Where exactly are we talking about? I've put together plenty of similar builds using that board before—never ran into any issues at all when it came to overclocking.
If you're really leaning into the overclocking route, I’d tweak things a bit more if I were in your shoes—here's how I'd beef it up:
Intel Core i5-2500K Spire Coolgate 2012 MSI Z77A-G45 Patriot Signature Blue 8GB SSD Intel 530 120 WD Blue 1TB SATA 3 Gigabyte GTX 650 1GB OC Samsung Wireless Smart Hub FSP Raider 550W 80+ Silver Zalman Z3 USB 3.0 ATX
$2027 - Micro Center (free assembly and shipping)
Basically, I bumped up the warranties, swapped in a better CPU cooler, and added an MSI motherboard—it's budget-friendly but honestly just a solid, high-quality choice.
It’s not just about how loud the cooler is—it’s also about whether it actually does its job and keeps things from overheating. In cases like this, you'll see a 750k or 760k idling at around 50C without any issues at all 😉
And why would anyone care if an XFX-ica is noisy? It's not like they're trying to fly a jet engine. Honestly, I don't get why Pluto is even looking at a T4 at that price point, but hey, whatever.
Shipping might be a bit of a hassle $27 if you aren't right here in the local metro area, since it'll probably end up coming in two separate packages.
X4 740 SPIRE KEPLER R2.0 AS ROCK FM2 A55 VG3 Patriot 4GB 1600 MHz Toshiba 500GB SATA 3 hard drive—3.5 inch. SAPPHIRE R7 260X 1GB BOOST Chicony HPA-400W Active ZALMAN T4 USB 3.0 MATX
$1003 Check out Futura IT—they’re doing free assembly and delivery right now.
Thinking about picking up a used SATA optical drive—you can usually snag one for around $15-$20 if you look on eBay or hit up a local thrift store. $17 Look, you don't really need it right this second—plus, upgrading now actually gives you some breathing room to beef up the rest of your components later. Just a heads-up though, Crysis 3 is such a beast when it comes to HW requirements that you shouldn't expect to just crank everything to max settings and call it a day.
An SSHD basically works by caching your most-used apps—so the more you run certain programs, the faster they’ll load. It's actually a 1TB HDD paired with an 8GB SSD, so you definitely won't be running out of space.
Honestly, looking at what you're doing, you don't really *need* a dedicated SSD since your tasks are pretty basic. When it comes to gaming, an SSD just speeds up loading screens; it doesn't give you more FPS. We're talking a difference of maybe a few seconds, so you should probably ask yourself if that extra cost is actually worth it for you.
If you're dead set on getting a pure SSD, though, you'd need to swap these out: TOSHIBA 3,5 500 GB SATA 3 plus SAMSUNG EVO 840 120 GB.
Drew Sanchez82
You and Amy Vaughn12 are both nitpicking a bit here. 4GB of RAM is still plenty for almost any game out there—it's mostly just a safety net for the future and for stuff like BF4 MP or COD Ghosts right now.
It doesn't matter how "hardcore" a gamer someone is; all that matters is what the specific game requires and making sure you don't have a bunch of useless junk running in the background.
Nobody really said much... just read between the lines here 😉
He’ll only pull off 8GB if he goes super cheap on the motherboard and the case—but cutting corners like that means he's getting lower-tier parts, so he's basically losing out anyway. Honestly, 6GB of RAM is more than enough for everything else on his list, and it actually helps keep the whole build better balanced.
Intel Core i5-3350P 3.1 AS ROCK B75 PRO3-M TRANSCEND 2GB + 4GB 1600 MHZ (6GB) SEAGATE 3,5 1TB SATA 3 SSHD SAPPHIRE R9 270 2GB DUAL-X OC + BF4 SAMSUNG DVD-RW SATA XFX 450W 80+ BRONZE SHARKOON MA-A1000 MATX USB 3.0
$1693 - Futura IT (includes assembly and shipping)
I hope you don't mind me suggesting a different shop—they offer basically the same level of service, just with slightly better prices and more options.
Since you aren't planning on overclocking anything, I think going with Intel is a smarter move than AMD here. I kept in mind that you want something reliable that won't give you headaches for a long time, so I picked out some slightly higher-quality parts. That R9 270 / x is plenty for playing most modern games smoothly on high/ultra settings—assuming we're talking 1080p, obviously.
The CPU is strong enough that you can easily swap in a beefier graphics card down the road. Plus, the power supply is solid (it’s basically a repackaged Seasonic sII platform)—plenty of juice for this build now, and even enough if you decide to upgrade the GPU later (your power draw will actually drop once you swap that card out anyway).
To make sure apps and games snap open quickly and the whole system feels snappy, I included an SSHD. It’s that hybrid HDD/SSD style, so it’s way faster than a standard old-school hard drive. As for the case, it’s got everything you need—good space, decent cable management, and solid airflow thanks to those two pre-installed 120mm fans.
Hey, maybe chill out with the mindless comments on these threads because you clearly haven't got a clue what you're talking about. The LC GP3 is actually a solid power supply—it sits right up there with the Corsair Cx or an XFX 450 w. Honestly, if you hadn't used one yourself, just do a quick Google search and you'll see it's legit; it's just hard for trolls like you to wrap your head around that 😉
Is the Evo way too pricey, or is it actually better for overclocking? You're probably right 😉
The only real edge Giga has is that pure CF/SLI support, but honestly, that only matters if you're planning on running a multi-GPU setup right out of the gate—otherwise, in my opinion, the Evo is a much more well-built board overall.
edit: if you were talking about the As R. instead of the other mobo, then my bad.
crimsonstag84, you basically just wrote down everything I didn't feel like typing out—it's basically your signature at this point.
Personally, I’m still a huge fan of Windows 7 64-bit SP1—it just feels like a more serious OS, you know? It's way more productive for work, but honestly, it's just as good for messing around, and for me, it's much more straightforward to navigate. If you're really craving those newer apps, the updated interface, DX 11.2, or full UEFI support, then yeah, go ahead and jump over to W8.1 64-bit. But honestly, you can't really go wrong with either one when it comes to gaming.
Look, just stick with the Cooler Master—you don't really need a beefier cooler. You mentioned in our DMs that you aren't planning on overclocking, and even if you did, that Cooler Master is plenty to hit 4.2-4.3GHz, which is pretty much the ceiling for that motherboard anyway. Seriously, don't waste your cash if you don't have to.
Besides, your iPhone case already offers great airflow, and honestly, either cooler will fit inside without any issues.
Honestly, ditch that Corsair cooler—it's totally overkill when you've already got the Cooler Master, and you're just throwing money away at this point.
You could easily stick with those Logitech peripherals we talked about earlier since they give you way more bang for your buck, though I know it's all about what you personally want.
From what I can see, you’re mostly just suggesting Intel builds where those CPUs end up being a total bottleneck for a 280X or a GTX 770—I mean, sure, it won't happen in every single game, but you definitely feel it once things get CPU intensive.
So, I’m out here suggesting an ASUS M5A97 R2 for his build, and then you come along and recommend that lower-tier AS ROCK 970 EXTREME 3—plus you actually tell him to grab it if he plans on overclocking? Wow. Real top-tier advice right there ☕
I’d suggest checking out that first FX 6300 setup for Kimberly Gomez34, but honestly—I’m pretty sure they aren't carrying the MSI R9 270 anymore. Those standard models flew off the shelves the second they hit the floor, so definitely double-check with them first.
Anyway, here’s an alternative build for you—it’s got a slightly beefier power supply and a GPU that’s roughly the same strength (you might see a few FPS difference depending on which game you're playing):
FX 6300 SPIRE KEPLER R2.0 ASUS M5A97 R2.0 A-DATA 4GB 1600 MHZ TOSHIBA 3,5 500 GB SATA 3 MSI GTX 660 2GB OC CHICONY HIPRO 500W 80+
= $1338 - Futura IT
If you’re dead set on getting R9 270 + BF4, and it turns out that guy doesn't have the MSI version in stock, just swap the motherboard to the Extreme3. It’s more than enough for the FX 6300—plus it lets you overclock it and eventually upgrade to something like a better FX 8320 later on.
With everything else listed above, that’s basically $1336it.
What kind of case are you rocking? If you don't know the exact model, just let me know if it's an ATX, mATX, or whatever—it matters. Also, definitely double-check if your drive uses a PATA or SATA connection, because a lot of the newer motherboards out there only support SATA interfaces now.
It would also be super helpful if you could mention how you're planning to pay—like, cash or card? If you're going the card route, let me know which bank you're with and if you're looking to split it into installments. That way, I can figure out which local shops would actually be the best fit for you.
Dude, don't talk nonsense like that—I'm reporting this to the mod right now because this isn't the first time someone’s pulled this kind of crap with me. You’re out here offering him stuff that isn't even available and acting like you're some genius when I'm just suggesting things from a different shop.
Elon Musk
Always with the "expert" advice, huh? There’s honestly zero difference between a GTX 760 and an AMD Radeon R9 280X, and let's be real—where is the overclocking potential of that 280X compared to what the GTX 760 can do? If we're talking about price gaps and those famous $167 differences, then let me ask you this—why didn't you suggest the AMD Radeon R9 270X? It's way cheaper and gives almost identical performance to the GTX 760.
And earlier, weren't you telling him that if he doesn't go for extreme overclocking with his CPU, he could save money on a cheaper cooler and motherboard? Well, why not suggest the ASUS M5A97 R2 and the ZALMAN CPS10X Optima? They’re more than enough for a decent mid-range OC like 4.2GHz, which would have saved him even more cash.
If you actually knew your components and understood what makes a build work, you'd realize my suggestions end up being cheaper in the long run—except everything isn't at one single store, it's just a better overall deal. People around here always get worked up whenever I make a suggestion they can't beat.
With a few clicks, he gets a 5-year warranty that actually works through XFX directly rather than dealing with local headaches in the US, which means if something breaks after the initial 2 years, he won't be wasting time and shipping money back and forth.
Frost
Take a closer look at their website and you'll see it's not there. Just so you know, IPS isn't the only panel that offers great picture quality, and it's definitely not a magic bullet for "perfect" visuals—you've got to consider a bunch of other factors too.
I suggested the BenQ because of the large panel size, which is great for a gaming/multimedia PC. It has a solid VA panel that sits right between TN and IPS in terms of quality (closer to IPS), a sturdy, adjustable stand, and a fast refresh rate which is huge for high FPS gaming.
LG has been on the market longer and it's a safe bet. Not much to say there—it's an obvious choice for builds like this given the budget and what you get for such a low price on a 24" screen.
ASUS is probably the worst of the bunch regarding image quality (don't think it's a massive difference, though), but they do offer a 4-year warranty.
The build is refined because the Sapphire and XFX models I picked are among the quietest 280X cards out there (I'm talking under full load, obviously; every card is quiet at idle). Plus, the warranties are extended and fully valid in the US, and the component quality is stepped up across the board (like I mentioned for the mobo, cooler, GPU, PSU, case, and monitor).
I gave you my recommendation and explained it all based on my own experience. If you want to listen, do it—you'll come out ahead and won't regret the choice. If not, fine, go follow suggestions from other shops; I don't care where you buy your gear. My goal is just to suggest the best possible setup. And if I happen to prefer a specific shop because they treat you like royalty and fix any issues immediately, then honestly, forgive me for pointing you in that direction.
Honestly, you've got a killer budget here—I don't see why you'd even bother settling for the cheap stuff. Plus, stock at most shops has actually gotten better lately. From what I can tell, Adm doesn't even have the Vapor anymore, just the standard Dual-X 280-tku, which is honestly pretty loud compared to the slightly pricier Asus—which, by the way, comes with a much better warranty.
Bottom line? My take is that if you put together a build with slightly higher-quality parts, you’re basically buying yourself peace of mind with better warranties:
FX 8320 ENERMAX ETS T40 WHITE CLUSTER ASUS M5A97 R2.0 EVO PATRIOT VIPER 2X4 GB 1600 MHZ (8GB) KINGSTON V300 120 GB SSD WD BLUE 1TB SATA 3 ASUS R9 280X 3GB DC2T LG GH24NS95 SATA SEASONIC SS 550G 80+ GOLD ZALMAN Z5 PLUS
BENQ 27" VA LED or LG 24" IPS or ASUS 24"
$9.5k — including assembly and shipping from Best Buy
What's improved: - cooler (better overclocking potential, runs quieter) - motherboard: way less noise, better BIOS, tons of features thanks to that 990 chipset, plus more stability when pushing clocks higher - graphics card is quieter, has a better warranty, and better OC headroom - case looks nicer and offers a bit more room, though the internals are basically the same - power supply — I mean, what is there to say about Seasonic's G series? It's perfect in every way - suggested monitors are a nice step up given the budget
Those P-series models don't come with integrated graphics, so if you need some kind of backup plan in case your dedicated card decides to quit on you, you might want to look at an i5 3330—or maybe check out those slightly pricier options Benjamin King2 suggested.