stormypuma7 said:you didn't catch the whole thing... "The results were nothing short of amazing, as I was able to reach 2.8 GHz on the standard 1.4v voltage and with standard Intel air cooling."😲 😬
Well, sure, but honestly, you rarely see them pushing past 2.9GHz...🙂
Well, hitting 2.8GHz would be an absolutely stellar score for a processor like that... though, if you're really aiming to nail that specific number, you might find yourself needing to pick up a brand new cooler just to keep things from overheating 🙂
Well, you might want to try tweaking the ratio so your CPU hits that specific overclocked sweet spot you're aiming for, while keeping the memory frequency sitting right around 400MHz... As for the voltage requirements for DDR, I honestly couldn't tell you because my experience has mostly been limited to SDRAM and DDR2 🙂 🙂
Well, I think the solution is pretty straightforward if you just adjust the ratio to bring those frequencies down... even though it looks like they might be pushing past 470MHz once you crank up the voltage a bit more...
Casey Williams5 said:Well, if you're looking around Washington, D.C., you can actually find standalone potentiometers or even some specific parts for $50... .
You really can't go wrong with adding some fans to your case... I always tell people that you absolutely need them if you want things running smoothly! My own little rule of thumb is to have at least one intake fan pulling cool air in, paired with two exhaust fans at the back to push all that nasty hot air out of the system... Honestly, I actually keep the side panel of my rig completely open, and just by doing that, I managed to shave about 3 or 4 degrees off my temps, which was such a relief...
Because let’s be honest, Typhoon is an absolute legend when it comes to coolers, and you just can't find anything else quite like that masterpiece...
If you look at Typhoon, Sonic, or even SCYTHE—most of those models out there—they really are just solid, reliable, and super budget-friendly coolers that get the job done perfectly.
Thermaltake V1 - It’s almost laughable... you really shouldn't even mention that thing in the same breath as the Typhoon.
Now, if money isn't an issue for you... I'd suggest looking at what was mentioned earlier or perhaps grabbing some SHARKOON 120mm SilentEagle 2000 fans.
If you wire them up to a potentiometer... you can keep them running at a full 12V when you're pushing for an overclock, but for just your everyday, standard tasks, you could dial them down to about 5 - 7 V—meaning roughly 2000rpm during an OC and dropping to a quiet 1000rpm for normal use 🙂
It’s a passive setup, which really means you should probably aim to mount two 120mm fans right up top to get things moving...
Now, I feel like Papst has gotten a bit overhyped lately, and honestly, their build quality seems to have slipped just a touch... If absolute silence is your north star, then sure, go with Papst... but if you don't mind a little extra hum, you can find much more affordable fans that'll do basically the exact same job for a lot less cash 🙂
So, my best advice is to focus on finding fans that offer the highest possible airflow
Well, let me tell you... I really think the absolute best move here would be to go with two 12cm fans that have really high airflow ratings... It would be great to have at least one fan pulling fresh air into the case and then maybe two others acting as exhaust to push all that hot air right out...
With that Cooler Master Hyper 212 cooler, you could actually bump that CPU voltage up to 1.6V without breaking a sweat... 🙂
darkhawk76 said:Man, you really talked that thing down! There's no way I'm ever going to be able to sell it now after hearing all that...😁
So, I think I'll just go ahead and order the Cooler Master Hyper 212, and then we'll see how things go once I get it installed.
Well, geez, if the max FSB is only 537... we're definitely going to have to push it pretty high to get what we want...🙂
And hey, if you do decide to pick up that cooler... make sure you grab two really solid fans, because that unit actually ships without them—it basically just sits there acting as a passive heatsink.
You absolutely have to let me know how the results look once you've got the new setup running!👍
Hmm, revisions... honestly, I don't know the exact manufacturing details or all the technical nuances right now, but I suppose it really boils down to the silicon quality and a few other little specifics...
Alternatively, you could just grab a Cooler Master Hyper 212 and mod the fan with something better that offers higher airflow, sort of strip it down to the base and call it a day...
Po me, I’d say the Intel Core 2 Duo E6600 is actually a superior high-end processor compared to that Go revision Intel Core 2 Duo E6750... sure, the 6750 might boast a higher maximum FSB, but since the multiplier favors the 6600, it pretty much cancels out any advantage in overclocking potential...
Anyway, if you end up selling that processor, let me know! 😁
But honestly, my main question is just how they actually went about taking these measurements... I mean, was the base surface properly polished? Is the processor itself somewhat concave? What kind of thermal paste did they use, and how much did they actually apply? Did the heatsink seat perfectly against the chip, or was there some gap? Plus, I’m wondering about the noise levels compared to the actual cooling performance—what RPM were they running during the tests?
The thing is, we don't have any answers to those questions because they were being completely clueless... There is absolutely no way in a real-world scenario that a Zalman would ever beat out the Big Typhoon—it's just pure nebula...
3.5 - 4.0GHz. This motherboard is absolutely killer by the way! 🙂
Honestly, that Freezer is going to be your weakest link here... the processor sits right in the middle of the equation, though it really all comes down to which specific revision you've got, but man, that board is legendary... easily one of the best for overclocking 🙂
I’d suggest checking what your max FSB is before you worry about anything else... you can actually find that max FSB by dropping your multiplier down to the lowest possible setting—I think it's 6x—and then just pushing the clock...
Once you finally hit that max FSB—let's say it's 500 MHz... if you do the math, you get a theoretical maximum of 4500MHz... but keep in mind, you're only ever going to pull that kind of top-end speed if you have some seriously heavy-duty cooling involved
Do you even know which voltages you should be tweaking yet? Just make sure your temps don't climb past 61 degrees... you'll want to keep a close eye on everything using the Core temp readings 🙂