So, the P56 setup uses two identical LPDA antennas to crank up those speeds. They’re meant to be installed at a 45° and 135° polarization so they can run in MIMO Diversity mode. That one in the plastic housing from the link here is also an LPDA, just a single one. Just so you know, all LPDA types usually top out at a max gain of about 8 dBi. With the P56, you get 10 meters of coax for both antennas, whereas that one wrapped in unnecessary plastic only comes with a measly 55cm.
That antenna won't work because it’s tuned for 5GHz WiFi, not the 3G/4G frequencies we need. Check if you can find two Iskra P56 units at a decent price—they cover all the mobile bands.
... ever since Windows 10 dropped, you can basically grab it for free and it runs totally fine (even if there are some minor hiccups), but you’re still gonna need to hunt down an activation "key," like something you'd pick up on eBay.
Just one more thing I wanted to mention—it looks like Windows is acting up because of the drivers. Try reporting it as just headphones (no mic attached) instead of a headset combo. That should clear up those interference issues.
Maybe try plugging in via an Ethernet cable? Your Wi-Fi isn't treating the connection as secure, even though it really should be asking you for permission before deciding that for you.
To snag those specific options, you just gotta head over to AT&T, sign a contract, and they'll hook you up with their router and a Comcast Xfinity Box.
Maybe some random process or background software is just eating up your CPU or hard drive... spiking everything to 100%. You should probably pull up Asana and keep an eye on what's running.
Look, if you're running Windows 7 x64, you aren't going to be able to run a repair using an install disc from Windows 8, Windows 10, or even Windows 7 x86. It just won't work like that. First thing's first: double-check your hard drive cables (just make sure you don't swap the SATA ports around). If that isn't the issue, you’ve probably got bad sectors on the drive. But before you start running any deep scans, try plugging that drive into another PC and grab all your important stuff—photos, docs, whatever—while you still have access to them.
...man, you really found something to recommend there 😁 ...that guy just peddles cheap knockoffs with these absolutely ridiculous descriptions LOL. I wouldn't suggest any of them to anyone, even if they claim those Alpha, Kase, Netgear, Verizon, Beats, or Linksys gear is "original." And don't get me started when they write "1W" or "6W" on the box—in reality, 99% of that junk doesn't even hit 100mW. It’s physically impossible to pull 2W or 6W because USB 2.0 caps out at about 2.5W, and an adapter can only convert maybe 40% of that into actual output power. They lie about the modes and speeds too, selling "b/g" tech while labeling it "b/g/n." The antennas are even worse. A standard dipole antenna isn't going to push more than 9 dBi, and there's no way a Yagi labeled 16dBi actually hits that, let alone some fake 25dBi or 36dBi claims LOL. Using RG174 or RG58 coaxial cables for microwave frequencies is a joke because the signal loss is insane. For example, if you try running 1W at 2.4GHz through 3 meters of RG174, you're lucky if 0.25W even reaches the antenna.
Between how far away the neighbor's house is, where the router sits, and whether there's a clear line of sight, I don't know. I'm sticking to the suggestion I made earlier.
Grab something like this https://www.tp-link.com/us/products/...37_CPE210.html and have your neighbor hook it up (set it to AP mode) to his router. He just mounts it on an outside wall facing your place. It’s way easier that way because his router is probably stuck in one spot inside the house, while you can just hang out by the window with your laptop to get closer to him. If the distance is huge and the signal is acting up, you could always mount a second unit on your side (in client mode). When you're setting things up, it's a good idea to have his router locked onto a specific channel, like channel 4, and set this AP to channel 9 so they aren't fighting over the same airwaves.
It’s honestly just standard practice now to ditch the CD/DVD drive. My son won't even let me install a burner on his desktop, even though there are three empty slots left—he just says it's useless junk these days. People are literally ripping out disc drives from their laptops just to make room for an SSD upgrade.
Most of these new motherboards don't even bother with Windows 7 drivers anymore... which honestly doesn't matter much since Microsoft is pulling the plug on Win7 support pretty soon anyway.
Back when I was running Win7 Pro x64 over two years ago, I jumped up to Win10 Pro. It felt way snappier and more stable, but man, that was nothing compared to when I finally did a totally clean install...
Look, if you don't have a power supply handy, you're basically gonna have to hunt down a schematic and build your own. From what I recall, there are two different voltages involved—one AC and one rectified. I actually have an Apple II with its original power brick somewhere, but it’s not right in front of me. I'll have to dig through the garage and tear things apart to find it once I actually get some free time. I was just scrolling through some sites online... like this: https://www.commodoreserver.com/Blog...CCB41450EB6E12
If you've got integrated graphics on your motherboard, try plugging into that instead. Just head into your BIOS settings and toggle it on (you'll probably want to disable the GeForce card since it looks like it's finally kicked the bucket).