Posts by analogtiger19

They are. Check out the authorized Dell importers and service centers here in the States... maybe try reaching out to them.

You didn't say what you're actually using this rig for...

Charles Fox10 said:Quick question for you: are you in favor of getting rid of Daylight Saving Time?

Which one do you prefer? Personally, I’m leaning toward Standard Time. It just feels right.

Anyway, we'll set up a new poll shortly. We've decided it's better to keep these surveys public.

The EU wasn't even debating whether to abolish Daylight Saving Time specifically, but rather if they should just stop switching the clocks entirely. Once they decided to end the seasonal shifts, they basically left it up to individual member states to pick their permanent setting—either Standard Time or Daylight Saving Time. (Which seems pretty idiotic to me because, theoretically, we could end up an hour apart from our neighbors just because everyone picks something different)

The poll on that thread is asking yes or no about getting rid of Daylight Saving Time altogether, not picking between winter or summer time... ☕

wiredotter14 said:Let's be clear here—you checked the Google Drive Recycle Bin and there's nothing there??

If it's not there, try running some kind of data recovery on the PC where those files were stored offline.

Yeah, the Recycle Bin just had old files from ages ago that were actually deleted...

I'll give it a shot, thanks.

I'm not claiming credit, I'm just trying to help out the person who actually built this thing.

Anyway, thanks for your input...

So, everything I uploaded to Google Drive over the last week or so just vanished into thin air, and there’s nothing in the Recycle Bin... anyone have any clue what to do?
Basically, all I see in the Recycle Bin are old files that were manually deleted by the user...

Has anyone dealt with this before? A massive pile of business documents just blew away in the wind, and I absolutely need them back. This is a nightmare. 🤦

The Noctua NH-D15 offers killer value compared to liquid cooling setups.

Here’s an older article from a few years back, but it still holds up. Check it out for yourself. 😉

Adam Moore3, you've got a point there.

I was just trying to point out how unbalanced this build feels...

Basically, the pricier one has a higher refresh rate, 165Hz vs 144Hz. There's also the tech gap: the cheaper model supports FreeSync—which is free for AMD cards—while the expensive one handles G-Sync, which usually comes with a premium for NVIDIA users. It’s all about that adaptive sync tech to kill screen tearing. I'm running around right now, so someone else will probably give you a deeper dive. Sorry.

Adam Moore3 said:If he isn't planning on overclocking, there’s honestly zero point in getting a Noctua lol. I already mentioned that if he actually wants to OC, he should just go with something beefier or switch to liquid cooling. I get the feeling you didn't even read my post... 😵

A 500W power supply will get the job done, sure. But when you're dropping $20,000 on a build, you don't pinch pennies just to save thirty bucks on the wattage.

Nonsense. 😉

The same logic applies to the cooler 😉 ...except they don't actually need water cooling if they have a top-tier air cooler instead.

EDIT: just to be clear, I wasn't saying to skimp on the PSU, I was saying don't skimp on the cooler.

You could grab an NVIDIA GTX 1050 Ti 4GB or a GTX 1060 3GB for around $1,800$0.63, or if you're short on cash, a GTX 1050 Ti 4GB runs about $1,350-$1,600. Just keep in mind that last one is actually weaker than the card you just fried...

The 1060 wins in some titles, while the 570 takes the lead in others...Check out this breakdown of 29 different games tested on both cards so you can see which one fits your library better.

Is the warranty on your old one already up?

@Adam Moore3

You build someone a rig worth nearly $3,000 and then slap a CM 212X on it instead of a Noctua? It’d be more useful to give them an NH-D15 than that 750W power supply you suggested, especially considering how much juice this whole setup is actually going to pull.😉

@Drew Roberts3/">@@Drew Roberts3

Since you're already grabbing that GPU, it’d be a total waste not to pick up a 27" 1440p monitor too...

Pull one stick out and run memtest again until you pin down which specific module is acting up. Once you find the culprit, take it back for a warranty claim... though honestly, you might have to return both sticks (just give them a call first to check)

wearyraven41 said:I cleaned out the heatsink, swapped the thermal paste... then when I went to check the temps in the BIOS, it jumped straight to 100°C. I managed to boot into Windows just long enough to grab a monitoring tool, and yeah, it was sitting at 100 degrees. It only lasted a few minutes before...

Now it’s even worse. I can't even get into the BIOS anymore. The monitor won't even turn on, and the PC just keeps rebooting itself...

Huh?

Check if you actually seated the heatsink correctly and made sure the fan is plugged into the motherboard. Something definitely went sideways when you were putting the cooler back on...

This might be unrelated to the actual issue, but seeing 60C in the BIOS is pushing it... even if it's 90 degrees outside and you aren't running the AC in your office.

Joystick or a controller? Personally, I haven't touched a joystick in twenty years—not since I stopped playing flight sims. I just use my Microsoft Xbox 360 controller and honestly, it's great. If you're looking for a controller, check if the Microsoft Xbox One version works for you (since they don't sell the 360 model anymore); it should be under $167
.
EDIT: Wait, I see they have a wireless 360 model right here. You'd just need to make sure it's the PC-compatible version
.

Andrew Hill18 said:I've been scrolling through this thread and noticed everyone keeps bringing up how much power a GPU pulls. Can someone explain why that actually matters? Thanks!

It matters because when you're upgrading an old PC, you have to account for the power supply capacity—and whether that PSU is even old enough to handle the load.

What do you mean it isn't detecting any available networks? Are you talking about trying to connect via Wi-Fi? If so, yeah, obviously it won't work without the right setup. But if you're plugging in an Ethernet cable, then it shouldn't be a hardware issue...
To get on Wi-Fi, you actually need a Wi-Fi network adapter...