Hey everyone, I’ve been dealing with a massive headache regarding my laptop for a few days now. Basically, whenever I close the lid and it enters sleep mode, waking it back up triggers a Blue Screen of Death. I did some digging, and it looks like the culprit is some ETD.sys file. I’ve already tried a clean reinstall of Windows, but the issue persists. I checked the hardware, and while I did find 8 bad sectors, I don't think that's enough to be causing this level of chaos—plus, this laptop is really just a basic machine for browsing the web, so there isn't anything vital stored on it.
Anyway, I’m running the Pro version of Windows 10, and I’m really hoping someone here can point me in the right direction. It is incredibly frustrating having to completely shut down the system, pull the battery, and then cycle the power five times just to get it to boot properly after every single sleep cycle.
Timothy Kim60 said:So, we're talking about the 8-pin CPU connector—the EPS, if you want to get technical. Most modern power supplies have moved toward that 4 + 4 configuration now, where the pins can be split apart. Just so you know, those pins aren't the same as the ones on a GPU.
Some guy told me it’s just like how GPUs work—not all of them have the same specs. Apparently, the low-end models we’re moving don't even come with those dual 4-pin connectors. If that's the case, I'll start hunting around for a power supply that actually fits the bill. Could you please drop a link to that one irrelevant site?
Hey everyone, just reaching out for some advice. I’ve got this server at work, and man, the power supply is absolutely screaming—it sounds like a jet engine taking off because the fans are working overtime. Since the hardware is pretty dated, it doesn't really make sense for us to drop a ton of cash on a dedicated enterprise-grade power supply. My plan is to just swap in a standard consumer unit, but I’ve hit a snag. The motherboard requires an extra 8-pin connection, which isn't the typical 4-pin setup you see on most desktop rigs. I was wondering if I could bridge that gap using one of those Delock adapters—you know, the 2-Molex to 8-pin ones? I've used similar setups for GPUs before, so I'm curious if the pinout is identical here. The only catch is that most modern power supplies don't even come with those old-school Molex connectors anymore.
Timothy Kim60 said:Gary Anderson38, if you're dealing with constant freezing, you might actually be looking at a warranty claim here. Some GTX cards equipped with Micron memory have been notorious for issues like flickering or total system freezes, which forced vendors to push out BIOS updates—though even those don't always cut it. I've seen guys on US tech forums mention that even after updating, the problems persisted on stock settings, eventually forcing them to just RMA the card for a replacement...
Thomas Wells5
Wait, the PSU doesn't have a 6+2 pin connector? And please, let's not confuse that with the EPS CPU connector; we shouldn't mix those up. If that's really the case, just head down to a local computer shop and pick up an adapter.
The power supply is modular; I noticed it has an 8-pin input slot, but the actual cable isn't included in the box. Since I'm working on a friend's PC, I assumed I could just tuck away any extra cables to keep things tidy. The PSU doesn't have any Molex connectors available, so trying to adapt two Molex leads into an 8-pin is completely out of the question. Honestly, I'm at a total loss right now. When I got my GTX 1060, it came with an 8-pin cable specifically designed for modular PSUs, but nothing like that came with this one (and I can't quite remember if the GTX 1060 uses an 8-pin or not, I'm writing this from memory).
Greetings I reached out last week regarding my GPU situation, and the MSI RX 480 finally arrived. My power supply is a Thermaltake 675W modular unit. This new card requires an 8-pin power connector, whereas my old GTX 660Ti used a 12-pin setup. It strikes me as somewhat odd that the card didn't come with its own dedicated power cable, so I'm wondering if there's a way to go out and order that specific 8-pin cable for a modular PSU separately.
wiredotter14 said:Have you tried testing the slots one at a time? Usually, when the RAM fails, the PC will throw an error code on the screen. It seems highly unlikely that you actually snapped both RAM slots; you'd probably remember applying that much brute force just to try and jam them in backwards or something. There's a much higher probability that you bent some pins in the CPU socket, or perhaps there's just a loose connection somewhere.
Older machines used to beep, newer ones kind of beep, but nowadays most of the time the computer powers on, the fans spin up, and then... nothing. Just a black screen.
Over the last seven years or so, I’ve had over 1,000 broken computers pass through my hands. Even if 200 of those were due to faulty RAM, I have never once seen a machine throw that specific error message on the screen.
It’s honestly bizarre for both slots to give up the ghost at the exact same moment. They say one is a fluke, two is a coincidence, but three? That’s definitely a conspiracy. xD Check your monitor and your VGA cable first. If that doesn't work, try clearing the CMOS. If it still won't boot, you might want to look into the power supply. It sounds a bit ridiculous, I know, but back when I was working in service, I dealt with xxx cases where the PC would turn on, yet a multimeter would show the voltages were totally unstable—making the PSU the actual culprit. I'm just suggesting this so you don't go out and drop money on a brand-new motherboard only to find the exact same issue persists.
I’m leaning toward pulling the trigger on an RX 470 along with an extra 4GB of RAM just to have some breathing room, really. My main priority is simply ensuring he can actually run the new Call of Duty without it being a total disaster. By the way, how much of a leap are we talking about here—is the RX 470 actually twice or three times better than his current GTX 660?
Alright folks, I need some guidance on picking up a new GPU for a buddy of mine. He’s currently rocking a GTX 660 with 2GB of VRAM, which is... well, vintage. He’s running an i5 processor (can't recall the exact generation) paired with 8GB of RAM. The real headache is that he can barely limp through the latest Call of Duty; even though the minimum requirements claim his current card should handle it, reality clearly disagrees. I’m looking for recommendations with a budget cap of roughly $500. I was personally eyeing an AMD RX 470 with 4GB, but I'm having second thoughts about that 128-bit bus width—is that going to be a dealbreaker? We’re also planning to bump up his RAM. Since I’ll be pulling this through my company via Best Buy, the pricing is flexible, so I really just need to know which specific GPU models are worth hunting for.
Everything used to run perfectly fine. I was running Unity, 3ds Max, and Photoshop all at once, and it worked great for months.
But then, just a few days ago, my PC slowed down by like half, and I honestly have no clue why. I tried deleting all the apps I don't use, ran some cleaners for viruses, Trojans, and registry junk, you know the drill. I'm using 360 Total Security as my antivirus, and I even turned off the Bitdefender part so it wouldn't slow things down further.
Now, when I open 3ds Max, it takes like 5 to 10 minutes just to load. Once it's open, it's okay, but if I switch over to Unity to get some work done, my RAM just hits the limit, the hard drive goes absolutely nuts, and everything just freezes up.
I tested the RAM using the Windows memory diagnostic, and it passed. I checked the HDD using those built-in Windows tools too, and that passed as well. All my component temperatures seem totally normal, and the fans aren't making any weird noises.
The weirdest thing is, I tried playing Fallout 4—which is pretty much the only game I have—and it runs on High settings without any issues, like nothing is wrong at all.
I'm starting to feel like 3ds Max is just being buggy, because if I don't launch it, everything seems fine, but once I do, it’s like total chaos.
So, question—is there a specific tool I could use to stress test my components? I really want to make sure everything is actually working right and maybe check if there's some weird voltage issue going on. Or maybe I just caught some nasty virus.
Look, just download Hard Disk Sentinel and scan the drive like a normal person.
Everything seems perfectly fine on my end—temperatures are holding steady in that sweet spot of 50-60%. But, turns out I was slightly mistaken when I spoke to him earlier; it appears this whole restart issue is happening exclusively within Adobe Encore while it's busy burning a DVD. Honestly, I’m completely baffled now, haha. I suggested he run a heavy load stress test and just let it rip for about thirty minutes to an hour to see if we can catch it in the act.
Honestly, all of this just makes me nervous because it’s definitely not cheap to fix, and we already checked the temps—they seem perfectly fine, staying around 140 degrees Fahrenheit until they hit about 140... wait, let's say 140ish tops.
My first thought was the power supply when he mentioned the rendering process; I know that's when the power draw peaks, so maybe the unit is finally starting to fail. Otherwise, the Titans are linked via SLI and running fine, so perhaps the issue lies somewhere within that setup.
I actually have a PSU tester lying around, though I'm not entirely sure what kind of insight I'll get from it. If I run it and all the parameters come back green, then I'm still stuck.
There's no warranty left on it, either.
Correction: it doesn't actually shut down, it just force-reboots.
Alright folks, I’m in urgent need of some advice. A buddy of mine is looking for a new power supply unit. Right now, he's running a 1500W Thermaltake, but his rig keeps shutting down randomly, and I'm fairly certain the PSU is the culprit here. Here is the current build specs: 2x GTX Titan Intel Core i7-920 @ 2.67 GHz Quad Core 1x 120GB Patriot SSD 1x 1TB HDD 1x 3TB HDD Thermaltake liquid cooling setup (not sure on the exact model) One small 80mm fan One 120mm fan Two optical drives—one LG and one Lite-On, I think Gigabyte X58A UD9 motherboard (not overclocked, pretty much stock)
Just to clarify, my suspicion leans heavily toward the power supply because this whole shutdown issue tends to trigger specifically when he's deep into a heavy rendering job or mid-game.
Maria Fisher46 said:A slightly elevated total leukocyte count with a normal differential blood count doesn't look particularly concerning to me. It would be wise to repeat the test in a week or two just to track how that number trends.
Furthermore, regarding the symptoms you mentioned (anxiety, tremors, hunger), they sound quite similar to the autonomic or neurogenic symptoms associated with hypoglycemia (low blood sugar). However, the real question is whether hypoglycemia was actually occurring at the exact moment those symptoms hit.
Unfortunately, this specific blood glucose reading isn't reliable because you had a bite of bread within two hours of the draw; therefore, the result doesn't truly reflect a fasting state.
It would be ideal if you could coordinate with your doctor to measure your plasma glucose levels right when the symptoms occur. If the level is above 3.9 mmol/l at that time, then those symptoms aren't tied to hypoglycemia, and you'll need to look elsewhere for the cause.
As for the rest of the results, everything looks normal to me.
We checked my sugar at the doctor's office again—though I wasn't strictly fasting—and it came back at 6.2. They ran an EKG and everything looked fine there, too. The doc concluded that I’m just stressing myself out way too much (which is fueling my chronic gastritis and GERD), so he prescribed Misar 0.25 and told me to check back in with him in about 10 days.
Hello there. I was wondering if Nicholas Myers could help me make sense of these lab results? Because of work, I won't be able to see my own doctor for another two days. To give some context on why I went in for bloodwork—I’ve been feeling incredibly listless lately. Let’s just call it a lack of willpower; it isn't quite exhaustion, more like a total loss of drive. Most importantly, whenever I get hungry, I feel terrible. I get hit with this sudden weakness and start shaking, but after just a few bites of anything, I feel better almost immediately. Here are the results: K. erythrocyte 5.50 K Hgb 165 MCV 91 MCH 30.1 MCHC 330 K. platelets 205 K. leukocyte 10.1 3.4-9.7 they seem a little high for me non-segmented granulocytes 0 segmented granulocytes 64 lymphocyte 12.3 monocyte 3 basophil 0
TSH Thyroid stimulating hormone 1.467 iron 17.6 UIBC 32.6 TIBC 50.2 urea 4.7 creatinine 83 bilirubin total 14 AST 18 ALT 21 GGT 23 cholesterol 4.5 HDL cholesterol 1.12 LDL cholesterol 2.99 triglycerides 0.85 S-glucose 8.1 and it's running a bit high U specific gravity 1.024 U pH 6.0 U protein 0 U ketones 0 U bilirubin 0 U urobilinogen normal U nitrites negative U erythrocyte/hemoglobin 0 U leukocyte esterase 0 Microscopic examination of urine sediment U leukocytes 0-2 U mucus a little
Just a side note, I'm no expert, so I don't know if there's a connection between this high glucose reading and the standard finger-prick test the doctor does. When I was at the clinic the day before, my fasting sugar was 5.2. I'm assuming the difference might be because I had literally two or three bites of some plain bread about two hours before the blood draw.
Wouldn't you just see it pop up in My Computer once you plug it in, just like any other USB drive? I'm going to need a few more details here—was the drive actually malfunctioning, which is why you decided to hook it up in the first place? It’s possible the issue lies with the external enclosure itself. If the drive is actually functional, maybe try giving the PC a quick restart while it's still connected to see if that clears anything up.
Just a heads-up for anyone looking to roll back to Windows 7 after an upgrade: you can navigate to Start > Settings > Update & Security > Recovery, and the system will walk you through the rest. Generally speaking, you have a 30-day window following the upgrade to revert everything back to how it was. Also, for those of you who find it absolutely infuriating that Windows 10 insists on downloading itself even when you've specifically disabled updates—yes, I know the feeling—there is actually a rather handy little tool that works on both Windows 7 and 8.1 to stop that madness in its tracks. https://www.grc.com/never10.htm
Thanks so much for that handy little tool; looks like it finally wiped out that Chinese malware issue I was dealing with. Everything boots up perfectly now, and I don't see any of those weird Chinese characters cluttering my screen anymore after a restart. 😁