You aren't going to void your warranty if you actually do the job right and don't mess around. The GPU itself doesn't have any stickers on it that would stop you from installing an aftermarket cooler.
The Asus board has a slightly better sound chip than some of those budget motherboards, but honestly, as for how it stacks up against an Audigy—you wouldn't know for sure until you try it. Just pop it in a PCI slot and see for yourself.🙂
FX 8320 ENERMAX T40 BLACK T. ASUS M5A97 R2.0 EVO PATRIOT VIPER 2X4 GB 1600 MHZ (8GB) SEAGATE 3,5 1TB SATA 3 SSHD SAPPHIRE R9 290 4GB DDR5 LG GH24NS95 SATA FORTRON FSP RAIDER 650W 80+ SILVER ZALMAN Z5 PLUS
$2695 - Futura it
But now you're dealing with a different headache—you can't find an Accelero Xtreme anywhere in the States right now. Honestly? It might be easier to just save yourself the trouble and grab the MSI GTX 780 3GB OC TF IV GAMING instead. You get great cooling straight out of the box and a solid warranty, plus when you factor in the cost of a separate cooler, the price ends up being pretty much the same anyway.
Also, I totally forgot since this thread has gotten so long—did you actually decide if you need that hard drive or not? Just a reminder: this is a hybrid HDD/SSD, so it'll run faster than a standard old-school drive while still giving you plenty of storage space.
If you don't need that, then my suggestion for a ssd stays the same.
If you're looking at this as a gaming rig—since the whole setup is actually pretty beefy overall—here's how I'd lay it out:
Intel Core 2 Duo AS ROCK FM2+ A55 HD TRANSCEND 4GB 1600 MHZ TOSHIBA 3,5 500 GB SATA 3 SAPPHIRE HD 7770 1GB GHZ ED. Dell OptiPlex Desktop CHICONY HPA 400W ACTIVE NAVIATEC ATX
$938 - free assembly and shipping via Best Buy
Down the road, you might want to grab an aftermarket cooler like an LC CC 95 or a SPIRE KEPLER (around $33) just to keep things running cooler and quieter.
You’re gonna have to stretch that budget a little bit if you want to actually get what you need for your goals.
Here’s what I’d suggest:
A8 X4 5600K SPIRE KEPLER R2.0 AS ROCK FM2+ A88X EXTREME 4+ TRANSCEND 4GB 1600 MHZ TOSHIBA 3.5" 500 GB SATA 3 LG GH24NS95 SATA XFX 450W 80+ BRONZE ZALMAN T4
AOC 22" IPS
Total for parts: $1380 including assembly and shipping - Future.com
Link:
A8 X4 5600K LC CC 95 BIOSTAR FM2+ A88M CORSAIR 4GB 1600 MHZ TOSHIBA 3.5" 500 GB SATA 3 SAMSUNG DVD-RW SATA LC GP3 460W 80+ BRONZE CHIEFTEC MIDI ATX
PHILIPS 22" IPS
Total: $1323 (and hey, if they don't have it in stock in Cleveland, they can just ship it over from another branch for free if you ask nicely)
To me, this first option looks like the way to go—it gives you enough kick from the integrated graphics since you aren't planning on playing anything super heavy right now, plus you've got a solid quad-core CPU. That means later on, you can just slap in a much stronger dedicated GPU without having to swap out the processor (think stuff like an HD 7770, HD 7790, R7 260X, GTX 650 Ti BOOST, or an HD 7850—listed here from weakest/cheapest to strongest/priciest).
Also, if you noticed, both motherboards have the FM2+ label, which basically means they'll support those beefier Kaver processors down the road.
If I were in your shoes, I'd definitely grab the Future.com build. Even though the Best Buy option is a bit cheaper, the actual component quality and the warranty aren't even in the same league.
And look, I know you're probably gonna ask if there's a cheaper way to do this, so here's the deal—if you went the budget route, you'd end up with an Intel Pentium G2020 / G3220. You wouldn't get a better motherboard because all that extra cash would be eaten up by needing a dedicated GPU immediately. You'd just end up having to upgrade both parts later anyway. With this AMD setup, you just upgrade the graphics card first, and then maybe a faster CPU later if you really feel the need.
The top combo is if you're paying cash, but you're using a card.
Your setup should look something like this:
A8 X4 5600K SPIRE KEPLER REV 2.0 MSI FM2 A55 E33 TRANSCEND 4GB 1600 MHZ TOSHIBA 3,5 500 GB SATA 3 LG GH24NS95 SATA CHICONY HPA 400W ACTIVE NAVIATEC ATX
$852 for graphics cards - Micro Center (includes assembly and shipping)
Look, even though this option starts off a bit weaker than what was suggested before, it'll still handle those games—you just might have to dial back the settings and resolution a notch. On the flip side, this route is way better for the long haul—like, once you scrape together maybe $500$333 you can pull off a serious upgrade with a dedicated GPU like an HD 7770, HD 7790, R7 260X, GTX 650 Ti BOOST, or an HD 7850 (I listed them from weakest to strongest and cheapest to most expensive—just remember to keep your budget in mind if you're shopping used). Plus, unlike the option with the G2030, you won't have to worry about your CPU bottlenecking your graphics card later on.
If you don't mind me pointing you toward another shop that’s got a way better selection, here’s my full list of recommendations:
i7 4770 SPIRE KEPLER R2.0 ASRock H87 Pro4 Just picked up a pair of Kingmax 8GB sticks—1600 MHz, so that's 16GB total on my hands now. Kingston V300 120 GB SSD Just looking at the WD Blue 1TB SATA 3—solid little drive, but definitely nothing crazy. It gets the job done if you just need some extra breathing room for files or a basic storage setup. Nothing flashy, but honestly, sometimes simple is better. POV: You’re rocking an NVIDIA GTX 650 with 1GB of DDR5. LG GH24NS95 SATA drive... anyone else messing around with this? XFX 450W 80+ Bronze Zalman Z1 ATX cases... man, talk about a blast from the past. I was just looking at some old specs and thinking about how much things have changed. It’s funny how certain hardware just sticks in your head, you know? Still holds up in spirit, even if we've moved way past those builds.
So, I’ve been looking into the AOC 23" Professional IPS lately—it's one of those monitors that just seems to hit that sweet spot if you're trying to balance work and play without breaking the bank. Since it uses an IPS panel, the colors stay pretty accurate even when you're viewing it from an angle, which is huge if you're doing any design stuff or just hate those weird color shifts you get with cheaper screens. It's not exactly a high-end gaming beast, but for everyday tasks and some light media consumption, it feels solid. Just a decent, reliable little setup for a desk. Logitech MK 270 tips + misc. Man, those Genius SP HF-500A speakers are absolute legends. Seriously—total classic. Spire card reader... anyone else messed around with these?
Total: $2848 Everything's set—assembly and delivery included via FedEx.
Honestly, you might be better off just grabbing a hybrid drive instead of messing around with separate SSD and HDD setups—it'd probably be a smarter move. Seagate BarraCuda 1 TB HDD And I'll throw in some extra stuff too. I need a better monitor. I’d go with a more natural aspect ratio and higher resolution, especially given what you're trying to do here. And since you mentioned this is just an amateur setup for now, you don't really need to drop the cash on an SSD—but if you want a little extra kick, a Seagate BarraCuda 1 TB HDD would definitely give you better performance than your standard old-school hard drive.
Looking at that same build, I noticed nobody’s actually suggested an aftermarket cooler for the 4770 yet—and man, that thing runs hot as hell. Especially for your setup, since you're gonna be pushing it under heavy load constantly, it's definitely worth looking into if you want to keep things stable.
You’re getting a solid monitor here—one that actually comes with decent ergonomic features like tilt, swivel, and pivot—plus it's paired with a modern AH-IPS panel for really high-quality image reproduction (and honestly, that goes for the more expensive option I suggested, too).
So, I went ahead and leveled up your case and peripherals, plus swapped in an Intel H87 Chipset motherboard—it gives you way better specs for basically the same price as those slightly pricier B85 boards. I also made sure the whole setup stays dead quiet—that’s why I picked out this specific CPU cooler, that awesome silent XFX unit (which is actually just a repackaged Seasonic, by the way), and a POV NVIDIA GTX 650 that comes with that super quiet Arctic Cooling Accelero L2 heatsink.
Honestly, if you're planning on adding a second monitor down the road or eventually moving into more demanding 3D work, you might want to start thinking about upgrading to a beefier GPU with at least 2GB of VRAM—but for what you're doing right now? You definitely don't need to rush out and buy one just yet.
Patrick Miller8 said:okay.. thanks. I think I read somewhere that their coolers die really fast and end up causing all sorts of trouble.. is that actually true? 🙂
Gigabyte It’s easily the most budget-friendly option—plus, it's already overclocked out of the box and still has plenty of headroom to push further. You're getting solid thermal performance from an efficient cooler, and it even comes with a 3-year warranty. It's a killer deal, especially since the MSI Gaming series doesn't quite hit that top-tier level this time around.
AMD FX-Series X8 8320 CM 212+ EVO ASUS M5A97 R2.0 EVO A-DATA 8GB 1600 MHZ KINGSTON V300 120 GB SSD SAPPHIRE R9 290 4GB + AC XTREME III LG GH24NS95 SATA FORTRON FSP 650W 80+ SILVER THERMALTAKE CHASER A21
Total: $2765 - Future City (free assembly and shipping)
You should give the guys over at Future City a nice polite ask—they can probably grab you an aftermarket cooler from Port and swap it onto that R9 290, since the stock cooler is honestly pretty trash. Anyway, if $100 isn't breaking the bank for you, this is my go-to recommendation if you want to get the most bang for your buck—especially since you'll need a beefier card like the R9 290 to handle that higher resolution you're running.
An i7 isn't even necessary for a gaming rig; an FX 83xx or an i5K will do just fine. And seriously, stay away from those pre-built setups—99% of the time they're put together way worse than if you just pick out the parts and build it yourself.
Also, I'm pretty sure you don't have a 33" monitor, but rather a 30"—specifically an HP ZR30W, if I'm remembering right?
If you're looking to pick up a new HD 7770, honestly just grab the Gigabyte HD 7770 1GB OC — it’s got a better cooler that stays way quieter, and the factory overclock is about 100 MHz higher than the MSI version. Plus, you actually get a 36-month warranty.
As for the power supply, you can snag a decent Xilence Red Wing for pretty cheap, and it'll be brand new too.
Look, if you aren't actually gaming, just swap that I5 2500 non k out for a B75, H67, or H77 board—or if you're running a K series, go with a Z68 or Z77. Honestly, just lean on the integrated graphics from the i5—it’s more than enough for what you're trying to do. Just make sure whatever motherboard you grab has both DVI and HDMI ports, and you'll be all set.
Look, if you aren't gonna mess around and just pick one, then just grab it. The HD 6450... honestly, just a total relic at this point. ...or maybe something with a bit more kick. HD 6570 You're good, man. You seriously don't even need an XFX Radeon 7750.
If you actually had any common sense, you wouldn't claim that a percentage of $133 with such ancient architecture could handle a GPU upgrade of +3K.
I’m being dead serious when I say it's just plain stupid—it's 100% facts here. An Intel Core 2 Duo E8400 at stock settings is a massive bottleneck for an AMD Radeon HD 5850/6850/7770, let alone anything more powerful than that.
Look, maybe try testing it yourself before acting like an expert based on some random link you found on some Eeny, meeny, miny, moe website.
Like I already told you, the bare minimum for an AMD Radeon HD 7850 would be a Q6600 overclocked past 3GHz—and even then, it's still gonna throttle that HD 7850 in certain games. It won't be nearly as bad as the E8400 or that even weaker Intel Core 2 Duo E6550 that the OP is running.
Just a quick heads-up—the power draw for the AMD Athlon x4 740 and the x4 750 k is actually identical. Even though the specs claim the 750k pulls 100W, that's mostly just marketing fluff to justify pairing it with higher-end motherboards that have better voltage regulation. It doesn't actually pull that much more juice.
Look, just buy a high-quality power supply—something that actually delivers a true 400-500W—and call it a day. You seriously shouldn't skimp on this part. If you grab an XFX 450W or a Corsair CX 430W V2.3, it’ll serve you well for a long time.
Look, if an E8400 can handle an HD7970 at stock settings, then there's no way it'll struggle with an HD7850—it'll breeze right through it.
I haven't heard anything this ridiculous in a long time—trying to overclock an E8600 to 4.2 GHz? There's no way that's going to properly keep up with an HD7850 2GB, let alone an HD7970.
It really all boils down to what else you're running in your rig and how much cash you've actually got to burn—that’s gonna dictate which GPU fits your budget.
Otherwise, it's a pretty decent power supply. It puts out 336W on the +12V rail and the fan stays relatively quiet—unless, of course, you decide to absolutely redline it with some overkill components. Honestly, the only real downside is that the cables are kind of short, so it’s definitely more suited for an ATX build.
It’ll hold up just fine as long as nobody went overboard with overclocking it or paired it with some massive, power-hungry GPU. It puts out 350W on the +12V rail, so it should handle that combo you mentioned without breaking a sweat.
Honestly, if it hasn't been opened up in years, you should probably give it a quick blast with some compressed air just to clear out the dust.