I don't know, man. Personally, I wouldn't advise him to pair a brand-new GPU with an old Microsoft power supply, especially one that’s been sitting around for years. Sure, it might run fine at first, but who knows how long it'll actually last? Even worse, if that thing pops, it could take other components down with it. In my book, it's just not worth the risk when you can grab a decent new power supply for maybe $50 or $60. My advice? Tell him to pick up the PSU now and just save up for the graphics card through the end of the summer. Then he can install everything with total peace of mind.
That power supply is total junk. 😁 Honestly, I wouldn't dream of hooking a decent GPU up to that thing. Sure, a GTX 950 or a GTX 960 doesn't pull massive amounts of power, but I still wouldn't take the gamble if I were you.
8GB is still plenty for what you're doing, and it's easy enough to upgrade once you actually hit a wall.
Instead of blowing your budget on an SSD—I'm guessing you were looking at a cheap 120GB model for maybe $117—you'd be much better off putting that money toward a reliable unit like a Fortron Hex 400 w 80. If you get a solid PSU, you can drop a graphics card in there and actually sleep at night. Grab the SSD down the road; it won't change your gaming performance one bit.
Your internet connection seems fine. The only issue you might run into is if download speeds feel sluggish because modern games are getting massive, in which case you might want to look into a faster plan.
As far as I know, we still haven't seen the official system requirements for Call of Duty, so it’s a bit hard to say for sure. Your CPU should still be doing its job just fine, but when it comes to $333, you aren't exactly spoiled for choice with graphics cards. The best new card you could realistically pick up would be a GTX 750 Ti, or maybe find a used GTX 950. If you're willing to shell out a few hundred dollars more, you might even score a used GTX 960... What kind of power supply are you running? Honestly, that's the most important factor here.
Adam Moore3 said:Do you have the rest of the rig already? For $500 SOMETHING LIKE THIS, $17it’s actually noticeably stronger than anything else in its class. If you drop down a notch, you’ve got the GTX 950, but that thing is clearly weaker. If you’re looking to spend around a grand, the R9 270 is your best bet, and HERE you can find it cheap.
Honestly, at the same shop for the same price, you can grab a Gigabyte R9 380 with a year more warranty than that XFX XFX click (it says it's out of stock right now, but I'd still ask because they sometimes have stuff listed as unavailable that's actually sitting in the back 😵 )
In this specific bracket, the absolute best value is definitely the R9 380.
If you wanted to "cram" a beefier GPU in here... 👍
1x AMD FX-8300 1x LC-CC-95 CPU Cooler 1x ASUS GA-970A-DS3P 1x Gigabyte GTX960 IX OC, 2GB GDDR5 1x Kingston DDR3 HyperX Fury, 1866MHz, 8GB Black 1x Western Digital Blue 1TB 3.5'' 1x XFX TS Series 450W PSU, XFX-P1-450S-GREN 1x Mid-Tower Black
Total: $1493
Here’s a rough idea of how those titles might run on this setup:
Far Cry 4 Assassin's Creed Syndicate Call of Duty: Black Ops 3 (BETA) Mad Max The Witcher 3 Fallout 4 GTA 5
Look 😁 the processor isn't even meant for overclocking anyway—it stays cool and doesn't pull much power. Plus, that motherboard isn't actually all that bad; it fits right within the budget and gets the job done 🙂
Just one Intel Core i7-4770K. Just one Corsair CC 95. I've got one ASUS Prime Motherboard on hand. I've got one NVIDIA GeForce GTX 970 on hand—the TTOC edition with 4 GB of GDDR5 and a 256-bit bus. Just one 8GB stick of Corsair Vengeance DDR3 running at 1866MHz. Just picked up a single 1TB Western Digital Blue 3.5'' drive. So, I picked up a Patriot SSD Blast R560/W425—it’s a 120GB, 2.5-inch drive in that standard 7mm form factor. Honestly, at this stage, it's really just about getting a basic boot drive under my belt without breaking the bank. It’s nothing fancy, just a straightforward little solid-state drive to get things moving. One single Corsair 600W unit. Just one Zalman Z1.
Jesse Flores11 said:Hey, which one of these two cards is actually better? The PCI-E NVIDIA GeForce GTX 970 Strix OC, 4GB DDR5 http://www.asus.com/Graphics-Cards/S...X970DC2OC4GD5/ or the PCI-E EVGA GeForce GTX 970 Superclocked ACX 2.0, 4GB DDR5 http://www.evga.com/Products/Product...04G-P4-2974-KR My future build: ASUS Z170 Pro gaming motherboard Intel Core i7 6700 k Cooler processor Noctua NH-U14S cooler 16 GB PC-17000 G.SKILL Ripjaws 4 series memory 2000.0 GB WESTERN DIGITAL Caviar Black hard drive Graphics card: ? ASUS DRW-24F1MT/BLK/B/AS DVD±RW COOLERMASTER HAF 912 Advanced case 750W ANTEC EDG750 EC power supply Planning to play at hd 1920 x1080 on ultra or high settings I'm willing to set aside $1333 for the GPU The shop I'm looking at: Best Buy
Since you’ve got a beefy enough power supply, you might want to look at the R9 390 instead. It actually pulls ahead of the GTX970 in pretty much every game title.
If you're dead set on picking one of those two, I'd go with the EVGA model.
Just make sure you steer clear of those old TN panels. You’ll definitely want a DVI input, too—both of my current rigs use DVI on the motherboard to push 1080p, so it needs to match. And obviously, try to snag one with the longest warranty possible. By the way, what kind of budget are we looking at for this monitor?
So, how much extra are you actually looking to spend? If we aren't even counting those cheap overseas retailers, the cheapest R9 270 out there is an XFX model with two years of warranty left, which gives you $0.40, while the EVGA GTX 950 comes with three years of coverage, adding $0.43. Now, just look at the math: you get a 🙂 noticeably more powerful card, lower power draw, better thermals, and an extra year of peace of mind with the warranty... In my book, those $29 extra bucks are totally worth it 😉
Honestly, you could just pick up an EVGA GTX 950. It draws less power and actually gives you a nice little performance bump, so you won't have to stress about upgrading anything else for a while.😛
Why don't you just lay it all out for me? Give me a solid estimate in dollars—including tax—of what you think you'd actually drop on this. Then we can see how that stacks up against reality.
Exactly. Over at their place, N/A is priced at $498 if you're paying cash, whereas over at Best Buy N/A goes for $492/ in uppercase $501/ and so on, you get the idea... i5 4460 ends up being 1.601,10dollars cash, while Best Buy $486/ Micro Center $487 / Newegg $506 .... So just look at the math—if you're building out an entire rig, you could easily save up to $0.33 .