Posts by Adam Moore3

Robert Rodriguez2 said:You're my next customer for a PC build, you jerk 😬🤣

Wait, seriously? 🤣 I didn't mean anything by it, I was just joking around 🎉

Keith Harris55 said:I wouldn't bother with a brand-new card. You're better off grabbing something used that still has some warranty left. It's not like your 7870 died; you just want an upgrade... maybe a GAINWARD GTX 760 or something along those lines?

Man, if you're already running a 7870, jumping to anything less than an R9 290 isn't really worth the money. Especially not that GTX 760 you mentioned.

It’s actually cheaper than the 260X at most retailers😲

Robert Rodriguez2 is going to come after you, so watch your back, Eric Brown78 😬

Thank God for the MS Taurus from $33, because if it wasn't for him, I wouldn't have been able to pull the trigger on the R7 260 x 😬

That Asrock board isn't actually that bad. For a budget build without any crazy bells and whistles, it gets the job done. It’s definitely not bottom-of-the-barrel like those cheap H81 motherboards you see everywhere; honestly, looking at the features, it might even outperform some of the B85 models out there, so...

Dual-channel RAM is a must for any APU build

Timothy Kim60 said:Fine by me. This thread already has useful links alongside Best Buy, so I might as well drop some helpful images from those sites too. 😁

Anyway, RAM prices are still dropping:

by the way, that shop is just a retail outlet for Micro Center.

4GB 1866 mhz RAM

Timothy Kim60 said:Different brands shouldn't be an issue. There's a tiny chance his RAM might not be compatible, but he'd have to be incredibly unlucky for that to happen. If it doesn't work, he can just return it easily.

It shouldn't matter, though there's even less risk if he just grabs another stick of Kingston to match what he already has. It's not a huge difference, but still... there's a difference.

At the end of the day, it doesn't really matter—the R7 is just a GPU, even if it turns out to be a 260X (though I doubt that, seeing as it’s practically a pre-built setup using a Spire power supply). Either way, there's a massive performance gap between the 260X and the 280/960. The main thing is to swap out that power supply and make sure he grabs the exact same RAM kit, or at least something from the same manufacturer.

The power supply is garbage, specifically:

1 x DDR3 4GB (1x4GB) Kingmax, 1600MHz, FLGF
1 x Sapphire R9 280 3GB OC Dual-X, 3GB GDDR5 384bit, 28nm
1 x Fortron 500W Hyper Power, PPA5005003, 12cm fan

$785admin.com

Just make sure to check the exact RAM specs using CPU-Z. You really need to grab an identical match if possible, because sometimes different sticks just refuse to play nice together.

slysurfer14 said:Intel Core i3-3220 CPU @ 3.30 GHz
4.00 GB RAM
ASRock H61M-DGS R2.0 motherboard
AMD Radeon R7 200 Series GPU

My son just got a raise at work and wants to pick up a new graphics card. Budget is up to $1000...
Looking for some constructive suggestions and advice on where to find the best deals (maybe somewhere in Chicago?) Thanks in advance!

Which exact card are we talking about? You mentioned the series, but not the specific model. Since it's an R7, it's likely some kind of 260X or 250X. Also, you really need to tell us what power supply you have before we can recommend anything. Regardless, the absolute most I would pair with an i3 is an R9 280 or a GTX 960; anything higher than that doesn't make sense because the bottleneck will be massive. You'll see it pop up occasionally in CPU-heavy games, but it's still worth getting something in that tier. For the best prices, check out: CLICK CLICK, though I'd personally steer clear of eDigital since people have had extremely negative experiences with them.

Joshua Ramos14 said:Look, you could grab a GPU for $267, some condoms for $67, a bottle of Jack Daniel's, a little coke, and some roses... and you'd be playing the new FIFA on Full HD settings while scoring goals in an AFK world 🙂

...if you really want Nvidia, just wait a few weeks for that new one this guy mentioned to drop 🙂

👍 👍 🤣 We're talking PES and FIFA here; you can easily run those on a 260X for about $300 at max settings

Look, the guy just wants to play PES and FIFA, yet you all are arguing over two different GPUs just because one supposedly has "better" Vulkan support 😬 He should honestly just grab the cheaper option since either card will handle those games perfectly fine 😁

Robert Rodriguez2 said:It’s not about how we interpret what we read that makes you look foolish; it’s the comments and "facts" you throw out when you clearly have no clue what you're talking about.
Especially when people are providing evidence from multiple sources and you just keep arguing for the sake of arguing, just spewing nonsense... It’s not even an issue for those of us who know better; the problem is that someone clueless might come along, read your "wisdom," and end up breaking their gear.

Just stay calm, Robert Rodriguez2. 😬 It’s incredibly easy to mess this stuff up. By any standard logic, increasing the voltage on any component beyond what the manufacturer specified should ALWAYS be a bad move. However, in practice, things work differently; an inexperienced person can easily screw up because, well, common sense doesn't always apply in the world of hardware. 🍿 rowdybadger18, a bit of friendly advice: if you want to avoid getting chewed out by the veterans here, try reading up on a reliable site and actually citing your sources instead of making assumptions that more experienced users are telling you are wrong. 🙂

When you stumble upon a high-end build that’s perfectly assembled, comes with all the warranties intact, a nearly complete set of peripherals, and an aftermarket cooler—all for half the original retail price—that is a massive win. If we were talking about some ancient setup with zero warranty, I might see your point, but this rig is only five months old. On top of that, everything still carries more than two years of coverage.

David Sanders4 said:but I have no clue how you landed on 12 or 13; to me, that just looks like a solid deal, though nothing earth-shattering🤔

Alright then, build it up component by component and you'll hit that 12k mark.

EDIT:

1 x ASUS Z97-A, s1150, ATX, Intel ® H97 express
1 x Intel Core i5-4690 (3.50GHz,1MB,6MB,84 W,1150) Box
1 x Gigabyte GTX970 WF3 OC 4GB GDDR5, GV-N970WF3OC, 256 bit,
2 x DDR3 4GB (1x4GB) Kingston, 1866MHz, CL10, Kingston Fury, HX318C10F
1 x HDD Seagate 1TB, Serial ATA III, 7200 rpm, ST1000DM003
1 x Intel 120GB SSD 525, mSATA 25mm, R/W:550/457MB/s
1 x Napajanje Corsair 600W CX Series, 600 Watt, ATX, CMPSU-600CXV2EU
1 x Cooler Master Hyper T4
1 x Cooler Master Case, with window
1 x Dell E2414H 24", 1920x1080, LED, fast 5ms respose time, 1000:1
1 x Razer Naga 2014, 19 MMO optimiziranih programabilnih tipki
1 x Logitech G105 Gaming Keyboard, USB, žična, Korištenje do pet tip

$3980admin.us

Some items weren't available so I swapped them for something similar. A controller isn't included here either.

Honestly, I’d almost want to get this mouse just to prove all you skeptics wrong, rather than for the mouse itself 😬

Robert Rodriguez2 said:you're gonna end up with nothing but scraps😬

Look, there's a massive difference between someone trying to flip something worth $167 for 130, and someone selling a 12 or 13 million dollar asset for half price. So, please excuse me, 😬 🙂

David Sanders4 said:👍
on TechPowerUp, their testing shows this thing runs a full 11°C cooler than the Noctua NH-D14🐔
here's a decent deal on a full build

Wooooo
That hardware is worth like $12k, but he's offering the whole setup for 6, and it's still under warranty. I don't know, sounds even more insane than my G502 I grabbed for 😲 on eBay $40 😬