Posts by Michael Jackson10

It looks like your "expert" took the easy way out: I’m running 32-bit, so I’ll be dealing with driver headaches for a while... and honestly, it makes zero sense for a rig like this. The GPU is already eating up part of my RAM, and since the system can't even access all of it, we're basically losing almost a quarter of the available memory... total fail.

I don't get what you mean about the wires: are you saying the wireless stick isn't installed right, so you're stuck using an Ethernet cable for internet?
It feels to me like all your issues are strictly software-related, and your hardware is actually innocent here. One clean, fresh install of everything should fix it. It’ll take a bit longer if you want to do it right and avoid ending up with a massive mess of errors in the Control Panel.
The part about your documents is a little cryptic: are you saying you can't open files in Word, even though they were originally made in OpenOffice or LibreOffice?
If that's the case, don't be surprised. I'm constantly juggling between old OpenOffice files and newer Microsoft Word stuff myself. No matter what people say, there's more incompatibility than compatibility. Plus, OpenOffice handles those "sketchy" files better than Word, which often refuses to open OO documents because of formatting errors. Just whatever you do, don't open them in Word and save them—you'll just end up making a complete mess of the formatting.
Your best bet is to keep the original program, like OO or LO, installed alongside Word. Use those for the older files, because otherwise, the formatting will get totally trashed, even if you try saving them as .doc or .xls...
As for everything else: that external hard drive acting up at the front, etc.—it's either poorly installed motherboard/USB drivers, or your front port isn't pushing enough juice to the drive. Try plugging it into the back, or use a USB 3.0 port.

And seriously, quit writing in riddles! Just be clear: tell me when I do X with Y program or Z device, I get this specific error, or this wire is used for this purpose...

That dual-channel thing has nothing to do with these issues. The truth is, using Win32 for more than 3 GB of RAM makes no sense in any setup. You can solve that right now by reinstalling Windows and switching to 64-bit (so you can actually use what you've got), or you can wait until you upgrade your RAM—though that's not certain yet, and you might mess up the system before then and need a reinstall anyway.
See, at this rate, maybe we should just call the neighbor's kid over to make us some pancakes...

Rachel Jones8 said:I'm actually hoping to return one little thing tomorrow. I'll see if I can make it happen. (Not at the mall, though.)
OFF, it’s not even about computers—I just bought the wrong tablet case because I was given totally wrong info on the model. Too bad I already tossed the packaging, or at least it's pretty beat up now.
It’s not even about me hating the thing—it just doesn't fit. Why would I want it if it doesn't work?
I'm not expecting a full refund, but maybe the retailer could sell it at a discount since the packaging is damaged?
I'd honestly just pay the extra few bucks to get the exact same thing, but specifically for my tablet. Why not?
Is that even realistic?
Looks like I need to pick up a second one, then try to offload this current one...😢

Honestly, I wouldn't count on them. They were pretty rude and unprofessional, but hey, what's the harm in giving it a shot?

You're following me like the FBI, you're my destiny 🙂

I just wanted to show the flip side of things here... everyone is out for blood: "my rights, my rights," as if retailers exist to grant our every wish instead of being actual businesses rather than some midnight fortune tellers.
Look, realistically, what is the store supposed to do with that cover? There's no packaging, what about a discount? They'd have to pay you out of the register, which leaves them with a cash shortage...
It isn't that simple for them either:
- Technically, they would first need to be registered to trade in used goods to legally buy back an item from a customer (because once you return something that isn't in the exact same shape and packaging you bought it in, it’s not a standard return anymore—it's something else entirely), and most shops aren't set up for that.
- That’s a prerequisite if they want to buy items back without breaking regulations.
- Liking it, disliking it, it fits, it doesn't... honestly, those categories don't really factor into a commercial transaction. A sale is a legal contract: you choose the item, you buy it, and as long as it functions exactly how it was described and sold, the retailer isn't liable. If you messed up the size, that's on you. Wrong color? Your problem. Wrong shape? Your problem. It was on display; you should have checked. The only exception is if the retailer intentionally misled you, or if the label was flat-out wrong and you have proof, or if it was a telemarketing sale where the picture doesn't match reality...
You can't return half a loaf of bread to the bakery just because you overestimated how much you could eat...
- If they accept it as a return, it creates a massive paperwork headache: they either have to claim it as warehouse damage or figure out how to mark it down as clearance stock, blah blah... personally, if it was a small amount, I'd rather just hand someone cash from my own pocket than deal with all that hassle...

Let's not jump to conclusions and call people rude or unprofessional over situations like this. You're usually communicating with an employee who reports to an owner; they often don't even have the authority to approve a return like this, and they're just trying to protect their paycheck... sure, they might actually be jerkish, or the company policy might suck, but these specific cases are actually examples of a business trying to provide decent service to you...

Anyway, go ahead and ask @average how they handle stuff like this at their place... oops, there he is...

Jamie Wood70 said:hey

is it possible to return a keyboard if it's still in its original packaging? I only used it for maybe two minutes and I want my money back.

I picked up a keyboard from a Center for American Progress store today, but I'm just not feeling it. I guess I'd rather get a refund and pick out something else instead. Is that actually doable?

1. It's not "originally packaged" anymore since you opened it. You used it for 2 minutes (or 2 years, doesn't matter, it's used now), so you basically just repackaged it yourself.;
2. If "not liking it" is the reason, did you like it when you bought it? At what exact moment did it stop being cool?
3. How much cash are you expecting back? The full amount? What is the shop supposed to do with it once you hand it back and they give you your money? Sell it as brand new? If you were the next customer paying full price, would you be happy knowing someone else played with it for 2 minutes?
If the store has to mark down the price because it's technically used, but still give you a full refund, they'll be broke in a month paying for everyone's "change of heart."..

I'm not totally sure, but I think under the Consumer Protection Act there might be some rules about returns within a certain timeframe, but definitely not if the item has been used, no matter how briefly... Plus, stores will just bake those costs into their prices to cover themselves. Not everything that changes is necessarily progress, right?...

Look, I’m looking at this from a buyer's perspective here. You’ve swapped out everyone else's "defective" gear (if you could just walk me through the symptoms and what actually happens when they fail), so as a customer, all I’m really facing is the hassle of swapping equipment or maybe some data loss—which is my main headache—but at least a replacement is guaranteed...
Basically, I don't really care if you sell me an Intel chip with killer support, an Apple part from a gray market, or Kingston gear shipped from the Netherlands. The end result is the same; it's just about how many days it takes to get a response. I appreciate the recommendation and I'll take the risk. Why would I blame a retailer for a factory defect when it was my own choice to buy? Of course, we don't live in a candy land where everyone is nice; most customers will just lose their minds on the first person they see.

On the flip side, looking at it from the seller's point of view, I totally get why you'd be "paranoid" and act preemptively. You want to deal only in top-tier goods to dodge those awkward confrontations with customers—who, let's face it, have zero clue how things work and just want to demand their rights—plus you avoid extra costs since profit margins are already razor-thin anyway.

And as for knowing the "ins and outs," do you honestly think that's exclusive to your industry?? If so, you haven't got a clue... retail is regulated enough that you'll see even brothers getting jealous over big money...

Hold up, that Intel bug was flagged way back in 2011. If I remember correctly, the current version of the Pentium III came out in 2013. There was even a shift from synchronous to asynchronous chips during that time. Are you really saying the bug just magically vanished without any upgrades? Or are you suggesting our local retailers just sat on massive stockpiles of "old" versions the whole time... or maybe they found a secret warehouse full of them? It doesn't make sense—most people flash the firmware the second they buy it.
Prices have been dropping across the board, and the market is getting crowded with new players. Honestly, everyone is making SSDs now, even his brother Robert. Crucial was actually the first one to slash prices, and you can see everyone else following suit: Apple, Intel (none of them use SandForce in those series, or they tweak them so much it doesn't matter, so why would they bother "saving" buggy inventory?). Kingston has always just been the go-to budget brand for picking up mature tech at a steal.
Now, Crucial (Dell) and Apple have the whole thing figured out in-house: they own the memory chips and the controllers, plus they develop their own silicon. Even Seagate is finally waking up, though they've been pretty sluggish since they were so focused on the corporate and server side of things. But as prices keep sliding, the market is going to shake out. Just like what happened with Crucial, all these smaller guys who just buy off-the-shelf parts or rebrand stuff are going to get wiped out, leaving only two or three giants standing.

Jason Harris5 said:Look, I’ll say it again: your money, your choice. Until I see a supplier importing hundreds of Corsair units straight to my doorstep (or even my buddies'), he's not buying it.

This is just how the market is working right now, and honestly? I feel like we took a step backward after joining the European Union. It used to be simple—you had two or three big distributors, limited selection, and that was that. Now? You have endless options on paper, but nobody actually has anything in stock. They take your payment, pile up orders, and then maybe they'll try to import it if they can even find it. If they can't? Good luck fighting for your refund.
Basically, it's the same old mess. Some Gigabyte gear here, a bunch of ASRock and Kingston stuff there, whatever CPUs happen to show up... one day you have it, the next you don't. Stock levels are lower because everything has to move fast to keep prices down. Newer tech arrives, everyone orders it instantly from overseas, and you just hope you actually get what you paid for (I mean, at least they aren't shipping bricks or firewood instead),
Eventually, some massive international retail chain is going to swoop in, wipe out all these small local shops, force their own selection on us, and boom—diversity is dead. Back to square one...

Once you see someone actually sitting on 500 Corsair drives in their warehouse, that'll probably be the only thing left to buy locally...

Timothy Kim60 said:Corsair Vector 150 120GB – a decent step up

It's a solid SSD, sure, but man, it’s overpriced. Is it really worth it when you can grab a Samsung 850 EVO for just a tiny bit more? $200

I get what you mean, but I guess it'll take a minute for those official channels to actually get moving...

Man, everything in Washington, D.C. is way cheaper by $33... why was I born in this crazy part of the universe?

Man, you totally caught me off guard there! I was actually looking at how the Samsung 850 EVO series isn't even priced much differently from other drives, so I was thinking about grabbing one for my next work upgrade to give my tired old rig some life... (And no, I'm not looking at those sketchy sites that want upfront payment for imports; for work, I don't mind dropping $33 more)

So, what's the verdict? Don't use an SSD for critical stuff? Or have you dealt with this firsthand?

If it were just for my home setup, I wouldn't sweat it using something like Corsair, or maybe play it safe with a Samsung. But honestly, with my luck, gear usually dies before I even finish building it. I’m basically a fatalist—I just figure, "that's just my karma."
To be clear, my experience is second-hand through a buddy, so take it with a grain of salt. We cloned the system a few times for specific apps; the PC worked, but it felt sluggish. It would occasionally hit this weird limbo where tasks took way longer than they did on a standard HDD. We never had the energy for a clean install... once we went back to a classic HDD, things felt a bit more stable, though there are still occasional hiccups. I doubt it's just drivers or general settings issues with all the different hardware... I'd really love to see how a properly optimized build actually performs.
None of the big-name manufacturers seem to have issues with SSDs, and you've got enthusiasts running SSD RAIDs and every niche model out there... Personally, money is a bit tight right now, so I'm not planning any massive home renovations, and my desktop is a total dinosaur (an Athlon 64) that I just use here and there—I mostly stick to my laptop. Any upgrades will probably come from buying used parts (stuff gamers think is too weak, which I'll happily grab since it's high-end for my needs, and I don't care about FPS). I never buy everything at once, so I can phase parts in, and I do all my own builds, but now I need to take that next step... plus, I have a habit of overcomplicating everything, only to stop caring about it entirely after a couple of days..

Jason Harris5 said:Just wondering, what SSD would you actually suggest, and what capacity fits within this budget?

Aside from certain Intel series and Samsung, pretty much everyone else is still using that buggy LSI SandForce controller. Are you sure you don't want to deal with a user calling you up because their PC hit hibernation and the drive just locked up? I wouldn't risk it. Safety first, right?

It should probably be the other way around—you're in the industry, I'm not, life took me on a different path...

For work? Honestly, none of them. A buddy of mine had issues with a Kingston SSD (cheap, older controller, etc.), so I'm not sure if that was just bad luck or if all SSDs are like that.
(Don't call me out now, but you kind of called my choice!)
In the budget we're talking about here? None. I'd aim straight for Samsung. I know they're huge right now—sometimes I wonder if it's all just hype—but logically, since they make both the controller and the drive, they should know what they're doing. My second pick would be Intel, again because they have a reputation for not messing around and they write their own firmware instead of relying on SandForce.
That's why I mentioned maybe trying an SSHD. I'm an old-school Seagate fan for some reason; I own a ton of them and they always run smoothly.

Basically, I'm just waiting to see what Toshiba does with OCZ. They didn't buy them for nothing...

Take the OCZ Vector 150, for example—great price, uses its own controller (so it's not SandForce 🙂). As for the lower rated endurance, haven't WD and Seagate been cutting their warranties lately too? This tech is mature now; there isn't massive profit left in it, production is huge, so if it's a little less durable, who cares? An SSD's lifespan isn't actually that much shorter than a classic hard drive, especially when these things die during the first year of warranty anyway. And what good is a warranty if you lose all your data along with the drive? (Yeah, yeah, "backup, backup, backup"—I tell everyone that, even though I don't do it myself.)

So, I'm guessing you aren't recommending an SSD because of the stuff you mentioned: price, capacity, durability, or reliability?
Safety (even if it's shaky) over speed?

Rachel Jones8 said:I’m not even going to argue about whether it’s smart to run to a repair shop for every little thing or if you can just DIY it... but if someone sells you a rig for over $300, they should at least give you a heads-up—like, "Hey, bring this in for service every year or two, it needs a professional cleaning, thermal paste replacement, and all that." You know, just so you actually know what smart maintenance looks like. Whether you end up doing it yourself or not is beside the point.

Come on, 99% of people treat a repair shop like a necessary evil they only visit when things totally die. If shops told everyone during a sale that preventative maintenance was a thing, nobody would ever come back because they'd think they were being ripped off.
Your PC probably ran for 10 years without any maintenance, but today’s cheap mesh cases without filters suck up the same amount of dust in just one year. People literally treat laptops like disposable tech, using them on beds and blankets for months, spilling coffee, soda, or chocolate milk all over them... PCs have gone from being the center of the household to just another piece of consumer electronics, so people just don't care as much anymore...

Yeah... but there aren't many of those 2.0 ports left... just two 2.0 plus two more up top near the keyboard port. One goes to the mouse, leaving only three, provided you can plug anything into that top one, like an "antenna" or something.
That leaves only two. (printer and a controller). Actually, it’s fine... hard drives and USB sticks can be handled from the front.

Honestly, I can't think of anything else you'd need to plug in. The front ones are for sticks and portable stuff. If I remember right (and my memory isn't great), your motherboard has two headers for two USB 2.0 ports each, and one header for two USB 3.0 ports. If one is already used by the case, you still have at least one USB 2.0 header left that you could use for a rear bracket.
Slot bracket
(I don't know why on earth they don't include them with motherboards when the headers are right there)
or, maybe even better, on the front
Front panel
or finally
USB hub

You've got plenty of cheap options, so no worries. You won't run out of things to plug in!

Rachel Jones8 said:But... the wire connector was torn, so it had to go in to get changed. And the computer wasn't working right... it wouldn't recognize the keyboard or mouse... it kept shutting down... so we took it back there again. They "reset" something... we'll see how it goes.

A torn wire connector? I don't get it.
What was that on a brand-new computer?

Around here, people still act like an SSD is some fancy luxury instead of a total necessity. Since a PC technically functions without one, folks think it’s just about making things "comfortable" rather than actually being functional. So, they treat it like an optional extra, even though investing upfront is the only way to ensure the system doesn't crawl tomorrow...
People laugh when I pick out an "overkill" rig for work, but I know exactly what I’m doing. I plan on squeezing every bit of life out of this machine until it dies. I know the government and software devs are going to push sixteen different app updates on me throughout the year. I don't have time to sit around waiting for a report to generate just because a weaker computer is struggling to keep up. I’m spec-ing this thing out for where we'll be in 2016, knowing it’ll still run smooth, even if I'm paying more today than I strictly "need" to. I used to buy the bare minimum or just the recommended specs, only to find myself hunting for compatible RAM two years later because everything slowed to a crawl. That’s just a massive waste of time and money. When I build a work PC, I build it to last, period. I set it, forget it, and expect it to perform.
At home, there's no pressure, so I experiment way more. I have a tendency to go overboard, which means I’ve ended up with a mountain of adapters and random electronics I barely touch—stuff I bought once, got disappointed with, and let gather dust. Man, I wish I had my own version of Rachel Jones8 acting as my voice of reason, stepping in to say, "Stop piling junk up and quit wasting money on useless crap..."
Women tend to be way more rational about this stuff, though sometimes they take it to the extreme and expect the impossible. Guys, on the other hand, love to experiment. We often declare some new gadget "essential" just because it's the latest thing. Honestly, our standards end up dictating our wants...

It’s funny how we’re willing to blow way more cash on personal gear—investing in luxuries or just chasing the latest tech trends—while we pinch every single penny when it comes to business expenses.

Look, like Jason Harris5 says, a PC isn't some "finished product" where you just get a manual like you're setting up a water heater. I mean, unless the instructions are just two lines like: "plug this in here, plug the keyboard in there," and that's it... because who knows what kind of setup a user is actually going to run once they start adding mice and everything else?

People really need to view a build as a foundation—something they can turn into a specific tool for their own needs. Will it be a high-end workstation, a gaming rig, a jukebox, a control unit for a CNC machine, or a media center? Who knows! At the end of the day, it’s really just the computer + software + the user making it a functional whole. A retailer can only give you general pointers if the customer even knows what they want, which most people don't when they're deciding what to load onto it. Most folks just walk in and ask: "I need a computer, something cheap for the house, for the kids, just for Microsoft Office, the Internet, maybe some movies, a little gaming, a bit of AutoCAD... could it be a laptop, since everyone carries them around these days?"

Rachel Jones8 said:So, here's a question to wrap things up, if anyone's interested:
My motherboard and PC have both USB 2.0 and 3.0 ports.
Even though they look slightly different, everything I plug in fits in both. Everything looks the same once it's plugged in!)
Is there an actual difference, and does it matter which port I use for what?
Does it matter which slot I use for my gear (printer, game controller, "antenna," external drive, or USB stick)?
If 3.0 is faster/better, what's the smart way to use those ports?

USB 3.0 is basically the latest revision of the standard, and theoretically, it gives you 10 times the speed and bandwidth compared to USB 2.0. Though, obviously, that depends on what you're plugging in and whether that device can actually handle that much speed.
Since USB 3.0 is backward compatible, you can plug any USB 2.0 device into it, but you won't see any performance boost. For all the stuff you mentioned—printers, sticks, controllers, drives—you can just leave them in the USB 2.0 ports. There's no real benefit from the new standard there because those devices simply can't hit those speeds.
So, save those new USB 3.0 ports (usually the blue ones) for equipment specifically rated for USB 3.0. You really want to use ports that are natively USB 3.0 rather than just "supporting" it, because manufacturers love to use confusing wording to make old tech sound newer than it is.

With newer gear, we're talking about modern USB 3.0 external hard drives or even smartphones, since the newer ports can actually provide a bit more power. It's also helpful for older USB 2.0 portable drives that used to struggle with power delivery on the older ports.

Basically, just fill up your USB 2.0 ports first. Save the new ones for the fast stuff, or if you run into a situation where something won't work on the old ports, try the new ones. If the issue is low power, the newer ports should solve it right away.

I can't even begin to describe how much I love this! Seriously, isn't it just the best? kaže:
On the C drive—55GB.
On the D drive—9GB.
Got a 40GB external hard drive ready to go.
It’s not quite finished yet, but I’ve already cleared out a ton of stuff.

He didn't even want to have any influence... he's honestly not that interested, and he hasn't dealt with any of that drama anyway. And neither have I... though I guess that might be how it looks to you.

Alright, fine, I already admitted I totally missed the mark on the scale!
So, what’s the move now with the C: and D: drives? Are we talking about external storage too?
Is there actually that much data to move, or is the drive just totally maxed out? I mean, if it was that bad, you could have just popped over to the neighbor's place and borrowed some space to get that new PC set up!

I totally get where he's coming from—he’s just washing his hands of the whole thing. You aren't exactly the type to take a joke lying down, are you? More like a bit of a control freak. Honestly, maybe I could use someone like that in my life. Just in small doses, at least, until I finally get used to it.

fadedorca66 said:Wait, you actually have an external drive? Then why on earth aren't you just copying everything over to it? I don't get it.

Oh, come on, not you too! 🙂
I mean, what kind of "experts" are you guys supposed to be if you didn't see such an obvious solution coming? Seriously, does anyone actually own a laptop? Or was that just me overthinking things?

Timothy Kim60 said:I told her that ages ago, honestly. She’s just messing around with those adapters for no reason. If she had spent as much time searching her hard drive as she did posting in this thread, she would've had it fixed a long time ago.
...

Maybe she’s just curious? Like, what if she's just someone who loves to learn and wants to weigh all her options before making a move?
What the hell? They don't even make adapters designed to collect dust on shelves—some people really think we live in a world of technological geniuses. Take Linic, for example. He claimed way back when that his fiscalization laws were basically a gift to the American IT industry. Sure, he mostly just boosted profits for the big telecom giants, but hey, who cares about that? All it really did was nudge retailers to ditch DOS and upgrade to Windows XP running on some ancient, wiped-out Pentium 4 salvaged from a local bank.
If there's an IT pro lurking in this thread, maybe they could pitch a new guild rule: when you upgrade your rig, you aren't allowed to skip generations. You’ve gotta do it the right way, step by step. Start with a Pentium, move to Core2Duo, then hit Sandy Bridge, Ivy Bridge... you know, all those little transitional stages in between. Why rush it?

Luckily, the OP is as nosey as they come, so this thread is already blowing up. How long has it been? Seven pages? I’m way past being satisfied with a three-post thread and a locked topic. Honestly, this could easily turn into a full-blown tutorial on how to migrate everything from an old rig to a brand-new PC. I'm dead serious, you guys actually believe me?
So, imagine you’re someone who’s been dragging the same old computer along for about ten years. You aren't exactly some tech wizard or anything, right? Well, you're bound to hit a massive wall eventually. It’s a total shock to the system. Suddenly, you're basically forced to upgrade to a newer version of Windows. And honestly? Why? Why can't I just stick with my Black, Blue, or Rainbow Ultimate versions that actually had the features I liked? Then comes the real headache: all those old programs you actually know how to use? Gone. Good luck finding them anywhere. And don't even get me started on when the "tech guru" leaves without fixing everything. They forget to sync your email settings, they lose the paperwork... then you're left staring at the screen wondering what your username is or why you picked such a stupid password in the first place. Then, out of nowhere, your hardware stops working. Everything worked fine yesterday, but now? Nothing. Why doesn't this new Winsi have drivers for my gear? Why did they get rid of the parallel port? I've got this pristine scanner from 1995 just sitting here, and there isn't even a place to plug it in! Seriously, where is the Turbo button?

I mean, for most people, stepping into tech is like entering a whole different universe. There’s so much they just assume will work out of the box—both from the user's perspective and what the technician is supposed to provide...
Honestly, I’d bet my life that half these folks don't even know their own Wi-Fi password or email login, and frankly, they couldn't care less where to find it. I’ve even run into people who expect the retailer to come to their house and give them a full course on how to use a computer, just because they bought one there. Like, seriously? It's like buying a car and expecting the dealership to teach you how to drive. They buy a PC in the States and then get annoyed if the interface isn't set up exactly how they imagined...
Here’s a real story for you:
- Hi there, I bought a computer from you guys recently...
- Yeah, I remember. Are you having some kind of trouble with it?
- I am. Every time I put a DVD into it, nothing happens... just some little windows pop up...
- ??? Wait, which DVD? What exactly is supposed to happen?
- Just let me finish! That’s not even all of it: when I flip it over to the other side, that's when nothing happens!
- The other side?
- Yeah, the B side... look, I have it right here with me...
(It was just a standard, blank DVD...)
- Well, that's a blank disc. Nothing *is* supposed to "happen." The system is just asking you what you want to do with it.
- How am I supposed to know what it's asking? You should just come over here and show me and my wife how this thing actually works. Otherwise, I'm just returning it. I'm not paying you guys to do absolutely nothing....

Rachel Jones8 said:That's all sorted out. 🙂

How did the poor guy even survive this whole drama? I mean, how much skin did he actually have in the game, even when they were shutting down those financial structures?

Rachel Jones8 said:S
Why 6 rounds?
If the outside is 250 and this one is 160, how does that work in 6 rounds? 😕
It’s just... it isn't 160, it's 250. 😛
(the parts list is on the first page)

Because I totally messed up the scale. 🙂
I've already switched over to terabyte drives, so I guess I wasn't paying attention.
Add a zero and my math works perfectly 🙂 , just not in your case...

How do you even know what I do or don't have? 😉

Even your worst possible combination wouldn't be some massive scandal on the Internet these days; people voluntarily post all kinds of wild stuff publicly...
I highly doubt there's enough material in those 160 GB to start a new WikiLeaks or Pornhub... the Republican Party, Libertarian Party, and Democratic Party are already in total chaos; if they got even 30 seconds on a tabloid news show, man, it would be wild...

Rachel Jones8 said:What are you even trying to say here... that I didn't even need a new computer, or what?

Since I know you can't actually permanently erase data, I don't really want to be passing these drives around. I'd rather just toss them or destroy them. I'm guessing there's no point in keeping them since they aren't exactly heirlooms, right?
The data is just on the disk... but what we call memory doesn't actually store things long-term... isn't that just RAM?

There are actually specific programs designed for this, where they overwrite the disk multiple times with zeros (or some random junk, I can't remember exactly), specifically to hide any "incriminating" info. Recovering that would be a job for an agency like the CIA or the NSA with all their heavy-duty resources...
If you honestly think someone would be "impressed" by your old files, I'm pretty sure they'd find it too much work even with basic tools: just wipe the partitions, format everything, save some random nonsense over it, then wipe the partitions again... anyone would have way too much work to bother with it...
You aren't holding data so sensitive that you'd need to take a hammer to a magnetic platter. Honestly, Google knows more about you and your habits than you do...

Rachel Jones8 said:Wait, I’ve still got a question. Just curious—how exactly can they communicate with each other? I mean, how can both be online at the same time if one of them doesn't even have an internet connection? 😕

User, I honestly haven't gotten the impression that you're quite this confusing until now.
I didn't realize you were trying to connect via Wi-Fi! You can always just plug one of those devices straight into the router with an Ethernet cable. You know, those ones that came in the box—the yellow or blue ones that are a bit thicker than a phone cord and have that bigger clip on the end? Sure, the cables they give you are kind of short, but they totally get the job done if you just need a quick fix. If you're looking to retire the old setup, that’s your easiest bet. If not, you could always just grab another wireless adapter for it... why not?

Yeah, I've got an external hard drive, but it’s pretty small. Only 250GB.
...
Forgot to mention... the computer finally arrived! But honestly, who knows when I'll actually get it up and running?

That drive isn't exactly tiny for what you're trying to do, especially since your old one looks like a full 160 GB. Honestly, you could probably knock out the whole transfer in about six quick passes, and I'm pretty sure all the important stuff would fit on there just fine. Why even mess around with those cheap adapters? You've got a portable hard drive right there—why make life harder than it needs to be?
Just ditch that old drive somewhere. Give it away, donate it, or whatever—just don't waste your money buying adapters specifically for it. Seriously, the adapter won't even be worth the market value. Once the drive finally kicks the bucket, you're just left holding an adapter you'll probably never touch again. Why bother?

Haha, "when will it be up and running"... like they're trying to flip the switch on a nuclear reactor or something!
I get it. Now you’re just waiting for the stars to align so your guru can swing by and handle the full install. Until then, why not get everything staged on your laptop? Once the new rig is up and running, you won't even need to touch the old one. Easy, right?

By the way, can a computer actually run without a monitor? It still sends out a signal to the port, even if there’s nobody there to see it—the PC itself doesn't really care, right? And with the right settings, you could even ditch the keyboard. Back in the day, a mouse was basically just a trendy accessory anyway, so why bother?

Look, just stop wasting your energy trying to force the old gear to play nice with the new stuff. You'll probably hire someone to handle the Wins installation and everything else anyway, so just have them transfer the essentials via a thumb drive.
It’s a total clean slate. Trust me, you'll forget all about what was on that old rig before you know it. I barely use 5% of what's on my current setup—though, honestly, I've got that "buy everything" syndrome where if it looks cool, I grab it.
That tech person could also hook both computers up to the router and set up an ad-hoc network for you. Just fire up the old one, set the IP addresses, the SSID, and enable full disk sharing. Unplug the monitor, boot up the new machine, do the exact same thing, and boom—the old drive shows up as a network drive. Then it's just simple copy-paste... Once that's done, the old PC can stay running to download torrents, act like a jukebox, or you can just kiss it goodbye...

Rachel Jones8 said:This was a big one for me... so if that's how it works, I'm assuming I should be able to just hook up my old hard drive to a USB port on my new PC once I pick one up, right? Check this out.
For real?

Basically, yeah, you nailed it.

Just send it to me already! I can't wait to see what's coming next. Wait, what? )

Just take that with a grain of salt, okay? I’ve got zero experience with a device like this. Plus, you have to consider it was slapped together by some random guy overseas who probably isn't exactly expecting you to come banging on his door when things don't work exactly how you planned.
It’s the same old story, isn't it? You read these instructions and suddenly it’s all about the tiny details—little warnings here, compatibility issues there. Honestly, those cheap adapters that try to bridge one standard to another? They’re basically just high-tech junk waiting to happen. Why even bother?

This thing promises just about everything. Just keep in mind it’s mainly designed for external use, so think of it more like a technician's tool.
One more thing though—this is basically a one-time use product for you, right? What else are you even going to do with it?
Why bother listening to those old hard drives rattling around on your desk? Just let a pro use some decent tools to clone everything over to a new drive so you can just chill out. I'm pretty sure you don't have more than 100 GB of actual useful stuff sitting on those old disks anyway, right? It won't even make a dent on a new one.
I think the crew was suggesting you look into an internal card adapter, maybe?

Controller?

So, you’re thinking about "permanently" installing those old drives into a new rig? Honestly, you'll probably be disappointed by how slow they are and how much noise they make within a week. Plus, let's face it—they're basically on their last legs. I can't even remember which motherboard you picked out. Does it even have a spare PCI slot left?
Your solution is definitely more universal—at least on paper—but honestly, it feels more like a tool for IT pros than for regular folks who aren't exactly looking to get hacked. Just grab those drives you need, deal with them, and call it a day... or, like I mentioned ages ago, just hook the old PC and the new one up to the same router and pull whatever files you want over the local network. Simple, right?

User, where on earth do you guys live? Even out here in the middle of nowhere, I can always find two little repair shops that carry the same basic parts and fix things up for just a few bucks. Not to mention all those self-proclaimed "experts" who are always ready to completely wreck your stuff. Seriously, just bake some cookies and call up an old friend who actually knows their way around a toolkit. Suddenly, you’ve got your own little private social network: you hang out, chat in person, and someone actually builds something useful for you... and hey, I won't ask for any copyrights on your Pancake exchange service! 😉

What's up, everyone? Just feeling a little bit of that vibe today! says:
Should I fill both slots or just stick to one? Honestly, I think I finally get what Elon Musk was getting at. It probably makes more sense to grab one of the 4GB sticks now and just add another later, right? If I go with the 2x2 setup now, I'm basically stuck because of those compatibility issues we talked about earlier. Then, if I ever want to upgrade, I’d have to swap out both sticks for larger ones. What do you think though? Would it be smarter to just go with two 2GB sticks now since the performance would be better?
Honestly, I think you both have a point. 🙂
Nah, what if I add another one in like six months? You guys would be pretty stoked about that, wouldn't you? 😁
I really hope this doesn't turn into some massive headache with work, you know? Like, I'm praying it won't be anything too complicated.

So, what's your take on this? This one. The board? It’s got four slots.
So far we’ve been talking about one or two... specifically regarding dual-channel memory... you know, having those two slots.
What’s the point of 4 anyway?

See why this is such a headache? You’ve got two ways to play it. You either grab two 2GB sticks right now and deal with the inevitable math later—trying to balance surpluses, shortages, and the whole buying and selling dance. Or, you just go the standard route and pick up a single 4GB stick now, then unlock that full performance once you add another module down the road. The catch? Once you get used to that one stick, you might just decide you never need to buy another one. Isn't that how it always goes?
Yeah, everyone’s right and nobody’s right at the same time. That’s exactly why you just go with the 1x4 GB setup. Why bother trying to measure tiny differences under lab conditions? Honestly, you’re probably never even going to know if there was a difference to begin with. 😬 On the flip side, though, is 8 GB really enough? Right now. Honestly, that's total overkill for what you actually need.
Adding another module is a total breeze—as long as you get it done within a reasonable timeframe. You really need to mix in an identical module to avoid any compatibility headaches, right? That’s exactly why buying one years later is such a pain; by then, they aren't even making them anymore.
Stop overthinking it and just pull the trigger. If you keep waiting for things to get better, faster, or more powerful, you're just going to be stuck waiting forever. Honestly, it only makes sense to hold out when there’s a massive leap between generations of tech. Otherwise, why wait?

Having four slots really just gives you more breathing room for upgrades later on. You know, like starting off with 2x2 GB today, then tossing in another 2x2 GB "down the road." Whether you're running two or four sticks, you're still looking at dual-channel performance because that comes down to how the memory controller handles things, not just the number of modules you have plugged in. To put it simply, dual-channel means the processor can access two different memory addresses simultaneously instead of hitting them one after another with just a single module. Of course, that’s a massive oversimplification—using two modules doesn't exactly make your computer twice as fast!
Filling up all four slots? Honestly, that often just drags down your performance. Plus, sometimes the factory assembly is so sloppy it actually starts causing real issues. Why even bother if it's going to glitch like that?

Honestly, even if I had twice as much cash on hand, I’m not sure I’d actually bother dropping it all on a high-end rig. Why? Because, like we were saying earlier, hardware usually just dies on you before it ever actually becomes obsolete. At least when it comes to basic everyday stuff, right?
If I remember correctly, my old rig cost me nearly... $3333 (Including all the peripherals), the price dropped way down on this one. It’s not just because I'm tight on cash right now—though let's be real, that's the main reason—but I'm also just not sure if spending a ton more actually makes any sense?

That’s a real dilemma too, but it's a whole different beast. You've gotta look at the total investment in the setup, not just the "tower." Most people scrape together every cent for the PC itself and then just grab whatever cheap peripherals they can find. Personally? I’d always budget a bit extra to snag a higher-end, larger monitor along with a solid keyboard and mouse. Why settle for junk when you can actually enjoy the experience? $6.75Think about it: your peripherals are basically the only bridge between you and your PC. If you're using cheap, junk gear, you're just asking for carpal tunnel issues down the road. And don't even get me started on monitors. A high-quality screen is a legit long-term investment. Using a tiny, low-quality monitor with a massive resolution? That’s going to wreck your eyes way faster than it’ll wreck your bank account. Plus, a killer monitor can actually handle two different setups if you ever decide to upgrade your rig. Isn't that worth it?

I honestly thought we’d all eventually find some common ground... you know? Like, maybe we'd actually get on the same page to make the whole decision process a little less of a headache. Wouldn't that have been nice?

Here we go again with another legend. There’s never any consensus around here, is there? Everyone just sticks to their own guns. You’ve got the old guard like Elon Musk, Smartic, and obviously Fosna... while the rest of us are just hanging out for the vibes and the laughs.

Same here. Even if it’s a little late now, I’m still curious...
I've been doing some digging online lately—scouring forums and reading through different opinions—and I think I've landed on a bit of a theory. Now, don't get me wrong, this isn't a hard fact, just something I've gathered from what everyone seems to be saying. It feels like the general consensus is that Intel is the go-to when you want top-tier performance. But if you're looking at the budget-friendly side of things? That’s where AMD really starts to shine. So, basically, if you're dropping serious cash for the best of the best, stick with Intel. But if you're trying to save a few bucks, AMD might actually be your best bet. Makes sense, right?
It doesn't have to be that way... but hey... just like you said at the start... let's just let it serve its purpose for a year or so, and then we'll see what happens.

These holy wars are ridiculous. Look, Intel definitely wins on per-core performance—it's actually gotten so good that they’ve kind of slowed down their own innovation because nobody's really pushing them to evolve. On the flip side, AMD has the better overall package because their graphics game is way stronger, thanks to that whole ATI acquisition, even if their main CPUs still struggle a bit. That’s exactly why they’re carving out their own niche with these APU solutions and making a slow, steady move toward mobile platforms.
To some people coming in with a ten-year-old computer that looks like a literal spaceship, they won't even see the difference. I mean, if you don't have both options right in front of you, how are you ever going to notice?

Edit:
Quick question—are ATA, ATAPI, and the "path" all basically the same thing?

To put it simply:
ATA ATAPI is basically the foundation for everything when it comes to hooking up hard drives to a motherboard. People often use "IDE" as a layman's term for ATA—it’s actually named after the inventor at IBM—so you’ll usually see the whole thing referred to as the IDE/ATA standard. Simple enough, right?

ATAPI is basically just an extension of his setup. Back when optical discs first started blowing up—think along those lines with Zip drives and all that—there was this huge headache regarding how media gets logged in or out. You know, like when you pop a CD in or yank it out? The original standard didn't actually account for that, so figuring out how the computer recognizes the drive became a whole thing.

So, PATA is basically just an older way to physically hook up drives using that old ATA standard. It’s that classic setup where you use those wide, flat ribbon cables to connect your hard drives or optical discs. The whole logic back then was that if you sent all those ones and zeros through multiple wires at once, you'd get enough data flowing. But honestly? Those cables were super fragile, and the speed limits were pretty brutal.

SATA is basically the newer way to go. It uses serial data transfer—think of it like firing off data in rapid-fire bursts—but it’s way faster than the old stuff. Plus, you get much more reliable cables and the ability to hot-swap, which is a total lifesaver when you need to plug things in on the fly. Isn't that much better?

Every single one of these terms deserves its own deep dive, so I’ve kept things pretty simplified here. Honestly, all you really need to know is that ATA is basically IDE. Any decent modern drive supports ATAPI, while PATA is just a relic that's slowly dying out—it’s basically like those old dial-up connections people still have lying around the house. Right now, SATA is the go-to standard, though even it is starting to hit its limits. It’s already gone through a few revisions, and who knows what's next? We'll see.