Dual channel only works with 2+2, 4+4, or 8+8 configurations... and you need the exact same memory sticks, or at least ones that are incredibly close matches
Plug it into your PC and see exactly how much power you're pulling while a game is actually running... if you're sitting around 90W, you could probably swing a beefier card that pulls about 75W, like a GTX 1050 or a GTX 1050 Ti, or maybe an RX 560...$100 which is way more powerful than a GT 1030
The GT 710 at 720p and the GT 1030 have basically the same power draw—around 30W. It should work without any issues... maybe look into a GT 1030 OC version if you can
The G4400 pulls a maximum of 60W, and even if the motherboard and everything else soak up another 50W, you’ve still got plenty of headroom before hitting 180W
BenQ is fine, but honestly, for that kind of money—or maybe just a little more—you can definitely find something better. You should really look for something with an IPS panel. Philips or Dell would be solid choices.
If it’s taking 40 minutes to boot, something is definitely wrong... You need to check your BIOS settings, monitor your temperatures, and look at your CPU clock speeds. Run some diagnostic tools to see what's actually happening. It could be a memory issue, a motherboard problem, or maybe your hard drive is just dying and struggling to keep up...
Reinstalling the OS would make a huge difference. Grab Norton and run a scan—it has options to speed things up by cleaning out junk you don't need... Actually, that might be the best first step. Just scan the whole thing and download some free antivirus software like Norton...
If you decide to buy new parts, grab a 400W power supply from something like Corsair $107 and an SSD... Try that first to see if performance improves. If not, then you're looking at a full rebuild. For a setup with an Intel Core i3, a Gigabyte motherboard with a 320 chipset, and 8GB of DDR4 RAM—though 4GB might suffice if you aren't doing heavy work—you could probably get away with $733 ... Roughly speaking, the CPU is $500, the motherboard is under $500, the power supply is $300, and you can find an SSD for about $450. Add in 4GB of RAM for $133, use your old case, and keep the old hard drive for storage if it's still healthy... Total should be around $717 ... Sell off your old CPU, motherboard, RAM, and graphics card to offset the cost
Your PSU is rated for 44A on the 12V rail if I remember correctly, so you should be totally fine... there's no need to swap anything out. It’s plenty strong enough. If you aren't sure, just Google the specs
Having two fans helps with cooling and keeps things quieter. That’s pretty important for a card pulling 200W... maybe less so for a card that only pulls 100W.
Grab an extra 4GB stick of RAM if you only have one right now (used is fine since it'll save you some cash)
Also, check out PCPartPicker to see what kind of GPU you can snag with whatever money you have left over
That Sapphire RX 580 Nitro 4GB GDDR5 SAPPHIRE RADEON $728....that specific card pulls about 200W, so double-check if your power supply can actually handle it (I'm thinking it probably can)
Your CPU is actually still solid; it can handle the latest games at high settings and HD resolution... You just have to keep in mind you're stuck on DDR3 RAM, whereas Intel uses much faster, newer DDR4... Like others mentioned above, you could grab a better CPU cooler to try overclocking, but you’ll definitely need a new power supply—maybe even just a basic 400W unit from EVGA or $100
If you're on a tight budget, you could put together a build using an AMD A8-9600 which goes for about $167. Pair that with 2x4GB of DDR4 RAM for just over $167 and a motherboard around $133.... even a cheap 400W power supply will work since the actual draw won't top 100W. Toss in a $100 hard drive and any basic case, old or new, for a few bucks . The integrated graphics on this chip are comparable to an HD 7750, so the CPU and GPU combined only pull 65W, which is great...
You’d be looking at a total cost of roughly $667 or maybe a little more . It'll handle gaming just fine—you can see clearly from .
It runs newer titles, and older games will fly on this thing... classic Call of Duty 2 would absolutely soar . Check Best Buy for pricing
You’re probably going to laugh at me, but I was watching these crazy tests using random stuff as CPU thermal paste—things like toothpaste, Nivea, even mayo... 🙂 ....it actually won, you guys will never guess which one....
Ketchup. Seriously. It was only a 1 degree difference compared to some high-end, professional silver-based thermal paste 🤣
Updating your whole rig with the latest drivers isn't always the move. You end up grabbing a bunch of beta versions that just cause headaches... I always stick to the last stable release—the one before the current one—especially if everything is running smooth in my games.
Why did you have to swap out three different GPU drivers?
Maybe try installing Windows 7 and seeing how it goes... something about Windows 10 might be tripping it up.
I agree, this setup isn't balanced at all... especially if the motherboard can't handle a 125W draw from the CPU. It’s definitely not built for gaming. Besides, I'm curious how you managed to keep it at 70 degrees while running at just 1.4GHz...
I actually have an identical processor. When I tested out the energy saver mode, it throttled the clock speed down to 800MHz. Honestly, when you're just browsing the web or watching movies, you don't even notice the difference between full speed and 800MHz... I bet it would feel the same for basic office work too...
According to the support list, that board doesn't even support the Intel Core i7 with NVIDIA GeForce GTX equivalent... the 955 is the max they allow, and even then, it's limited to 95W.
Your CPU's max temp should be sitting around 55-62 degrees... if you were hitting 69, your motherboard was probably fighting tooth and nail to stop that processor from frying by throttling the multiplier as much as possible...
Bottom line: poor cooling, a subpar CPU cooler, or bad airflow in the case.... under load, that CPU should top out at 60 degrees... you need to check those CPU voltages.
With a processor like that running at 3.4 GHz, using an LC95 cooler and keeping the case open, my temps never climb above 55-57 degrees... what exactly were you doing with that chip?... how on earth did you manage to hit 70?
Once you sort out those issues, you can set the multiplier manually. Bump it up by one, run a heavy load for half an hour, and just keep a close eye on the temperatures...
Here are my current temps while browsing the web—just Chrome with a few tabs open. The CPU is at 35 and the motherboard is at 26.