Posts by Adam Moore3

For real though, is it a G3220 or an i3 3220? 😁

You constantly take one specific instance and try to generalize it, making inductive leaps about an entire brand.
Your counterargument—basically, "Person XY bought an XFX card and it died, therefore XFX sucks"—is flawed. You're suggesting that because a card costs around $1000, we should pay 3600 just because it's MSI and supposedly built better so it won't fail. That logic is insane. Go ahead and buy whatever you want and overpay for refurbished cards just because someone once had a bad experience, but suggesting that to other people on this forum who don't care about brand names? Not cool.

Just like crimsonstag84 said, nobody was attacking MSI here. We were talking about a specific situation where paying that much money made zero sense because a) it simply wasn't in the budget, and b) it's an older generation that pulls more power while offering half the VRAM (which, lo and behold, actually turned out to be useful).

In this case, besides being a great model, it’s also a fair price and a smart value, so it definitely deserves a recommendation. There isn't a better deal out there for that specific card. Regarding that other situation you keep bringing up, NISI right, just like everyone else was telling you. It was obvious, but you refused to see it (or couldn't), and you're still acting salty about it today. 🙂

EDIT: Looks like Timothy Kim60 beat me to it.

Man, fadedorca66, $33 the more I look, the $50 more I think I could just aim for a Seasonic Titanium 😬 I was actually weighing the option that crimsonstag84 mentioned. It's 80+, delivers solid 12v output, has plenty of protections, and it’s cheap. Honestly, if I were building a budget rig, I'd rather grab this and squeeze $33 a better GPU instead of the Hex. Looking at it roughly, the PSU seems like a total steal for $77. My only hang-up is that there are zero reviews out there, so I can't be 100% sure—that's why I asked.
Anyway, it's bought and I'm diving straight into the install. Hope I didn't screw up 😁

A buddy of mine is picking up a power supply for an FM1 build—running a 3670K and an RX 460 coming soon. We’re on a tight budget, so we're trying to save every cent possible. I read somewhere that these newer LCov units aren't actually bad. Newegg Thoughts? It’s 80+ Bronze, has plenty of protections, and a decent 12V output. Getting 17A and 14A on the dual rail. I can't find any reviews anywhere, which is the only reason I'm even looking at it, despite hearing they're a great value. I know the Hexa $33 costs more, but we don't have much choice since we're stuck here in Cleveland.

Well, I figured maybe someone else had messed around with this before and actually has some experience under their belt 😁 It's not like I'm expecting to push past 3.3 GHz anyway—this isn't exactly a high-end motherboard or a top-tier cooler. I'm running an LC CC 95 and an ASRock A75M HVS. Worst case scenario, the system just crashes and that's that, right? RIGHT?! 🤔

Man, a G4560 + RX 460 combo is about $1000. Honestly, those two might just be the best value duo of all time
.
EDIT: I meant the build using those two 😁

Wait, I haven't been keeping up with anything lately... So this Pentium is actually a Kaby Lake dual-core with Hyperthreading enabled for once? Basically an i3 for $167? 😲

Yeah, that's what I figured. Honestly, it's not such a bad chip. It probably won't handle BF4 with 64 players on Ultra settings, but you should be able to run most single-player games just fine. That is, assuming we aren't talking about titles like Dishonored 2 where even i5s struggle because of terrible optimization.
Btw, regarding overclocking, can I push it to 3.3 without bumping up the voltage? It's sitting at 3.0 right now, and temps barely even hit 40.

crimsonstag84 said:If you bump the clock up by 10% over the Phenom II X4 9xx, they're basically equal. You'd need to hit about 3.2-3.3GHz to match an X4 945, and honestly, I think you could have even dropped the $17 😁

The HD 7850/7870/GTX 660/660Ti is the ceiling, yeah. The GTX 1650 is just a tiny bit faster or right around there.

There’s a great saying: "Something is only worth what someone is willing to pay for it." 🙂
Whatever, there's hardly any LGA 1156 CPUs around here, let alone quad cores at a decent price. It's similar to Sandy Bridge. It isn't anything special, but because it's rare, anyone who actually needs a Sandy Bridge CPU or motherboard will pretty much give you whatever you ask if they really need it. He initially asked $350, so I pushed him down and he dropped it to $300. Because, you know, I still had to cover the $13 shipping costs.
So it was either $300 plus $40 for shipping, or sticking with that A4-3300 which can't even handle HD video on YouTube. 🤣

So with the Hex overclocked to 3.3-3.4 GHz plus a GTX 1650, it should be a pretty solid setup for gaming, hopefully. Also, how much stronger is the A8-3850 series compared to the A6-3650? I mean CPU-wise—I know the integrated graphics are better. Is it the exact same architecture just with a higher clock, or is it a matter of better Intel or something like that?

A buddy of mine is running an LGA 1156 setup. He started out with some weak dual-core—I think it was an A4 3300—but I tracked down an $100 A6-3650K for him, so he grabbed that instead. The motherboard is actually decent enough, and since we picked up an LC CC 95, I’m planning to overclock the CPU by a few hundred MHz.
Now we're hunting for a GPU. The PSU is just a generic budget unit for now, but we'll be upgrading to a Hexa soon. Honestly, I don't see much point in going higher than a GTX 1650, which probably won't happen anyway, so I'm looking at used cards on eBay. I'm assuming there's no need to aim higher than a 7870 or a 660Ti/760? How much would a mid-range 3670K bottleneck something like a GTX 1650?
I hope I didn't mess up by picking the 3670K; it's roughly in the same ballpark as those old Phenom II chips, right?

I'm feeling pretty lucky today—just scored a $100 Razer DeathAdder on Craigslist with a full year of warranty left, plus the receipt, the box, and everything else original 😍

Like the title says, my beloved Logitech G700 is finally starting to flake on me after many, many years. I think the sensor is just dying; the cursor gets erratic, stops responding, or just acts weirdly. I'm looking for a replacement. I really love the shape and have gotten so used to it, so I'd prefer something similar if possible.

I assume everyone is going to suggest the Logitech G502 or the Logitech G402, but dropping $400—$200 well, being a student and all—isn't exactly easy for a mouse, so I'm looking for other cheaper options. In this link, there's a G402 $133 which is a decent price and one option I'm considering, but I'd love to hear some suggestions in lower price brackets. So, what are the current best buys in the $20-$30 $133 range, for example? Just like how Fireglider or the Logitech G400 were always recommended for ~$67 back in the day, is there anything similar today? How is Razer doing in that segment? What about Corsair? Or maybe something from Razer?

It'll primarily be for League of Legends, if that matters, though I play all sorts of things. But since it's mostly LoL, I don't need any fancy gimmicks meant for Gamers. 🙂

We also need to keep in mind that the Athlon 860K is running at stock clock speeds. You could see some pretty significant gains if you decided to overclock it 🙂

They really ought to have a 14-day return window, no questions asked. I once picked up a Cooler Master U2 laptop cooling pad, but the fans were just way too loud for me, so I requested a return and they handled it without any hassle. I'm not entirely sure if the specific payment method affects the process, though. Logically, it shouldn't matter.

Steven Stewart3 said:hmm 🕺 might be worth the risk after all...

Look, that graphics card is a total waste of money. It’s either weaker than or just as weak as the integrated graphics found in some processors; buying it is basically throwing cash out the window. Unless you're looking to gain maybe a handful of FPS, it's not worth it—you might see a tiny improvement, but dropping $500$200 on something like that is insane.
If I were you, I'd try to get rid of it immediately. Return it, get your money back, and figure out a realistic budget for a PC that actually makes sense. What you bought is quite literally a dead end in every possible way.
You won't be able to use it for any serious gaming, you can't upgrade to a better CPU because the platform is bottom-tier and a dead end, and you can't invest in a better GPU because the CPU will just bottleneck it.
Bottom line: you bought a massive piece of junk. I have no idea how you could just drop over $2,000😵 on something like this
without asking anyone for advice first.

neonowl67 said:About a year ago, I picked up a new build with an i5 4460, 16GB of RAM, an SSD, and so on... plus a Radeon R9 380 Strix, though I had to settle for the 2GB version because I was short on cash for anything higher. Now, I'm looking to ditch the Radeon R9 380 and grab something with 4 or 6GB instead. Any suggestions? I'm planning on buying used.

Look, it doesn't really make sense to buy a card in the exact same performance tier just to get more VRAM. If you're looking at something newer, getting a Radeon RX 480 or something in that ballpark would actually be worth it—but you aren't going to find those cheap on the used market. Maybe a GeForce GTX 970 if you stumble upon a good deal on eBay, though even then, it's not a massive leap.
What exactly is making you worry about the VRAM capacity? Sure, modern games can utilize more than 2GB, but is it really such a huge issue that it forces a GPU upgrade? Are you trying to play at resolutions higher than 1080p, or are you just unhappy with the raw performance?

It honestly breaks my heart to see stuff like this. An AM1 build with a GeForce G210 claiming it "can run anything alive for $767." 🤦 I really wish there was a way to hold people like this accountable for spreading such nonsense.

I honestly think the Skylake i3 build that Robert Rodriguez2 put together beats out the FM2+ setup any day. It’s definitely more futureproof, and in my experience, that i3 is going to outperform the Athlon most of the time, even if it doesn't have those extra physical cores.

Heh, just throwing this out there...

1x ASRock Z170A-X1
1x Intel Core i5-6500
1x 600W FSP Fortron/Source Hyper M
1x Zalman Z1 NEO mid tower case
1x MSI GTX 1080 Armor 8G OC
1x SSD 240GB Kingston UV400
1x HDD 1TB Toshiba, 3.5", 7200RPM
1x DDR4 8GB (1x8GB) PC3-17000 2133MHz CL15 Crucial

Total: $10,$28 Adm

In case you want to play at some higher resolutions.

Hmph, you wouldn't believe it. Even with a 500 MHz increase on the base clock, I'm only seeing 4460, yet it’s still slower. I didn't realize the IPC jump on Skylake was actually that significant.