Posts by mellowtiger83

Timothy Kim60 said:31.5" AOC Q3279VWF - $220

Dammit, it's already out of stock.🙂

Timothy Kim60 said:And look at this click

Believe me, there is plenty more where that came from. It’s all quite simple if one actually bothers to understand how things work. Then again, you always have those groups out there trying to offload significantly inferior rigs for absolutely ridiculous prices.

You’ve got a solid foundation here. Honestly, the core setup is strong enough that your only real moves should be grabbing a more powerful graphics card and a better CPU cooler to handle a decent overclock. Just don't push it too hard; that motherboard isn't exactly a high-end piece of kit.
Also, that LC Power 95 cooler you're running should be perfectly fine for a reasonable overclock.

Picked this up for the kids today🙂. Honestly, it’s almost ridiculous how cheap I got a brand-new PC with a full 3-year warranty—plus, it's a major brand name. I think I'll grab a GT 1030 to toss in there too, just so they have something to play and finally leave my rig alone.

https://www.craigslist.org/re/pc-computers/...listing-23894154

Michael Adams said:What would the market value be for this?
Case: Fractal Design Core 1000
The optical drive: LG GH22NS.
Power supply: Zalman 450-GS PSU
Hard drive specs: Western Digital 500GB, model 5000AAKX, running on SATA 3.
Graphics Card: MSI R7750 OC Dual Fan, 1GB GDDR5
Memory: Dual Channel DDR3, 8GB total (2x4GB Kingmax), clocked at 1333MHz.
Motherboard: Asrock B75M - Intel B75, M-ATX, Dual Channel DDR3 - 1600
Processor: Intel Core i3-2120 3.3
SSD: Corsair 60GB Force 3, 2.5", SATA 3
Displaying on an LG Flatron W1943SS 19''.
Logitech peripherals. Wired mouse and keyboard.
Upgrading from the original Windows 7 to Windows 10.

Roughly 1500—$667 It ought to be extracted.🙂It is quite an ingrate’s task to try and pin down an accurate valuation. Prices on Craigslist fluctuate wildly from one day to the next. Furthermore, you have people setting their own prices only to undercut themselves or devalue their own gear constantly. Best of luck dealing with the idiots who will inevitably harass you over it.

Joseph Allen71 said:No, though since I happen to prefer pleasant surprises, I have learned to lower my expectations to an absolute minimum. 😳

It is quite simple enough to just dampen your fingers while scrolling through the catalogs. 🕺
From what I can tell, you’re busy working all afternoon, so maybe some junior guy and I could catch a train whenever it suits us and settle in once we reach Los Angeles. It is far too cold right now for me to bike out to your place, and taking the train from my area to Los Angeles is simply the fastest way to travel.
I assume you've heard of that old western movie with the girl and the horse in the Mini Cooper. 😉
By the way, are BenQ monitors actually any good?
My old LG has become temperamental, and I found this one for about $20.

BenQ is decent; you won't make a mistake there, though there are certain people here who obsess over monitors, so perhaps you could find something even better for that price.

Those are the types who get worked up over useless nonsense like FreeSync, QHD, or 4K—just silly things they need at "ultra" settings because otherwise their ego feels a bit bruised,🙂 if you catch my drift.😁
In other words, geeks.😵
Personally, I think any Full HD monitor is top-tier. Full HD provides more than enough pixels for the human eye, let alone those pseudo-products marketed as 4K just to move graphics cards with prices too obscene to even mention.

Even though we haven't met in person, technically you still owe me a coffee at the Starbucks in downtown Chicago!

I have a soft spot for statistics because they reveal so much while keeping the most vital details hidden.🙂

Timothy Kim60 said:Links doesn't offer the Denny's 24-month interest-free option like future IT 1 x does (12 months), nor does Chase (Links offers 9 installments interest-free, while future IT 1 x offers 12)

The case and power supply are higher quality (the PSU has a 5-year warranty, and the case comes with 3 x 12cm fans).

BTW, I can't exactly go snooping through the contents of your receipt

My mistake, I just realized that future IT 1 x has the 24-month interest-free plan at Denny's, whereas Links only offers 12🙂, what even is 24 months interest-free🤔, it's a shame he's going with 24 installments because if he used Links for 12, it would be cheaper; taking out a consumer loan makes zero sense since the interest will eat up any potential savings twice over.

I am aware that your case is slightly better and more robust; one could easily upgrade to something better at Links for that $167 difference, but alas, they don't have the 24-month option.

In short, my point was simply that if he intends to pay over 12 installments, Links is considerably cheaper!

https://www.amazon.com/cart, I put together a build at Amazon similar to the one above for all payment methods $1337. The case and power supply differ slightly, though the quality remains comparable; it uses an MS Rider paired with an MS Platinum 400 w 80
. The rest consists of an Intel Pentium G4560
an Asrock H110M-DGS
1x 8gb ddr 4 2166
and a 1tb hdd from Seagate, specifically the Guardian model.
Plus a Gigabyte 1050ti with 4gb
.
Buying through Future IT on a payment plan simply isn't worth it; you'll end up with $167 extra breathing room at Amazon! An SSD? A better motherboard? Honestly, I think for $450, you could probably squeeze in a Ryzen 1200 with an A320 board and 8gb.

Gladly, my friend. Enjoy it—I am pleased I could be of assistance!

Joseph Allen71 said:'So, I ended up grabbing both the power supply and the hard drive, and NetJak is coming over to handle the whole setup.
I didn't realize there was actually someone with half a brain in this family. 😁>

This is the PSU, and this is the drive.
With the cash discount, the total came out to about $580.
I'll let you know how it goes. 👍>

That power supply is just some budget brand, but don't sweat it; it'll keep your rig running without any drama. I get it, money's tight and finding a high-end unit is a hassle, though honestly, you shouldn't have even bothered buying a new PSU—it's not like that's the main bottleneck here.

Unfortunately, neither of those hard drives is any good. The larger one is just obnoxious—it has decent speeds, sure, but the smaller one is inexplicably sluggish for some reason.

So, you're looking at buying a new hard drive or an SSD. If you decide to go the SSD route, I’d suggest keeping that 320GB drive strictly for backups or miscellaneous data storage.

A better first move would be to ditch that 500GB drive entirely and install the OS onto a smaller, faster drive instead.

Once you launch the application, you'll see a benchmark button located in the upper left corner. Click that, hit start, and once the process concludes, just post your results here.

The hardware shouldn't show much oscillation during the test; ideally, the speed curve should remain fairly steady.

It appears my initial assessment was correct. By the way, you should run a speed test on both drives using the same software to get an accurate comparison.

Enough with the jokes. I just picked up a machine that’s showing the exact same symptoms you described. It takes an eternity to boot up, and even after the OS finally loads, it takes another five minutes before Windows actually becomes functional. I ran HD Tune on it; the software isn't flagging any bad sectors or corruption, but the speed test is a disaster. It starts at a pathetic 2MB per second, peaks at around 70MB, and averages out to maybe 20 or 30MB per second. The drive is clearly dying—you can actually hear the physical grinding coming from inside the case.

Ninety percent of the time, your diagnosis is just as flawed as anyone else's. Besides, have you even considered trying to boot the system from a different hard drive? I recall someone mentioning you had two available.

crimsonstag84, you can get the same deal at Links on the 24-month plan! It’s essentially just consumer credit through your card, so they tack on interest and some minor transaction fee.
Though, there are certain big-box retailers out there that offer the Amex 24-month option interest-free.

By the way, that build in your signature looks sharp. If I recall correctly, your old setup was rocking a $2,500 rig with a GTX 660—you’ve certainly upgraded since then.🙂

Hold on, are you and the Apple Trinitron actually on speaking terms? Because if you don't start paying attention to what's happening with the edge, you're going to miss out.

Make sure you've got that Ryzen installed first, but before you even think about it, take a look at this link featuring a guy wearing a sock on his head.🙂

Joseph Allen71 said:🤣 Coffee with milk has always been superior to that egg-based concoction. Regarding my availability, how does your schedule look from Tuesday onwards? 🙂

I am free until 3:00 PM every day, and on Sundays, I have the entire day wide open.

Joseph Allen71 said:I appreciate the effort, man, but I’ll pass.
Everything you just listed is stuff I’d have to pay a pro to handle, because let’s face it—I’m about as useful as a broken Mary when it comes to this kind of thing...
Besides, I’m just too lazy and too unmotivated to start learning something I never had any interest in to begin with. If you need me, I can wire up the electricity for the whole house, but anything involving less than 220V is simply out of my league.
What can I say? You mention resetting the BIOS, and all I hear is incoherent mumbling, much like how kids at Peanuts perceive adult conversation. 😉

Look, buddy, bring it over to my place in Philadelphia and I'll fix it for free if you just buy a coffee for the girl working the counter at the local deli🙂.

That's the only catch! Honestly, I don't drink that egg coffee crap—only dreamers believe in that!

@Joseph Allen71/">@@Joseph Allen71, you should probably reset the BIOS to factory defaults, try plugging the hard drive into a different SATA connector, or even just disconnect the drive that doesn't have Windows on it.

Perform a fresh installation of Windows by completely formatting the drive and recreating the partition—actually, go ahead and create two partitions this time.

One of those steps might do the trick.

Don't mention it.