Kenneth Nguyen35 said:Right now I'm running an ATI Radeon 2600 Pro. It might be a bit weak, but I'm not exactly a power user. I'm planning on swapping it out, though all I know for sure is that it uses PCI-E, not which specific version.
So I'm looking at two options... A Sapphire ATI 4650, which uses some kind of PCIe 2.0, but I'm not sure if it'll work with my motherboard. And A Zotac 9400 GT Synergy Edition (which I think is a cheaper Nvidia option) that is PCIe 2.0, though it's compatible with 1.1.
I'd appreciate some advice on which way to go. I don't really need a high-end gaming card, so I'd prefer if we didn't get any suggestions from $333. These are slightly above my usual budget, but not by much.
Thanks!
It doesn't really matter if it's PCI-E 1.1, 2.0, or whatever else; everything is backward compatible.
If you aren't gaming, why bother with a new graphics card at all?
@Paul Ross81/">@@Paul Ross81 What resolution are you running? What else is in the build?
@Casey Palmer9/">@@Casey Palmer9 It's a 4890 Vapor-X. Generally speaking, the 4890 performs better than the GTX 260. It’s more in the same league as the GTX 275. I think overclocking a 4890 past 1 GHz isn't really an issue if you do it manually at home, so there isn't much point in paying extra for a factory OC. The Vapor-X has a really solid cooler—much better than the stock one found on the standard 4890 (the kind seen on the more expensive 4890 models). It should handle things just fine, even if you decide to volt mod for a 1GHz+ core clock overclock.
When you say it restarts, does every single light actually go out? Like, the DSL, WLAN, and LAN indicators—everything except the power light? If it's just the internet connection indicator blinking off, then it's pretty obvious what's happening. I deal with disconnections about three times a day myself; it's probably just bad AT&T service or some crappy wiring in this building...
That basically means your processor is pulling an extra 170 million cycles per second. It sounds like a massive jump when you put it that way, but we’re really just talking about 0.17 GHz. I don't think that translates to being able to run much more demanding games. If your CPU is already hitting the bare minimum requirements for a title, it might launch, but the performance will probably still be pretty questionable. You'd likely see maybe a 2% boost in performance—which isn't much at all—meaning if you're getting 20 fps, you might bump up to 21. If the game is stuttering now, even overclocking it to 3.5 GHz probably won't fix the lag.
I didn't feel like digging through 50 pages of posts, so I apologize if I'm repeating something already asked. Basically, I want to install Windows 7 without having to reinstall all my programs from a different partition. Is it possible to export the registry from Windows XP, install Windows 7, and then import that registry into Windows 7 so that all those programs on the other partition are recognized in the registry? The XP installation is 32-bit, while the 7 version is 64-bit.
I think you might be conflating hardware issues with software ones. If the system isn't crashing—or if specific apps aren't failing when they demand more CPU power than just basic browsing—then overclocking probably isn't your culprit. Pulling the battery just reset the BIOS to its factory defaults.
Are you sure the internet connection is actually tied to the overclock? That shouldn't really be an issue unless we're talking about general system instability or something similar. And what specifically isn't working? Is the browser failing to launch, or is it just refusing to connect?
It might be, but it also might not be—you probably don't want to know 😁 That's just a generic, off-brand power supply, and those are never reliable. When you're looking at a GPU, the most critical thing to check is the amperage on the +12V rails. Play it safe and just go with what Tamb suggests.
If there isn't a specific power supply listed on the spec sheet, it's probably just one of those cheap units that comes bundled with the case. Those kinds of power supplies are basically junk; they might seem fine under a light load, but the second you actually try to pull that full 400W, they tend to fold under the pressure.
Kyle Sanchez4 said:an HD 4890 paired with a Corsair 400W CX
I have a basic Sapphireov 4890. You can easily install either a Musashi or a Twin Turbo on it, though I’d suggest keeping the stock shroud to ensure the VRM cooling stays efficient. Personally, I’m running the Scythe Musashi. The 4870 and 4890 share the same screw layout around the core. Additionally, the 4890 features larger VRM areas, which makes cooling them a bit easier. You might run into some issues if you're planning on CFing, but if you aren't interested in CF, then it shouldn't be an issue.
What Casey Long2 mentioned is also worth noting—the stock fans help exhaust hot air out of the case rather than just recirculating the same hot air inside, which is a nice bonus for the rest of the components and the card itself. If you switch to an aftermarket cooler, you'll lose that benefit... but hey, you can't have it both ways.😁
Keith Hall43 said:Just one quick question for those who actually OWN a 4890 (specifically the standard Sapphire version)... I've heard quite a bit about the noise levels, implying it's pretty loud and draws a lot of power... though the power draw doesn't worry me as much as the noise. Is it really as loud as people say?😁
Regarding the noise, it isn't any louder than your average mid-to-high-end PC build. The stock cooler is over excellent, but at auto settings, it shouldn't exceed 40% fan speed if you have decent airflow in your case. On auto, it does run a bit hot, though. Under full load, it sits around 80 degrees Celsius with the fan at roughly 40%, maybe even lower. If you crank the fan to 100%—which is about 4k RPM—temperatures wouldn't go above 65 degrees, but it becomes UNBEARABLY loud at 100%. It feels like having a jet engine running through your room.
When you're gaming on the stock cooler, the noise increases gradually, so you won't really notice the volume spike, but I definitely wouldn't recommend manually pushing it above 40% because of the noise level.
That issue is easily fixed if you pick up an Accelero Twin Turbo or a Scythe Musashi. 👍
It’s pretty obvious you don't really get how hardware works.
Sam Edwards5 said:so I just turned on the cooler and added another core and another heatsink from an old P4 at 1.7 so I bumped the clock up to 266, and I disabled the temperature control in the BIOS so the system shuts down if the CPU starts acting crazy.
I honestly didn't understand a single word of that. Maybe try using some punctuation.
I think the temperature is fine; you might want to change the thermal paste, but it isn't cause for concern.
Jeremy Ward12, the power supply should hold up. John, I'm thinking maybe 15-20... if not even less. Odabrani2, take a look. tu Over the next few pages. It isn't a massive difference, but it is noticeable.
Timothy Barrett3 said:I feel like this HD5850 might be a bit of a power hog, but I'm not entirely sure. Is it actually worth picking up? Are there noticeable differences compared to the HD4890? I see it's going for under $200, which isn't too bad.
I think getting the HD5850 is a good move. It's true that prices will likely drop. If you aren't in a rush, maybe wait for things to settle down a bit, and then potentially grab another one for CF in about four months or so. If you need it right now, though, I'd just go ahead and get it. 😁