You can just plug the cable straight into a USB 2.0 port on your laptop and it'll run at the max speed that port allows. They’re physically identical, after all.
Look, it's obvious—every newer (and cheaper) series comes with less toner. But for his printing volume, it doesn't even matter. Whether he burned through 100 cartridges over 5 to 10 years or $67, it’s all the same in the end.
Is this http://www.bestbuy.com/printer-canon-pixma-ip7250 actually any good? I just need something for home to print maybe two or three pages every once in a while. Or is there something better or cheaper out there, specifically regarding the cost of replacement ink where each color is $8.00$? If anyone has direct experience or even just some general advice—thanks! 👍
Android / TT
Does it really have to be a color printer? Honestly, none of those dirt-cheap inkjet printers are a smart move. If you want a laser, check out this one. A toner cartridge (like an HP LaserJet 85A) that lasts for 1,600 pages is pretty cheap—under $33$—and at your usage rate, you won't go through the starter ones anytime soon. It'll definitely outlast an inkjet, and you'll deal with way fewer headaches.
The Seasonic ST50F-ES and the Seasonic ST50F-ES230 (the title actually mislabels it as the ST50F-230, which is an old model they don't even make anymore; the actual product ID says ST50F-ES230) are both Sirtec OEMs and pull the exact same wattage on the +12V rail. Based on this, the only real difference is the connector layout and the fact that it isn't 80+ certified—though since it's a newer unit, it probably picked up an 80+ rating by now, the specs just haven't been updated yet. And this looks pretty solid to me.
We're talking about a German brand found in basically every shop across Germany. I find it hard to believe a German company would mess around with fake labeling.
It would be pretty helpful to figure out who the actual manufacturer is.
Most of these parts look practically brand new, so just shave about 20-25% off the retail price and try your luck. The drives are probably worth a little more than $67 total, but you didn't say anything useful about the power supply, let alone the case.
Not quite. That 336W figure represents what the PSU can (theoretically) pump out through the +12V rails—which is basically what every single component actually draws. That’s the only number that truly matters when you're looking at wattage. Reputable manufacturers label their units based on what they can actually deliver on that +12V rail, whereas the shady ones just add up all the different rails. Honestly, some of them just pull numbers out of thin air; you can easily find some cheap junk from a random overseas factory labeled "600W" that only puts out 160W on the +12V line.
And just to be clear, that 80+ certification is strictly about efficiency, like I mentioned. It has absolutely nothing to do with the wattage printed on the sticker.
fadedbadger11 said:here’s the sticker http://www.purepc.pl/files/Image/art...P_Art/400W.png
So basically, it can output 336W, which is 84% efficiency—putting it right in the 80+ Bronze category, right?
Efficiency isn't what you see on that sticker. Efficiency is the ratio between the power delivered to your components and the power pulled from the wall outlet, and that's specifically what 80+ certifications measure.
The 5750 is a massive step up, and you’d definitely feel the difference. $133Sure, the price tag might be a little steeper than what it actually ought to be, but we're not talking about a total rip-off.
fadedbadger11 said:Sure, both power supplies can handle my rig—no argument there! What I'm actually trying to figure out is whether one of them loses more energy during conversion when we're pulling, say, 200W. Keep in mind they both claim 80% efficiency, but one is 400W and the other is 500W.
EVGA just has the standard 80+ rating, while the EVGA ECO has 80+ Bronze, meaning its average efficiency is higher. If you want the exact numbers for specific loads, you'd need to track down a full review for both units, which might be a bit of a hunt. Honestly, though? They're both so close in efficiency that it's hardly worth losing sleep over.
I haven't come across APC before, but from what I'm reading, you can't beat the value. Getting 80+ Bronze for $90? That's a steal. Honestly, looking at the specs, I’d take that over the Corsair any day—though even with the Corsair, you wouldn't be making a mistake. Both should handle the job just fine. http://www.realpower.de/product_info...us-bronze.html
Mobo - $180-$200 CPU - $150 RAM - $100 GPU - $200 HDD - $280 PSU - $200 Case - Used to be super expensive, can't really put a price on it now Monitor - $350
You aren't going to find a better card at that price point; honestly, you'd probably be better off hunting down a used one. That said, for what you're trying to do, this will get the job done just fine. There’s really no point in picking out a more powerful card when the rest of your build can't even keep up anyway.
That’s not how it works. You don't just go by what the label says; you actually have to use measuring tools. What’s printed on the sticker doesn't mean much in reality. 🙂