I'm trying to get into ChatGPT, but I'm hitting a wall... https://bard.google.com/?hl=en It keeps saying it isn't supported here in the States yet. Is there any way to bypass this—without having to shell out for a VPN subscription right now? Any simple, free workarounds available for someone in the US?
My budget is around $650-$700 I'll be printing all sorts of things—flyers, brochures, you name it. Standard letter size—and I might need some color occasionally. It would be great if it supports Wi-Fi—plus, I want something efficient regarding ink costs once I actually start using it.
I'm honestly not sure what else fits in this price range—any suggestions? A friend sent me this link, but now I'm just lost in all the options...
I got it working using Android and Files by Google—pretty seamless. Just dropping this here in case anyone else runs into the same issue. https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/a...2-1-0.1967690/
I've got an "old school" TV hooked up to a Roku Streaming Stick 4K—plus there's an external hard drive attached filled with movies, shows, and cartoons for the kids. How can I access the iOS device via my phone, tablet, or PC—so I don't get in the way while the kids are watching their cartoons on the TV—allowing me to get to that hard drive and pick out a series or whatever to watch in peace?
My Western Digital My Cloud is finally on its last legs—it’s been a constant headache with Windows 10 lately, and honestly, I’m just done dealing with the hassle. What would you guys suggest picking up from Walmart for some basic home use and a small network setup? I did take a look at the QNAP TS-231P, but it's a bit pricey—though if I pull the trigger, it could work. Does anyone have any firsthand experience or solid suggestions for something reliable for everyday use?
ironcyclist58 said:It looks like Adobe started planting a little "time bomb" in Flash back in some older version, which finally triggered on January 12th. I guess you could try hunting down an ancient build from before they baked that in... but honestly, I'm not sure how much of a difference it'll actually make. Most browsers have already pulled the plug on Flash anyway.
I'll try to hunt down which specific version that was—since we're dealing with internal program files and everything displays right within the software interface rather than through a browser or webpage, I'm hopeful this might actually work.
I’m grabbing this from another thread because I wanted to get some expert opinions—we were discussing upgrades over there, but now I’m honestly leaning towards just selling everything as a complete bundle... any idea what this is worth?
CPU Intel Core i5 4460 @ 3.20GHz 77 °C Haswell 22nm Technology RAM 16,0GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 799MHz (11-11-11-30) Motherboard ASRock B85M Pro3 (CPUSocket) 34 °C Graphics BenQ GW2765 (1920x1080@59Hz) 4095MB Nvidia GeForce GTX 970 (CardExpert Technology) 37 °C Storage 298GB Seagate ST9320310AS (SATA) 32 °C 223GB KINGSTON SHFS37A240G SCSI Disk Device (SSD) 30 °C 1863GB Western Digital WD My Book 25DA USB Device (USB (SATA)) 41 °C 931GB Toshiba External USB 3.0 USB Device (USB (SATA)) 29 °C Optical Drives HL-DT-ST DVDRAM GH24NSD1 SCSI CdRom Device ELBY CLONEDRIVE SCSI CdRom Device Audio Nvidia high Definition audio
I’m not quite sure how else to put this—but lately, I’ve noticed this weird thing happening when I’m typing up something. If I have more than one window open (though it’s happened with just one, too), my active window suddenly slips into the background—it’s like it loses focus out of nowhere. Then I have to manually click back into the window just to get back to work.
It’s getting a little frustrating, honestly—and I’m stumped on a fix. My drivers are all up to date, and my keyboard and mouse are working fine... I even tried swapping out the mouse—same result. I'll be mid-sentence and then realize I'm basically typing into a void—so I have to click back into the window to resume.
Does anyone have a recommendation for an inkjet that features automatic duplexing? I don't really care about extra bells and whistles—like scanning or Wi-Fi and all that—I just want to be able to print on both sides without having to manually flip the pages myself—plus, I'd love something that won't absolutely wreck my budget with ink costs.
I've got a broken Acer laptop sitting around—thinking about pulling the HDD out to use as extra storage alongside the SSD in my desktop.
What kind of gear should I look for on Amazon or Best Buy to make this happen? Speccy shows my current setup as: ASRock B85M Pro3 motherboard and the memory is RAM Memory slots total Memory slots 4 used Memory slots 2 Free Memory slots 2 Memory Type DDR3 siz 8192 MBytes Channels Total memory slots 4 Used memory slots 2 Free memory slots 2 Memory Type DDR3 Size 8192 MBytes Channels # Dual DRAM Frequency 799.6 MHz
Is it possible to reuse the laptop RAM too—do I need specific adapters or anything like that? Any good guides out there that walk you through the whole process?
So, I'm looking to put together a home PC that can handle just about anything... My budget is around $5,500—not including the monitor, keyboard, or mouse—and I’ll be paying cash. I've been browsing Craigslist, but I figured it would be smarter to check in here before I pull the trigger.
I just got my hands on a Dell Inspiron 17—it arrived without an OS. I ended up installing Windows 7 32-bit—had to, since I'm stuck using a specific 32-bit program—and now I've run into a bit of a snag. The issue is that I can't find any drivers for Windows 7 32-bit anywhere—every single manufacturer site seems to only host drivers for Windows 10 these days. Has anyone else dealt with 32-bit installs lately—any advice on what to do? :-(
What should I throw on this—it’ll be used for installing some educational games, coloring apps, typing tutors, etc., for the kids (stuff I can find online)—should I go with Windows or stick with Linux?
I'm just scrolling through some price lists right now—not totally sure what would be a solid choice for around $2333 including a monitor. Most of my work will involve the Adobe suite—though I'll definitely have some downtime for FPS games or maybe some FIFA/PES... So, should I aim for at least a 24" or a 27" monitor? And am I overstepping if I ask for recommendations for a PC build around $1667 plus a monitor?
Ryan Hayes82 said:Samsung LS24E390HL 24'' LED Monitor, PLS AMD FX X8 8300 box Processor, AM3+ socket, 3.3GHz, 16MB cache, Eight Core ASUS M5A97 R2 motherboard XFX AMD RADEON R9 380 DD Graphics Card, 2GB DDR5 Seagate HDD desktop Barracuda 7200 ST1000DM003 1000.0 GB 560W Power Supply, LC POWER Silent Giant GREEN POWER LC6560GP3 V2.3, 8 GB Kingston PC-12800 RAM, KVR16N11/8, DDR3 1600MHz ANTEC GX300 Case, MIDI, black, no PSU LC POWER LC-CC-120 Cooler
$2195 Best Buy - online shopping
Is it worth checking out this one...
Intel Core I5 quad Core 3.2 GHz, Radeon R9 280 x 3GB DDR5 8GB DDR3 Thermaltake Modular 630W 1TB Western Digital LG led 24" It fits my $600 budget—just not sure if it's actually better?
This might sound a little silly—but here I am—whenever I try to run a calculation using certain conditions, Excel shows me a perfectly fine value in the preview, yet the second I hit enter, the cell just spits out a #VALUE! error. http://s1357.photobucket.com/albums/q757/Sam Martinez8—so I won't bore you with too much unnecessary detail— I'm also trying to get a rating in the next cell based on this formula: =IF(J14=1;1;INT(J14+0,5))—but nope, that’s giving me a #VALUE! error too. 🙂 Where am I going wrong?