Posts by Adam Moore3

It's a tough one. You're looking at a different motherboard, a different BIOS, and completely different hardware altogether.

Wait, why on earth would you need an aftermarket cooler for an Intel Core i3? Is it actually overheating? 😲

fadedorca66 said:Grab Hiren’s Boot CD, run the more intensive test, and if it flags the drive for replacement, just snap a photo, print it out, and take it straight to the warranty claim.

As for the lag and slow boot times, that’s just what happens with those crappy 5400k drives. Even at my job, we're running i7s and Core i5 4200 m processors, and everything still boots painfully slow—those disks are just garbage, I guess.

Can I just throw this on a USB drive and boot from there? I haven't actually used it anywhere yet. Honestly, it really baffled me at first—I'm running a Core i5 4200 m, which is more than a solid processor by any standard. I even bumped the RAM up by another 4 gigs, so I'm sitting at 8 GB now. I keep the thing well-maintained, cleaning it out and making sure nothing unnecessary is hitting the startup, but still... It’s just that there's a massive amount of data sitting on here, which definitely isn't helping, especially considering this thing is just a 5400 RPM piece of junk. 😁

Kimberly Gomez34 said:That second error also points toward a hardware issue. Here’s the deal: The Calibration retry count is the number of times it's had to recalibrate itself to aligning the heads with the tracks so it can read data appropriately.

Honestly, there's no way to know if it's just a false positive or if things are actually going south. That said, both programs flagged the same thing (the spin up time). If everything seems to be running smoothly, you might be fine, but it would be smart to back up anything essential—like your tax docs, sensitive files, etc.—to another drive. Don't bother backing up hundreds of gigabytes of games or movies; forget it, you can always redownload them if you have to. How much warranty coverage do you have left? If you've got plenty of time, you could just keep an eye on it for a while, but if the warranty is about to expire, it might be worth filing a claim 🤷

Before you do that, though, maybe try an official diagnostic tool from Seagate (I believe it's called Seatools). You can find some links here

BTW, we have the exact same wallpaper (footpaths)—that image is so fitting right now lol

CrystalDisk shows the exact same thing for me—Calibration retry count is blue, meaning everything is okay. I don't get why HD Tune shows red for spin up time after a restart, because the numbers are within the normal range now, yet it keeps throwing that red warning. 🤷 Yeah, definitely, I'll move all my important files over to my desktop too. I still have warranty until October, so about a month and a half left. I'm not sure if they'll even honor the claim; I really don't want to ship my laptop away for two weeks to a service center just to have it sent back in the same condition. All my college work is on there, everything is organized... if I move to a different computer, I'll have to redo all the annoying setup for programming, compilers, and all that, which sounds like a massive headache. 🥱 I'll think about it. I've run into this topic before, so I'll check those links and maybe try Seatools. One thing that confuses me, though: when I Google ST750LM022, I see both Samsung ST750LM022 and Seagate ST750LM022 results. I have no idea who actually manufactures these things. 🤷

Best wallpaper ever. I need something calming right now since I have to study for my third attempt at finals😬

UPDATE

Since most people I looked up online say this spin-up time issue usually happens when waking from sleep mode, I decided to try a full restart. I haven't actually shut down my PC in ages—I just let it sleep. Well, after a reboot, CrystalDiskInfo shows everything in blue and says the status is good. However, when I KLIK in HD Tune, it makes zero sense. Now the spin-up time is showing as 93, which matches what CrystalDiskInfo says, but HD Tune keeps throwing an error for it. I don't get why. 🤷 Honestly, it feels like a false alarm, but I'd still love some confirmation just to be sure.

Kimberly Gomez34 said:Hey, check if your hard drive happens to have a firmware update available click
Is your boot time slower than usual? That spin time error usually suggests the drive is struggling to reach its required RPM

Have you tried running some other tools, like HD Tune, just to double-check the health status and run an error scan?

Alright, I'll try to track down some new firmware. Should I look for it on the HP site or go straight to the manufacturer's page?

Regarding boot speeds, it hasn't actually gotten any faster. I think the issue is just the sheer amount of junk that needs to load at startup before anything can actually run. You've got Catalyst, the integration drivers, that Rapid Storage crap, 3D Drive Guard, some DTS audio driver, and then the antivirus. It technically boots quickly, but it takes forever to actually "wake up" and reach full speed while all those services initialize. Honestly, it’s not that surprising given how much software is fighting for priority, especially since two-thirds of the drive is already full... it's just a lot to handle.

Ran the HD Tune test, here are the results... HELP So, it’s showing up exactly like it does in CrystalDiskInfo, except now I’ve got a warning on this one too... 🤷 Honestly, the laptop itself is fast and works great—I can't really complain. It isn't even that old, so I find it hard to believe the hard drive would fail this quickly... 🕺

Angela Flores4 said:If you’re just using the old-school copy-paste method, then it takes up exactly as much room as the files themselves, doesn't it? Honestly, if you suspect your drive is on its last legs, now really isn't the time for philosophical debates over storage math; shouldn't you be frantically moving those files to safety before everything goes south? Get the data off first, and then worry about the troubleshooting later—I certainly learned that lesson the hard way.

Is there seriously no easier way to handle backups? I am not manually copying 500 GB... where am I even supposed to put all that?! 😲 I mean, I’ve already saved the most critical stuff—that part's done. Between games, downloads, and about 50 movies, that's roughly 350 GB right there, leaving just the system files and essentials. What I really want to know is if I can make a full system backup through Windows so I can just hit restore later if things go south. I am definitely not copy-pasting 500 GB manually; I'm not a maniac, and I don't even have the space to store all that extra junk.

Angela Flores4 said:First things first, make sure you back up everything onto a separate drive. 😁

How long does it take to back up about 500GB of data?

Okay, I’m starting to seriously panic here. So, my laptop was just in sleep mode, and when I woke it up—bam—this pop-up appears telling me my hard drive is in bad shape and might fail any second. I just clicked "remind me later." 🙂 I went to grab a CrystalDiskInfo screenshot just now, but that error message popped up again. Here is the CrystalDiskInfo screenshot KLIK and the screenshot of the error message KLIK. The only thing highlighted in red is the spin-up time; everything else looks fine, along with whatever is cut off at the bottom. I did a little Googling and read that spin-up time is often a false alarm. It says the value is 1, which makes absolutely no sense to me.
The laptop itself seems to be running fine; maybe the boot time is a little slow, but otherwise, it's perfect—fast, no freezing, and zero Blue Screens of Death. I know this might be the wrong subforum, but since it's an HDD and those go into desktops too, I figured I'd post here anyway 😍 HELP 🙂

CLICK If you ask me, this is a killer deal. I don't think there are many left at this price point. It's about $20 over my budget, but honestly, it's a massive jump from that R9 270

Pulling an extra 500 MHz out of an unlocked processor without messing much with the voltage? I don't know, I'm pretty skeptical about that one. Pushing it by 200 MHz is one thing, but anything beyond that feels way too optimistic in my opinion. 🙂

Overclocking? Locked processor, a dead motherboard, a Microsoft power supply... I'm guessing you're running the stock cooler?

crimsonstag84 said:ASUS Radeon R7265-DC2-2GD5 Kingston ValueRAM DDR3 SDRAM Non-ECC
KINGSTON ValueRAM DDR3 SDRAM Non-ECC (4GB,1600MHz(PC3-12800),Single Rank,Unbuffered) KVR16N11S8/4
LC Power CPU Cooler LC-CC-95 - 90mm
Corsair SS-400ET, 400W, bulk

$631 Centro

That's way too much, $433 for a 265i. Other shops have the 270 for the exact same price.

mistyhound94 said:I'm using an EVGA 550W ATX power supply, but the graphics card has me a bit confused. 🤣 Since I bought this PC pre-built, I don't have any of the original boxes lying around (my bad 🤦), so the specs for the GPU are all over the place. I listed the R7 200 series above because that's what shows up when I boot up, but there's a sticker on the card itself that says HD7770 1G GDDR5 PCI-E, so now I'm just lost. 😵

Yeah, the card is definitely a 7770, basically an R7 250X. Your main issue is the power supply; honestly, don't even think about upgrading anything else until you swap that out. THIS is a great deal, for example—grab that first, then you can actually start planning an upgrade. As for RAM, just grab the cheapest 4 GB of DDR3 RAM you can find, and regarding the GPU, there’s no point going higher than an XFX R9 270, otherwise you're just going to run into a massive bottleneck.

Timothy Kim60 said:You mixed this up with the request above. His signature lists an i7 2600 and a gtx 770—switching to a 380 would actually be a downgrade.

feralrider92

It should hold up fine; it pulls about 320W at full load with an i7 4770 k overclocked to 4.4ghz click, though I'm not sure if spending that much on a GPU is really worth it for you. But hey, your money, your choice.

Oh, wow, I honestly thought the guy had lost his mind for a second.😬

casualfox5 said:I've got a really old computer and I don't have the cash to replace the whole thing right now. My main goal is to swap out my graphics card, which uses an AGP slot.
My PC specs:
Motherboard> IBM 8189Y6V
RAM> 1.25GB
CPU> Intel Pentium 4 3.00GHz
Current GPU> ATI Radeon hd 3450 512
PSU> some random 200W unit
I've been running this card for 4 years with this setup.

Don't suggest anything too expensive; try to keep it under $177.

Good grief, why on earth would you want to upgrade that? What are you even hoping to achieve with an upgrade?

feralrider92 said:I'm planning on picking up an ASUS GTX 980 ti G1 in a few months once I've saved enough cash. My only real question is whether it'll actually work with my current setup. I'm mostly worried about the power supply. I think I've got everything else figured out. 🙂

Buying a GTX 980 ti G1 just doesn't make sense. First off, your CPU is way too weak for a card like that—you'd hit a massive bottleneck. Plus, that card is going to run you nearly $2000, which is probably more than your entire rig is worth right now. That would be a crazy upgrade to attempt. You're better off sticking to what was already suggested, something in the ballpark of an R9 380. You might see some bottlenecking there, but it won't be nearly as bad. What do you mainly use this PC for anyway?

Robert Rodriguez2 said:Honestly, better to just save up a bit more $167 and grab a decent quad-core instead. Why even bother with a dual-core? It doesn't have hyperthreading, so it’s going to be a massive bottleneck in games since everything is moving toward requiring four cores anyway.

It makes zero sense to have such a tight budget and blow a third of it on a GPU, leaving you struggling to put together anything that actually runs properly.
Plus, when you want to upgrade later, you'll end up replacing half the rig...
this is from Micro Center
1 x ASUS A58M-K, FM2+, AMD A58 FCH (Bolton D2), DDR3, 2 slots
1 x AMD Kaveri Athlon ii x4 840 3.10GHz processor
1 x DDR3 4GB (1x4GB) Kingston, 1866MHz, CL10, HyperX Fury, HX318C10F
1 x MS ARMOR midi tower case without PSU
1 x Toshiba 500GB, 7200rpm, SATA 6 Gb/s, 32MB, DT01ACA050
1 x FORTRON 400W, HEXA Plus 400, 12cm fan

$639

this one is from Newegg

total: $939 and honestly, it won't perform any better than this

If you're in the NYC area, just go to Micro Center and buy it in person... shipping from Newegg will cost you a few bucks anyway.

Hmm, yeah, true. What you suggested actually makes sense. For practically the same money, you get a quad-core and a 750Ti. And since the 750Ti dropped in price, it was only $304 yesterday. 😲 I'll talk it over with him, definitely a good call. 👍

Kimberly Gomez34 said:It's worth it even if it turns out to be a mistake and it's just the non-Ti 2GB version, because even those usually end up being $33 more expensive
.

For sure, besides, the only thing available from AMD is that noisy XFX 260X for the same price.

Chris Robinson25 said:GPU - MSI R7 260 OC - $283.
CPU - G1820 - $90.
Motherboard - MSI H81 - $107.
PSU - XFX TS 430W - $100.
RAM - Kingston Hyper x Fury DDR3 4GB - $67.
HDD - Toshiba 1TB -$167.
Case - Zalman R1 - $117.

I don't see the point of this? A weak CPU, a weak GPU, a power supply that has an 80% chance of having coil whine, and an overpriced case for $117 in a budget gaming build? 🤔

fadedorca66 said:If they plan on getting into serious gaming later, they'll swap the CPU anyway, so I guess it makes more sense to just stick with an Intel Celeron G1840 for now. There isn't a massive performance gap between that and a Pentium, and you definitely feel the savings in your wallet.

Then you could toss in some extra cash $13 for a slightly faster Barracuda, maybe grab a better power supply or whatever. Newegg's case selection is pretty weak, and honestly, I wouldn't want to blow $93 on that LC Power unit. Maybe think about picking up a decent case for $33 in Chicago instead and build it in there. That way, you might even have enough left over for an extra 4GB of RAM or a bigger HDD.

True, but the Pentium still holds the edge here. He’s looking to squeeze out every bit of performance possible for his budget right now. The Pentium actually packs a higher clock speed and a larger L3 cache. Honestly, I was pretty surprised by that offer from Newegg—usually, I don't agree with their pricing, but this 750Ti is such an incredible steal that you just can't pass it up. You won't find anything even close to that value for the money, not even that noisy XFX 260X unit. Just throw in the cheapest case available... $87 And you're losing the case for that much money? 🕺

Helping a buddy out with a budget of $933 something like this:

1x Crucial 4GB CL11
1x Toshiba 500GB 3.5" 7.2k SATA III 32MB
1x Intel Pentium G3220 processor
1x EVGA Pro-926B Juggernaut X
1x MSI H81M-P33
1x Palit GeForce GTX 750 Ti StormX OC 2GB
1x be quiet! system Power 7 300W total $500 at Newegg

Totaling 2 $286 at Newegg

With the discount applied, it hits exactly $280. That 750Ti is way too good of a deal to pass up, so I tried to squeeze it in. I suggested an APU instead for a more balanced build, but he's set on getting the most raw power possible right now. The power supply looks a bit weak to me; I don't think this setup will pull more than 200W, and since this unit pulls at least 300W, it should be fine. Any thoughts?

What is the SPECIFIC reason you even want to swap out the XFX 7870? It’s actually a pretty decent card by today's standards; if you aren't obsessed with cranking every single setting to the absolute max, it should serve you just fine. If you are dead set on replacing it, you really need to aim high to see a jump significant enough to notice. It feels like a waste of money to drop over fifteen hundred bucks just to nudge the graphics settings up one notch. Or maybe it's just me, I don't know 🤷