Posts by Angela Flores4

It’s almost certainly because of those idiotic macOS settings. Somewhere deep within the system preferences, there’s an autocorrect feature that you absolutely have to disable.

driftingdrifter88 said:Sent the cooler back to the manufacturer, just waiting on that refund now.

Picked up this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835608018

Did they at least send you a Noctua sticker to slap on your case?
If not, honestly, you should be furious with them. A sticker is the bare minimum. 🙏 😁

Kimberly Gomez34 said:I’m not sure whose equipment they were running, but you have to factor in potential leaks and the resulting property damage—that’s just one more major downside to using water-based systems.

Keep in mind, too, that these guys aren't exactly rookies...

🤣
Amateur? Please. If these guys actually knew what they were doing, wouldn't they have used high-quality copper piping that could actually withstand a few atmospheres of pressure once soldered? 😁

driftingdrifter88 said:That's the truth... looks nice on paper, sure...
But honestly? The dealbreaker for me would be the fact that if there’s a technical failure in one of their cooling systems, they won't even bother compensating people for the damage it causes to their hardware...

Are you suggesting that people have already dealt with leaks from them multiple times and had their gear ruined?

Look, I'm not trying to defend them—I don't own any of their products, nor do I have the slightest clue how they actually stress-test their finished goods—but if you really want to see if a seal is going to leak, you have to push that radiator with a decent load to drive up the water temps, run it for a while, and monitor it. Then, if it does leak, you're stuck unscrewing everything, reseating the gaskets, tightening it back up, and checking it all over again.
If they aren't performing that kind of rigorous quality control, then well... this stuff is going to happen more often than it should. And even then, there's no absolute guarantee, is there? A component could easily work itself loose during shipping, or perhaps you tighten a hose in your own chassis just enough to trigger another leak down the road.

Tell me, did you perhaps try tightening that seal a bit?

If my memory serves me right—and it’s been quite a while since I last looked into this—there are certain advantages to running a waterblock, mainly because you get much more efficient cooling for the GPU core, the memory modules, and all those other little components that matter. It essentially gives you more headroom to push the voltage higher if you're feeling ambitious. Personally, I couldn't care less about the aesthetics; my rig is tucked away in a closed chassis where nobody can see it anyway. However, the prospect of better overclocking potential combined with a whisper-quiet system during heavy loads? Well, that sounds incredibly appealing to me. 😁
But let's be honest, once you start adding up the costs, you could probably build an entire secondary PC for what you'd spend on a high-end liquid setup. 😁

Kimberly Gomez34 said:Generally speaking, it’s unnecessary. It acts more like a status symbol—a bit of flair to go along with a high-end PC—rather than a genuine requirement for most users. I’d bet my life savings that a huge chunk of their customers never even touch their CPU overclocking settings. Most people just buy it because they can, and naturally, they want to brag about having liquid 😁

Plus, if we're talking custom loops, there's definitely a certain fun in the assembly process. 😁
And while I have your attention, what's the verdict on GPUs? Can a water block actually outperform a solid aftermarket fan setup? By that, I also mean, can it be significantly quieter under heavy load—assuming a little overclocking is involved, of course?

Are you talking about an all-in-one water cooling loop, or just liquid cooling in general?

Hmm, I can’t quite tell if there’s a slow leak right where it’s tightened down, or if I’m just obsessing over some microscopic hairline crack. It’s a bit strange, isn't it?
Look, if the power is still on, why don't you grab a piece of toilet paper and just lightly dab that space between the gold-plated fitting and the black tubing? If the paper picks up any moisture, you'll know immediately whether you're dealing with a faulty gasket or if the connection just needs a better tighten.

driftingdrifter88 said:I’m right there with you.
But when you drop $250 on a unit and it shows up dead on arrival, that's a different story.
It’s such a headache they don't carry these at Best Buy... if they did, I could just walk in, get my money back, and maybe they'd even throw in a credit for the trouble.

Does anyone have a solid recommendation for an air cooler? I'm running this on my i9.

Look, defects happen. It’s just part of life.
Even if a little bit leaked somewhere, would it really be the end of the world?
Beyond that, it’s standard industry practice to stress-test any installation that has even a slight risk of leaking—whether it's inside a PC or not—before it ever goes live. Of course, this assumes you’re doing regular maintenance; you have to open up your case every few months to clear out the dust anyway.
Take me, for example: I’ve been running an NZXT Kraken X63 for several years now, fully aware it has enough potential to soak two incredibly expensive GPUs, and yet, I sleep perfectly fine at night. In fact, I’m already planning to move over to a custom Corsair loop soon. 😁

There is absolutely no logical reason for condensation to be forming on a pump, let alone a single solitary drop. It’s leaking. Return it.

Where on earth did this droplet come from? Any chance you could snap a photo?
I’m clearly not firing on all cylinders today, but how in the world is your CPU temp sitting lower than the ambient room temperature on a water cooling loop?

So, you went ahead and put the fan back in. Did you actually remember to apply some thermal paste this time? 😁
That chip is just an I/O controller; honestly, it can handle temperatures up to 120 C without breaking a sweat.

Try switching over to the arrow keys or the numpad—specifically 8456—provided that doesn't end up messing with your controls. Honestly, I think you'll find it much more intuitive; after all, anyone who relies heavily on WASD is almost certainly utilizing QERFC as well, and having those extra keys surrounding you on the numpad just makes sense, doesn't it? 😁

Is this being played online, or did you actually sit down and test it offline? If you haven't tried the offline route yet, I'd highly suggest you go do that.

Man, before you kicked this thread off, I hadn't even realized Intel was still in the game, and now suddenly I’m hearing rumors about VGA cables being back in the conversation too. 😁

There’s an old saying floating around—it's probably about two minutes old—that goes something like this: "Price isn't a measure of quality; quality is its own metric." 😬
I have lost count of how many times I’ve personally witnessed expensive hardware fail to deliver even a fraction of the performance its price tag suggests, while simultaneously seeing budget-friendly gear punch way above its weight class and prove its absolute worth.
And if you bother to spend any time lurking on tech forums, you'll see it all over the place: high-end motherboards, top-tier CPUs, and flagship GPUs failing just as miserably as the cheap stuff... honestly, at that point, you have to wonder if you just have the kind of luck where every other component you touch turns out to be a dud. :tužnić:

Honestly, when I really sit down and think about it, complaining about AMD is a bit like complaining about a budget TV you picked up at Walmart for $167. I mean, come on, if you’re shopping strictly on a shoestring budget, shouldn't you expect exactly this kind of performance? 😬

Honestly, if you had actually owned a computer at any point over the last thirty years, you wouldn't be sitting there just spitting on AMD. 🙏

If you're looking for the absolute easiest way to expand your network capacity and get more devices talking to each other, just grab a switch. And for heaven's sake, make sure it's a Gigabit one.

Look, I’m not actually suggesting you go out and buy a blank board; I just sent you that link to illustrate the layout differences—specifically the distinction between the 104 and 105 key versions—though if you're into those smaller 80-plus key models, those are an option too. But honestly, I'm a bit baffled by your claim that there isn't much variety available here in the States. If you look at sites like Best Buy or even specialized retailers, I see well over 80 different models listed. Isn't the vast majority of them standard US layouts? The issue is that the product photos on those websites are often misleading, typically displaying the US version regardless of what's actually in stock. You really ought to call ahead to verify, or better yet, just head down to the store and check it out yourself if you haven't already.