Something along those lines... you'd probably have some room to play around with overclocking on the SkyOC UEFI. 😛
EDIT: Yeah, I removed the processor 😁
Man, just go for this one. It has everything you actually need. i5 + GTX 1070. The only thing missing is 16 GB of RAM, which you can always upgrade whenever you feel like it. ☕ If it’s under $1,500, obviously.
What on earth? We’re talking about a $5,000 build here, yet you’re rambling about VR, G-Sync, a GTX 1070, and wasting money on an unlocked CPU paired with a motherboard that isn't even meant for overclocking—not to mention that $267 power supply. Seriously? What? 😲
That’s a socket 775 setup, so any dual-core should work. He doesn't necessarily need a quad-core, but he definitely needs an Intel Core 2 Duo series—that'll give him a massive boost. If he can hunt down a used Intel Core 2 Duo E8XXX, it'll make using the computer so much smoother.
You can definitely hang onto the power supply. What kind of case are we talking about? You can probably keep that too, provided it isn't some ancient relic with a built-in floppy drive 😬 Which Hard Disk Drive are you using? Here is an option that includes the Hard Disk Drive but leaves out the case:
ASRock H110M-HDS, s1151 Intel Core i3-6100 AMD Radeon R9 380X G1 GAMING, 4 GB DDR5 1TB WD Blue Hard Disk Drive, 3.5", 7200RPM DDR4 8GB (1x8GB) PC3-17000 2133MHz CL15 Crucial,
Total: $3,$308 ebay.com
If you stick with your current Hard Disk Drive, you might be able to squeeze in an i5 if you make a few other compromises.
Look, I'm putting this rig together for my buddy, and honestly, I know about building PCs just about as much as he does (which isn't much).
Here's the build I've got, and I'm stretching the budget to its absolute limit $967. Without the case, the total comes out to $945, looking at prices from Best Buy in Chicago (hoping to grab everything from one spot) . Now, is there anything here that's just extra? Anything we could swap out to shave some cash off the price? And would it be worth it to squeeze in two more sticks of RAM if we can find the savings elsewhere?
You're posting in the wrong thread, but whatever. Regarding the build itself—it could definitely be better.
AMD Athlon x4 860 k MSI A68HM-E33 V2 Corsair Value select 4 GB SAPPHIRE nitro Radeon ™ R7 370 2 Toshiba 1TB 3.5" 7.2k EVGA 430W Mercury 2 Case
Total comes to roughly $969 via Amazon if you use the 3% discount from registering on the forum. You should be able to find those $2.00 😬 somewhere. Anyway, you get a pretty decent GPU for that kind of money. For some reason, an NZXT case costing $50+ was included in a $967 build, but in my opinion, that's just unnecessary. If my friend can scrape together another $15, he could probably go with an FX 4300 and a decent motherboard with USB 3.0, but that's his call.
EDIT: Also, it beats crimsonstag84's list; he can always add more RAM whenever he wants.😬
Robin Young7 said:Maybe around... $467But if you start haggling, prices might even drop lower...
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Reddit wtf, that isn't even an offer, it's a total scam. 😁 You can barely find any of them around here for...$500...and you think that's an "offer"... $33 Got it now. For those... $467 You should be able to snag a GTX 1050 Ti that’ll actually be a much better card once it drops in a week or two. Whatever you do, don't grab that one now. It just isn't worth it... $333 I’d give that some serious thought before doing anything, especially if we're talking about $1,400. 🤣
Robin Young7 said:Hey there. I'm being offered this graphics card and I'm trying to figure out which motherboard would be compatible, plus I need a decent processor. The PC will mainly be for gaming. I already have an FSP 550W power supply and 8GB of Kingston DDR3 HyperX Fury RAM at 1866 MHz.
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What's the asking price? A new generation of cards is hitting the market fast, so unless this is an absolute steal, I wouldn't touch it.
Look, you don't really need liquid cooling, especially for a Skylake build like yours. Just go with the Noctua NH-D14; you honestly can't go wrong there.
feralrider92 said:The title pretty much gives it away—my CPU temps are hitting 96 degrees at most. I'm just running the stock cooler right now, but the thing is, they haven't always been this high. I tried swapping out the thermal paste, and I even had a buddy lend me his stock cooler for a bit—but honestly, it didn't make much of a difference. I'm planning to pick up a new cooler this fall, but I really need a fix before then—unless there's absolutely nothing else I can do, in which case I might just go ahead and buy one now.
Thanks in advance!
Hmm, you aren't the only one dealing with this. CLICK CLICK Try touching the heatsink, but be extremely careful. If it feels genuinely over 90 degrees, then that heatsink is running incredibly hot. If it doesn't feel hot, there are two possibilities: either the heat isn't transferring properly to the heatsink because it isn't seated correctly on the CPU or the paste is bad; or the second possibility is that your readings are just wrong. Even though a stock cooler isn't ideal for an Intel Sandy Bridge i7, if you're saying it wasn't running this hot before, it shouldn't be doing this now. You definitely need to grab an aftermarket cooler, though, as soon as possible.
frozengull44 said:I can't find an EVGA 400 W1 here in Canada. I did find an EVGA 500 W1 and a Corsair RM600, and they're both about the same price—around $65. Which one should I go with?
EVGA is fine if you can be certain it’s in good shape, like no bulging capacitors or anything similar; it doesn't even have to be brand new. If you're buying new, definitely grab the EVGA 500W over the Corsair. Just stay away from that specific Corsair series.
frozengull44 said:This might be slightly off-topic, but I didn't expect this much drama over a power supply. Will a Corsair RM550x work? Just to recap, I'm looking at a PC with an i5 650 and I want to drop a GeForce GTX 960 in there.
Hmm, about that—it’s definitely a few tiers above what you were using before and probably would hold up, but there's no telling how long. Theoretically, it should be fine since the 12V rail output is sufficient, but that specific unit isn't exactly known for high quality. Plus, it's an older model, so I'm guessing you pulled it out of some dusty box in your garage? 😬
frozengull44 said:Yeah, exactly. Does it make any difference if at least you know who the manufacturer is?
Nope, you can't just grab some random no-name power supply from your garage with 20A on the 12V rail and expect to slap a $500 on it. I mean, you probably could, but you really shouldn't 😁 What else is in your build? If the parts aren't massive power hogs, you could get away with an EVGA 400 W1. That's about $100
Where on earth did you even find that? 😲 There’s absolutely nothing about this on Google—literally zero hits. This is most likely just another one of those sketchy, no-name junk brands. I’d honestly rather stick with my 500W unit from Microsoft than trust that "Palantir" thing. 😬
If you're set on sticking strictly to Western Digital, then you should just grab the cheapest Seagate BarraCuda you can find. Make sure it's 7200 rpm, though. I think the most budget-friendly option is over at Best Buy KLIK
crimsonstag84 said:He's stuck with an old GTX 750 Ti, but a GTX 1060 is easily twice as powerful...😛
He could definitely go higher with that Intel Core i5-2500K; even a GTX 960 runs on it without much trouble. Sure, in some heavy CPU-bound titles he might not hit 100% GPU usage, but that's no reason to settle for anything better than a 750 Ti with that processor. Especially if he overclocks that Pentium just a little bit, man... 🙂 CLICK
There's really no point in arguing about which one is better; you just look at the reviews and check the standard benchmarks to see the winner. And honestly, it's Samsung every single time, no question about it. CLICK
You don't even realize the scale of the mistakes you've made here 🤣 Not only did you order a pre-built rig, but you went for a premium pre-built right before a massive new generation of GPUs hits the market. But hey, it's too late for regrets now—if you have any say left in the matter, just go with a cheaper option. 🙂
