It basically works like this: the second a bank pulls up your name, they can see if you’ve ever messed up your finances somewhere else—how much you owed and exactly when that mess was reported... You can even see if you actually settled things or if you're still underwater... Some banks will demand proof that the debt is totally cleared, and then it’s really just up to them whether they decide to approve your loan or not. As for those "debt consolidation" loans designed to pull you out of the red, those are specifically meant for people trying to clean up all their old financial mistakes. The terms are a bit different, obviously, but I guess, based on how they run things, you shouldn't have any real issues...
That Intel card you’re holding—I'm guessing it's for a US dollar account? If so, you can pretty much use it anywhere as long as you actually have the funds. Though, I guess it’s hard to know how you'd even end up overdrawn on a foreign currency account... If you're hitting an ATM in another country, you'll just get whatever local currency they use there. As for fees, yeah, you're gonna pay them. It follows whatever the rules are in that specific country. Like, if you've got dollars in your account but you're pulling out, say, British pounds, there's going to be an exchange rate difference, and you'll get hit with a transaction fee. Same goes for when you're buying stuff at shops.
I’ve been listening to all this noise about Diners Club, but honestly? I think it just comes down to self-control. Even that 11% interest rate isn't actually that terrifying if you aren't reckless... It sounds kind of stupid because when you're young, you feel invincible. Like, if you have the cash upfront, who cares how you pay it back later? But man, you gotta be careful—you only live once... 😁 Anyway, I finally got my PIN for withdrawing cash from a Diners Club ATM today, but that’s exactly the kind of thing I’m never going to do. I got this card to make paying for stuff easier, not to pull out twenty bucks just to watch it hit my bill next month... 😲
I filled out my application online through the JPMorgan Chase website, and it took them about ten days or so. From what I heard, they have to run things internally with your employer to verify all the info you put on the form... Just give it a few extra days, more or less. 👍
I’m the new guy in The Diners family, so if anyone could drop some tips 'n' tricks, I would be SUPER grateful! Honestly, I just got my card a few days ago, and now I'm kind of freaking out about messing something up. I mean, I get the basics—it's a credit card, you pay back what you agreed to in installments, and if there's interest, it's just whatever Diner's rate is set at, right? But I'm looking for those little details they don't exactly broadcast to you! THNX! 😁
Look, from what I gather, you can pretty much move your direct deposit to any bank you want. You can even ask them to match the overdraft limit you had at your old bank. But, you’ll probably have to wait until your first paycheck hits and show them a statement from your previous bank so they can see exactly how much credit they should extend to you. Basically, you just pay off the balance at the old bank once the money hits the new one, then you can shut that old account down immediately. It’s really just transferring your standing from one place to another. 🙄 Regarding the cards, you BETTER do your homework here. There’s a massive difference between a CHARGE card and a REVOLVING credit card. With a CHARGE card, you’re paying off the full amount you spent by the next month. With REVOLVING, you just pay back a specific percentage that you agree on when you sign up—usually somewhere around 5% or 10%. 🙂 There are other nuances with REVOLVING cards too, but that’s getting into some complicated policy stuff, so I won't go there... Don't think I'm saying you can't get it, it's just kind of a pain to explain like this... 😉 Hope that helps... 👍
Look, I’m telling you from experience here; all you really need is a valid ID, and maybe have about $5 on you just to cover the initial account activation fee—though the bank usually just hits you for the debit card and PIN setup later anyway. You don't even need to close it, since they don't charge you monthly maintenance fees like they do with a standard checking account, and honestly, you never know when you might actually need it again.
You can swap it out at a > branch, but there’s a catch; if the bill is damaged and they can't see the full serial number, they'll hit you with a fee—I think it's about 1% of whatever amount you're bringing in, so maybe 2 >. You could probably try any big bank, but I guess at > they just didn't feel like dealing with the hassle! Don't even bother trying at a currency exchange.😉