Posts by Keith Reed62

Jeffrey Hughes2 said:I realize that to land an entry-level role, I really ought to know CSS and HTML alongside Python. However, a friend of mine managed to land his first gig with nothing but Python knowledge. I’m leaning toward starting there because I’ve heard it’s the "easiest" to pick up—that you can grasp the fundamentals quickly. Then, once I add some frameworks and a bit of JavaScript into the mix, I figure I'll be ready to find work...

You've got it wrong.
Companies are going to want database knowledge, at least a basic understanding of windows administration and package installation, setting up databases, servers, and Docker.
Git is non-negotiable.

Beyond that, you need to understand MVC concepts, REST API basics, and so on.

People write a lot of nonsense about what being a programmer is actually like.
I'm telling you this from direct experience.
If you do manage to find a job, it'll pay a bit more than minimum wage if you have the skills I just listed.

So, please stop posting about things you don't actually understand.

And if you think you're going to find a job easily with just Python, you aren't.

It's primarily used for AI and Data Science.

Whatever you are programming, you need a solid background in that field.

It isn't any easier or harder than PHP or Go.

In fact, at a professional level, it's quite difficult.

Good luck!

bluecyclist64 said:Honestly, where are you even going to find a job with just a little bit of Python? These days, every random person claims they "know" how to code.

You've got it wrong.
It’s just a lot of people who *think* they know what they're doing.
It isn't any easier or harder than learning any other language.
The jobs are there, just not locally here in the States.
If you look for remote work, there's as much opportunity as you can handle for any language.

As for programming—if you have the right mindset, you'll learn it; if you don't, you won't.
And be prepared to pivot: one day you're working in Python, the next it's Node.js, then Go, and so on.

Morgan Ortiz6 said:A buddy of mine has a 10-inch Netbook with 1 GB of RAM, and he just bumped it up by another 1 GB. Now, every time he powers it on, he just gets a black screen.
First, it displays F-15-first boot device and F10-BIOS settings options, followed immediately by a prompt asking to "ENTER CURRENT PASSWORD." He’s completely stuck.

I suggested we just wipe it and install a fresh OS. I tried rebooting the machine and hitting F9, but instead of getting into the boot menu, it just hits him with that same "ENTER CURRENT PASSWORD" prompt again.
The exact same thing happens when he tries pressing F10.
Does anyone have any idea what's going on here or how we can fix this?

Try resetting the BIOS. It used to be done via jumpers on older machines, but I'm not sure how they handle it nowadays.
Check the motherboard specs.

Steven Stewart3 said:Honestly, it might be better to just hold onto the house. If that loan was taken out way back in '84, once you factor in all the interest, the debt could easily end up being worth more than the actual property itself.
1. Can you please tell me—is it actually possible for them to start forced collection proceedings?
I’m asking because, honestly, that company from Canada barely even existed a little while ago, and then suddenly I look it up and they're apparently doing fantastic business.

I don't see why anyone would bother with a settlement when the situation is so black and white. I know exactly what it means to have a claim recorded in the public land registry. Maybe there's some shady business going on regarding the legal succession of the company.

2. Here's another thing: if, say, someone took out a $1,000 loan from General Electric back in 1984, how do they even calculate those interest rates now? It seems logical to me that the interest rate should be explicitly noted in the public record.
3. Everything is listed in dollars, so how do they determine what that debt was worth in terms of purchasing power back then? Like, if it says $80,000, how am I supposed to figure out what that amount actually represented in today's money?

It looks like I might lose my house over some trivial nonsense, and man, it's been 35 years! If $3.25 that were the case, we're talking about a massive amount of money. My mom has an apartment in her name, plus those vacation rentals by the coast... they could take all of it... oh my god.

There are exchange rate tables available; there are even ones dating back to the Austro-Canadian era.

http://www.kunalipa.com/katalog/teca...-1966-1991.php

http://www.kunalipa.com/katalog/teca...-1913-1945.php

There is a 1:100 denomination. If my math is right, looking at 1980, the table shows $1 equals 29 units, but you have to multiply that by 100.
That makes $1 = 2,900 units.
Your best bet is to verify all of this directly with the bank.

In your specific case, 80,000 units / 2,900 = roughly
$27.5.

I remember when a loan taken in '80 was still being paid in the early '90s—the principal was worth about as much as a matchbox.

Just keep in mind that interest rates in the '90s were sky-high, and they were calculated according to the law—compounding interest on top of the interest.

shadowangler said:Yeah. The contract states if you miss a payment, they charge the maximum interest allowed by law. Basically, for every dollar you borrow, you end up paying back $333

That’s not quite right. If you don't pay on time, they charge statutory interest, which caps out at around 12% annually, or whatever the current federal limit happens to be.

And just so you know, if you miss the deadline, they go after your assets. First, a process server or a notary sends a notice, and if nothing is paid within 8 days, then the collections and legal seizure process kicks in.

When you submit an application at Ally Bank, you'll be redirected to the global guarantees page once you hit confirm.
However, if you don't accept those terms and finalize the guarantee, the loan won't even move forward for approval.

On top of that, they require a signature on the contract they send over.

If you’re just looking for a quick thousand bucks, fast loans are fine, provided you aren't overextending yourself.

The best option on the market is Cash Expert; there are zero hidden fees, and it takes about 3 to 5 hours from submission to payout.

Once the application is submitted, they call you within 2 to 4 hours, and after you confirm during that call, the funds hit your account in 1 to 2 hours.

They are polite, professional, and so on... if you can't make a payment, they offer extensions. Also, the amounts, number of installments, and installment totals are all clearly listed on the website.
The fee is slightly higher, but if someone needs cash in a hurry, this is a really solid option.

wearymoose28 said:I need to get an e-signature set up for my company... there isn't any fee for that through the UN, right?

And once I have the certificate, can I just upload it to Adobe Acrobat for free later on?

I have no clue; you should check with the Federal Reserve.

Gregory Gomez54 said:Hey there
Does anyone know if there's info out there about integrating electronic signatures into a custom software build?
Basically, I'd want my app to generate a PDF, then shoot it over to a web service. Once the recipient signs it electronically, the service would just ping me back—maybe via email or some kind of SMS alert.
Anyone familiar with a service that actually does that?

If you're looking for a service, try this:
DocuSign

ExxonMobil might have something similar, though I haven't looked into their specifics too deeply.

Also, the industry standard is UN.

rapidnomad322 said:I might be posting this on the wrong thread—sorry about that, guys, I’m just kind of in a rush to get some info.

So, basically, I’ve got my digital ID through the government portal, you know, like those official apps where you can pull up all your electronic records, birth certificates, work history, and stuff like that. Anyway, I'm looking at applying for a job soon, and I was just wondering if they’d actually accept those printed-out digital documents as legit proof, because I mean, logically they should be fine, right? Or am I going to have to spend my whole week running around from one DMV office to another just to get physical copies of everything?🤷

Thanks!

They want to, and they have to, because a key is generated—you'll find it at the bottom along with the verification link—which can be used to confirm its validity...

If I'm paying via recurring automatic transfers from my checking account, is keeping a copy of the contract enough, or should I also be archiving every single transaction and bank statement?
For instance, things like supplemental health insurance premiums or similar...

On another note,

Just out of curiosity, let's say a bill or a fine goes unpaid—say an invoice for $X arrived at a house back in 2001, and it was never settled. Has the statute of limitations run out, and can a company still legally pursue collection?
Let's assume there hasn't been any activity since 2001—no reminders, no liens, no court orders—and 12 or more years have passed...