It’s pretty straightforward—you just pop the disc into the drive on your PC and attach the files to an email, just like you would if you were moving stuff over from a thumb drive or an external hard drive.
Maybe you could list out some specifics so we don't have to go asking an oracle like AC Milan for info? Like, what motherboard are we talking about, which CPU, what was the old GPU, what did you try swapping in, and which version of macOS are you running? Also, is that 12V rail connected properly? We aren't even sure if everything's actually working once you plug the old card back in—like, are you even getting a picture on the screen? And just a heads-up, there isn't really an "HDMI" setting in the BIOS. Unless your motherboard has integrated graphics, the only thing you'll see is an option to toggle that onboard chip on, off, or set it to auto, along with how much RAM to carve out for it.
So you're saying it shows up? I mean, I just can't tell what the status is right now—whether there’s actually a partition there, or if it's formatted as NTFS, Microsoft, RAW, or something else entirely. If it's showing up as NTFS or Microsoft, then we can definitely get to those files. Even if they're hidden, there have been a few threads on this forum already that walk you through exactly how to dig them out.
If it’s not working in any of the ports—A, B, or C—you should at least drop a screenshot of your Disk Management screen, kind of like the one I posted here... https://ibb.co/HBmYpyB
..if it’s totally invisible.. where even are you getting that "not accessible" error message from?
I've run into a few spots where a partition had been wiped or the format was just sitting there as RAW instead of being FAT32 or NTFS, but they still showed up in "Disk Management" so I could just rebuild the partition or reformat it.
First thing you should do is hop into File Explorer > View and make sure you've got Hidden Items checked. See if that makes it pop up for you.. It really ought to show up in Disk Management too.
We don't actually know what kind of Mbps speeds you've signed up for with your ISP, so there’s no way to tell if it can even handle a crowd. The only real way to blanket the whole area without running a massive mess of cables and gear through the building is to set up an AP (or maybe a couple on different channels) about 60 feet away from the site—somewhere where you have a clear line of sight to all the balconies. You'd need an outdoor AP with a beefy enough processor to juggle multiple users, plus some built-in directional antennas around 9dBi, then just run a UTP cable back to your home router. I'd let the contractor pick out the specific hardware.
ps: Honestly, skip those cheap range extenders. They act like repeaters that basically cut your speed in half, and since everyone ends up fighting for space on the same channel as the router and the users, the interference makes the whole thing pretty much useless.😢 It would be a smart move to make sure those WiFi APs are dual-band, supporting both 2.4 and 5GHz, since pretty much every smartphone and laptop out there uses both.
I honestly thought we had this figured out already... if your PC isn't picking up that drive, you really need to try plugging it into another machine. If it doesn't even show up in the BIOS there, then it's officially a paperweight. Just toss it. Since you grabbed that 1TB drive specifically to boost your storage—especially since your old one is basically a fraction of the size—it makes total sense why I suggested just buying a fresh HDD in the first place.
ps: I’ve always got three drives running constantly (one older IDE and two SATA), but I keep a fourth one strictly for storage and only fire it up when I need to run a backup.
?? What kind of DVD drive are we talking about when there's an SSD sitting in its spot instead? ?? Which OS are you planning to install? ?? What specific model of HP is this? ?? Are you trying to run the installation via a USB boot?
OK 👍 ..honestly, when Windows 10 first dropped, I just jumped straight from Windows 7 to the upgrade. My PC actually felt faster and smoother than before, and I didn't run into a single headache with drivers or anything else, even after all the big updates, including that 1809 version.
First thing I’d do when installing Windows 10 is just pull that old HDD out entirely. Swap it for an SSD right from the jump, get the OS installed, and then once you're up and running, stick the old hard drive back into the laptop using a USB enclosure or where the CD/DVD drive used to be. ps: The SSD should pop right up in "Disk Management" via the control panel. Just gotta initialize it, set up your partitions, and format everything to NTFS...
Maybe try swapping the cables from that old rig over to the new one? If it still doesn't show up in the BIOS, hop back in there and check again to see if it’s visible now. If it’s still MIA, it basically means the drive is toast and you’ll need to grab a new one. 😢
If you can, just plug directly into the router with an Ethernet cable. Once you're in there, right-click that adapter in the Maid Manager and hit "update driver." If you can't get online at all, find the Hardware ID under the properties of that adapter in the Maid Manager. Grab another PC that actually has internet, Google that specific ID to hunt down the drivers you need, save them to a thumb drive, and then move them over to your machine to install.
ps: The ID should look something like this: \VEN_1969&DEV_10A1&SUBSYS_10A11849&REV_10\4&15c7d9 d3&0&0060 Honestly, if you can see the manufacturer's name or the model type on the adapter itself, you could probably just search for those to find the right drivers too.
..could you let me know what kind of WiFi adapter you're using and what OS is running on your PC? Are you connecting to your own home router, and if so, what model is it?
Usually, the system should just pick up the device and handle the driver installation automatically if your PC is hooked up to the internet via Ethernet. If there was a disc in the box with the adapter, you might need to run those drivers manually if you don't have a web connection. You can check the status in the Maid Manager; if the device shows up on the list, you're golden, but if you see a little yellow warning icon next to it, that means a driver is missing.
That motherboard features five SATA ports plus an IDE connector that can handle two IDE drives (or one hard drive and a CD/DVD drive). No need to mess around with adapters either; you just jump into the BIOS and set your boot order if you've got operating systems on both.
I don't have the exact specs for that IDE/SATA adapter handy, but with those old PATA drives, you usually set the MA, CS, and SL settings using physical jumpers rather than messing with the BIOS. So, which motherboard are we actually working with here? And how many total drives are you trying to run?
What kind of laptop are we talking about—what's the model and the OS? And for the display, are you hooking up to a monitor or a TV? Also, what cable are you using—VGA, HDMI, LAN... or just relying on Wi-Fi? Most importantly, what exactly is cutting out?
...that's probably why nobody's chiming in on this thread yet.
Look, having more than 4GB of RAM is a massive step up from just 2GB, and honestly, you want that frequency to be as high as you can get it. When it comes to the CPU, yeah, more cores mean faster processing, but don't sleep on clock speeds and memory access times—those matter just as much. A 64-bit system is definitely the way to go since it can actually handle more RAM; a 32-bit setup hits a wall at 4GB, which is pretty limiting. And seriously, Windows 10 is a much better bet than 7 or 8.
There are tons of different programs out there to choose from, so just grab something like CrystalDiskInfo. Check out CrystalDiskInfo here: https://www.hdtune.com/download.html And go ahead and run an "Error scan"—don't just settle for the Fast one.