, one more thing... what temperature should I set as the "danger zone" in my BIOS to trigger an alarm?

Look, just push it to 266x11 or try 333x9. For the first option, set your SPD to 3 (2:3), and for the second, go with 2.40 (5:6). Keep the latencies at 5-5-5-15 for both, and leave the performance enhancement on standard. Don't mess with the voltages. And whatever you do, don't leave the SPD on "auto" like some people are suggesting here—if you do, it'll default to 4.00 automatically.

@vividhound19/">@@vividhound19

Your Intel is sitting at just 237MHz, while your memory is actually running at 569MHz. You should definitely be able to hit CL4 at stock settings. Try bumping the JEDEC up to at least 3.33 and set it to CL5.

You can push that Intel Core 2 Duo E4500 to 266x11 without breaking a sweat. Just set the JEDEC to 3 and CL5, and you’ll have a solid, reliable clock for 24/7 use.

Kyle Sanchez4 said:Here's a perfect example... when idle, my multiplier shows up as 6x, but once it actually starts working, it jumps to 11x.

MIT
Check your voltage in CPU-Z while it's sitting at 11x—do it once with EIST turned on and again with it turned off.

🙏 What voltage are you even running? Validation failed.

Michael Chavez said:Alright, I get most of what you're saying, but: 😁
3. Can you break down this latency thing a bit more for me? I get that it's basically the wait time between requesting a byte and actually getting it... plus some other stuff...
What do those specific numbers actually mean when you guys are talking about it?
5. Now, this part really flies over my head... 😁
6. Is that Intel thing referring to the BIOS?
I'm running Phoenix v1.40.... I tried hitting Ctrl and F1, but nothing happened...

3.Just read
5.CPU-Z
6.Intel is the brand

Maybe flashing the BIOS could do the trick🤷, though honestly, you're fine with just 2.2. My rig is running at 333x9 and I can't tell there's even a difference

The motherboard isn't exactly top-tier, no offense intended👍, but you should give Multi 10 a shot

What kind of motherboard are you running? Is that processor a 266x11

George Ross41 said:...For some reason, when I set it to 320 * 10 to hit 3.2GHz, Core Temp and Windows properties insist it's running at 351 * 10, or 3.51GHz... ...

Core Temp isn't showing 351x10; it’s actually reading 320x11. I think some of these programs just take the FSB and multiply it by the default multiplier—at least, that's my guess.

Now everyone's going to assume my Core i5-12400 is just cruising along at 333x10 on stock voltage. But man, after about an hour of heavy stress testing, the whole thing just crashes on me. And no, it's not because of the heat.

Is it actually worth going with 333x9 over 266x11 (let's ignore those tiny MHz differences for a second)? Does it cause a massive bottleneck on the main bus, or is the throughput actually there? Mema is running at 800MHz (Democratic Party 2.40 and 3.00)

Eric Myers73 said:I've got an E4500 overclocked to 2.97 GHz
memory is sitting at 833MHz
CPU temps are bouncing between 48 and 65 degrees Celsius,and I'm tracking everything through Sensorview.
I'm just using the stock cooler—is this temperature range okay?
And can my PC handle running at these settings long-term?
The board is a Gigabyte P35-DS3

What do you mean by "bouncing"? Either way, those temps don't look right; they seem a bit too high to me. You really ought to be hitting a solid 3GHz (mine runs at 333x9), so maybe grab CoreTemp (even if it doesn't give you the exact frequency)