Posts by fadedorca66

I don't know, this smells like a power supply issue to me... Does this happen with any other games, or are they all just as demanding as this one?

Whatever, at least they got you sorted out quickly. I guess they'll just keep running tests on the components...

Maybe look into consolidating those three loans into one single payment, plus all that credit card debt. I guess there might be some options for loan deferment too, so it's probably worth asking about.

Good luck with the job hunt!

Which version of Windows are you trying to install? And did you actually boot from the USB via BIOS mode?

Huh, I gotta admit, I haven't heard of them selling Windows like that before.

I don't know, it probably should be working in UEFI mode. Maybe try switching up the USB ports.

How'd you get Windows onto a thumb drive?

Grab the Microsoft
Tool
here to burn those Windows files onto a USB drive:https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10

Make sure you switch the boot mode back to UEFI before you start installing.

If your mouse and keyboard are still acting up, try plugging them into different ports on the back of the motherboard. I noticed yours has two USB 2.0 ports, so maybe just stick them in the black ones.

I can only charge you for diagnostics if it turns out the issue is actually rooted in your settings or Windows itself.

Maybe try loading the XMP profile in your UEFI if you haven't already. If that doesn't work, I guess you could try lowering the RAM speed; it might just be causing some instability.

Grab this tool and send over some screenshots of those BSODs:

https://www.nirsoft.net/utils/blue_screen_view.html

Man, you and your obsession with using WD-40 on electronics. There’s really no place for it there. If you actually want to clean stuff, you should be using contact cleaner or some isopropyl alcohol. Using WD-40 will probably wreck your PC before you even finish fixing it. Especially if it's a new build—I bet Best Buy would void your warranty the second they caught a whiff of it.🤦

Edward Evans7 said:They actually rolled out that new feature in the Verizon app just the other day.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy A20 via Reddit

I was thinking the exact same thing.

So, if you haven't already, just sign up for the Verizon app and head over to More > Profile > Payment Deferral.

Honestly, that power supply is more than enough; I doubt his setup pulls even 250W

rapidorca6 said:Thanks for the replies. Honestly, I’m pretty sure I’m nowhere near experienced enough to pull this off on my own without messing it up. I wasn't planning on sinking too much cash into this drive anyway—the enclosure ended up costing me way more than I expected, plus the service fees...
If I decide to just bite the bullet and scrap the data, can I assume it'll work fine if I just convert everything through Disk Management?

Yeah, probably.

For what it's worth, TestDisk actually worked for me when I needed to grab files from a dynamic disk. The interface is a bit clunky since it runs in the command prompt, but if you follow a decent tutorial, you should be able to pull your data back. Maybe just look around online for a guide.

Bryan Taylor6 said:Maybe try disabling AntiMalware and see what happens.

The GPU usually pulls max power during games regardless of settings.

If a fan is acting up, you might be dealing with high CPU or GPU temps.

If it’s still under warranty, let them handle it.

If the issue is actually with Windows, they'll probably charge him for it...

You should probably check the Event Viewer to find out why a specific app keeps crashing.

Maybe don't go poking around if you aren't sure what you're doing; there's probably a better chance you'll just break everything instead of actually fixing it...

Look, if you aren't planning on dropping money on a beefy GPU (and judging by your posts, you won't—you're more of a casual gamer, so you probably don't care about 4K, 144Hz, or cranking everything to ultra settings), then I guess the 1600 will get the job done. If you have an extra $200 lying around and don't mind burning it on a CPU just to maybe feel a tiny difference one day—go for it.

I don't think you can squeeze any more out of a budget that tight. Maybe just check if there happens to be a board in that price range that actually has heatsinks on the VRM.

Those are all just bottom-tier power supplies, and honestly, they’re pretty much all the same. For starters, there isn't even a specific model or brand listed, so we're basically flying blind. Between Spira and EZ cool, I guess EZ cool looks better on paper, but those specs are usually just stickers. They always lie about those cheap units, claiming some peak wattage they can only hold for maybe ten seconds before dying. 😬

My advice is to stay far away from these budget units, but since the PC is old, I suppose it'll do its job for a bit. Just make sure it's at least new...

Actually, it’s kind of the opposite. You really should be basing this on the stress tests, since that's the whole point—to make sure your overclock is actually stable. If it crashes like this, you might be mid-boss fight in some game when you suddenly hit a BSOD and it's game over 😬

The software is probably fine, but I guess your overclock isn't 😁