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Full suspension with a welded frame

Started by Edward Long2 · · 👁 6 views · 69 replies

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Participants Edward Long2quietskipper17darkmakerAndrew Wells58Sarah Turner98James Davis11Charles Bailey45Morgan Moore37Ethan Chavez3
Edward Long2 Edward Long2 MemberOP
40 messages
joined Oct 2012
#21 ·
The mechanic is free, and my buddy is helping out too. Fingers crossed. 😁

Looking at the Specialized Rockhopper 5—since it's a 29er, I obviously can't swap the tires and wheels. But what about the fork, brakes, and drivetrain? Can everything from the Trek be moved over to it?

darkmaker—everything is fine, I'm in no rush. It won't happen until October, so I have plenty of time to weigh my options and see how things shake out. What you mentioned makes sense, but where would the fork and the rest of the parts go if I wanted to build a second bike for my brother?

That way, for $500, I’d end up upgrading both the Trek and the Specialized, plus have an extra bike ready to go (assuming I buy the frame). Since my buddy and my brother would split the cost, we could practically get away with just $167.
darkmaker darkmaker Active Member
73 messages
joined Apr 2008
#22 ·
Given that the frame has finally settled into its shape and you have no intention of ever selling it, I suspect your best move would be to simply invest in some new SLX components. If you pick up a fresh air fork next year—which I believe is still available for $500 new—you could bypass all this tedious tinkering altogether. You'd end up with a top-tier trail bike, while you could pass the fork and the old parts down to your brother. As for the rest, I'm sure you could find decent replacements on Craigslist quite affordably
quietskipper17 quietskipper17 Active Member
56 messages
joined Apr 2011
#23 ·
Honestly, just let it go.
$500There are way better ways to spend your money.

ps: That fork definitely isn't right for you.
Charles Bailey45 Charles Bailey45 Member
23 messages
joined Jan 2015
#24 ·
You're looking at a solid fork and wheels that should be worth about $500 if everything is as described (assuming the fork has been serviced and the wheels are true with healthy hubs).
The brakes are great, though since they're "older," that Magura setup might actually end up costing you more than just buying something brand new from the Shimano line.

The derailleurs and shifters shouldn't have any issues, so they're definitely worth roughly $167 as long as they haven't been physically trashed by some bad crashes.

As for the rest—the cassette, the drivetrain, and all that—you really need to see them in person to judge the condition.

All things considered, once you strip it down and toss the frame, it’s easily worth $2,100-$2,200. It really just comes down to how much that specific upgrade is worth to you.

The difference in the wheels and the fork compared to the Dart 2 will be massive, but the rest? Honestly, I'm not sure.

That's just my two cents!
quietskipper17 quietskipper17 Active Member
56 messages
joined Apr 2011
#25 ·
Sadly, you can't even use the wheels or the fork on that Trek... so the whole setup just doesn't seem worth the money at all.
Edward Long2 Edward Long2 MemberOP
40 messages
joined Oct 2012
#26 ·
quietskipper17 said:ps: obviously that fork isn't a good match.

You mean the Dart 2 doesn't quite fit the Trek. It’s fine, nothing major. I'll just put the Dart 2 on a completely new build we're putting together using a used frame. I'll probably move my Trek wheels over to that one too.

On the Trek, I'd probably swap in a new fork and most of the other parts if they're still in decent shape.

Then I'd take the drivetrain and brakes from the Trek and put them on the other bike, assuming everything fits.

EDIT: thanks Charles Bailey45, I don't think the brakes should be an issue since they're only two years old. Plus, the pads are brand new. I just need to check if the rotors are straight. If they are, I'll likely move those over to the Trek as well.

BTW: does anyone know what this rear suspension is worth? Thinking about selling it.
quietskipper17 quietskipper17 Active Member
56 messages
joined Apr 2011
#27 ·
So, if I've got this right:

1. You'd grab a used full suspension bike with a cracked frame but all the parts you listed
2. Move some of those parts over to your Trek 29
3. And then put the rest on some random used 26-inch frame you find later

If that's what you're thinking, honestly? Don't do it. My advice is much simpler: just buy a solid 26-inch frame and move EVERYTHING from the cracked bike onto that one. Then you either ride it or sell it. If you sell it, take that cash, add the $500 you were already planning to spend, and you'll have at least $500 or $600 to pull off a killer upgrade on your Trek. Leave the Trek alone for now—it's actually pretty good as it is.
darkmaker darkmaker Active Member
73 messages
joined Apr 2008
#28 ·
That Trek isn't actually his; he's just borrowing it from a buddy 😁
Charles Bailey45 Charles Bailey45 Member
23 messages
joined Jan 2015
#29 ·
Wait, aren't we talking about the Blast he already owns and wants to beef up (which he totally can do without any issues)? Isn't the Trek just his buddy's clunker that he's thinking about swapping those parts onto? 🤔

Yeah, basically everything except the fork and the wheels, though I'm pretty sure he already realized that.
quietskipper17 quietskipper17 Active Member
56 messages
joined Apr 2011
#30 ·
Good grief...
I honestly can't tell what belongs to him anymore—it's a messy mix of stuff from his friends, brother, mom, grandpa, neighbors, sister... you name it.

At the end of the day, this setup is exactly what I said: a total disaster.
So much work involved, the parts are sketchy at best, and those "upgrades" are just patchwork fixes that cost way too much.

I would personally never touch a combo like this, but hey, it's not my money.😁
darkmaker darkmaker Active Member
73 messages
joined Apr 2008
#31 ·
Charles Bailey45 - precisely... he seems intent on moving everything from that battered old bike onto the new one, swapping parts from the Trek onto the Specialized Rockhopper, then using whatever is left over to build up some other frame he’ll eventually have to go out and buy...

In any case, 👎

As I mentioned before, I'd much rather see him invest in a proper, high-quality upgrade for himself and let everyone else figure out their own way, rather than deal with these awkward combinations... Besides, that Trek is practically brand new, so perhaps if my friend worked on his cardio just a little bit, those climbs wouldn't feel quite so punishing.
Edward Long2 Edward Long2 MemberOP
40 messages
joined Oct 2012
#32 ·
Haha, my bad! Sorry for the confusion there...

1. I have a Trek Marlin that I want to beef up.
2. A buddy of mine has a Trek 29 that he wants to upgrade.
3. For a new bike, we'd just build it from the spare parts we already have and just buy a new frame. It doesn't really matter what kind of bike it ends up being, as long as it rides well, brakes fine, and is generally solid...

EDIT: darkmaker, you made a good point.

quietskipper17 said:Basically, the combo would end up being a total waste of time, like I said.
It's a lot of work, the parts might be questionable, you'll only be able to partially fit the "upgrades," and it'll cost too much...

Like I mentioned, all the parts would be checked before buying anything. It's a lot of work, but for people who love bikes, that's half the fun. And I don't get the "partially fitting" thing. What does that even mean? If a part fits, it fits; if it doesn't, we aren't going to force it to work.

Anyway, fair enough, that's just one way to look at it. Thanks for the help regardless.
Morgan Moore37 Morgan Moore37 Member
11 messages
joined Feb 2010
#33 ·
Question for Edward Long2.
Why on earth are you trying to tear apart a brand new Trek?

I’d suggest leaving that bike alone until things actually start breaking down or you're forced to swap parts out; only then should you even think about (PLAN) investing money into the Trek.

Technically, you could move those parts over to your own ride, but you’d better be careful not to cause more trouble than you solve, because if you mess up your own setup, your buddy isn't going to pay you back for whatever you mounted onto his bike.
If your current bike happens to be a Trek, forget about swapping parts; you're better off hunting for a new frame and moving everything onto that, while just staying out of your buddy's business since he won't have any spare parts left for himself.

Look, I guess the components on that custom build are better than what's on the Trek, but at the end of the day, the Trek is a brand new bike, and like I said, don't touch a thing until stuff starts going wrong—once repairs become necessary, then maybe you can take matters into your own hands and change whatever you want, but until then, just sit tight.
quietskipper17 quietskipper17 Active Member
56 messages
joined Apr 2011
#34 ·
I wasn't talking about any shady ways to grab parts, just the fact that if you try to piece together three different bikes, none of them are going to turn out great.
As for anyone here having experience building custom rigs? Yeah, that would be me. 🤣 But hey, it’s not my money or my bikes, so good luck with whatever you're attempting! 👍
Edward Long2 Edward Long2 MemberOP
40 messages
joined Oct 2012
#35 ·
That’s exactly why we’re all here—to talk it out. I don't have any set-in-stone plans yet; I'm just weighing the pros and cons. Honestly, the idea of grabbing a fresh frame and moving everything over from my cracked FS is starting to look pretty good.

Thanks for all the input, everyone...

@Morgan Moore37/">@@Morgan Moore37 - The Trek needs a new cassette and chain anyway. When I first picked up the Trek, everyone told me the brakes were subpar and needed an upgrade (like swapping them for Tektro Aurigas), but now everyone is telling me to just stick with what I've got...
Morgan Moore37 Morgan Moore37 Member
11 messages
joined Feb 2010
#36 ·
quietskipper17 said:I wasn't really talking about some shady way of swindling people; I just meant that if you try to piece together three different bikes, you're probably going to end up with a mess that doesn't actually work.
So, I guess if anyone on this forum actually has some experience with building custom bikes from scratch, I’m pretty much your only option. 🤣 Well, look, it isn't my money or my bikes, so I guess good luck with whatever you guys are trying to pull. 👍

I guess you're right about that, though I suppose two heads might be better than one.
I mean, at the end of the day, he’s the one footing the bill, so I guess his word is final. We’re all just sitting here acting like our opinions actually matter. 😵.

I guess my Trek is just for messing around when the weather's actually decent and I've got some friends to ride with, whereas this SLX setup is more for the daily grind—handling whatever terrain or crappy weather comes my way.

Edward Long2 said:Well, that’s exactly why we’re all here, I suppose—to hash this stuff out. My ideas aren't set in stone or anything; I'm really just trying to weigh the pros and cons. Honestly, though, the more I think about it, the more I'm starting to like the idea of just picking up a brand-new frame and moving everything over from that cracked full suspension.

Thanks to everyone for the comments...

Morgan Moore37, my Trek is pretty much begging for a new cassette and chain at this point. When I first picked up the Trek, everyone kept telling me the brakes were subpar and that I should definitely upgrade them—specifically looking at some Tektro Auriga Comp setups—but now, out of nowhere, everyone is suddenly saying I should just leave them alone... I guess I can't win.

I guess someone should probably just go ahead and pick up a new chain and a cassette, since the gear spacing is pretty much shot. $83 I guess the Shimano version sits a bit higher up the food chain, maybe? I don't really follow what SRAM is doing lately, so quietskipper17, you'll have to weigh in on that one.

The brakes on my Trek are hydraulic, and I'm pretty sure this one uses hydraulics too, I guess.
I don't really know much about the intricacies of hydraulic systems, but I suppose if it’s anything like how car or motorcycle brakes work, it doesn't actually matter which specific setup you have on there. The big things are just the pads and the rotor; the calipers aren't even that crucial, I guess. In my opinion, if you just swap out the pads and the disc, you've pretty much done all the upgrading you need to do for the brakes.
I guess the only real difference between these brakes comes down to the piston size, since everything else seems to follow the exact same blueprint. If I'm not mistaken, a larger piston means you need less oil, which probably results in needing less lever effort to get things to bite. Correct me if I'm wrong on that one.
darkmaker darkmaker Active Member
73 messages
joined Apr 2008
#37 ·
I noticed a sale recently on some Cube Ltd frames for about $65, so it might be worth seeing what they have in stock... if you're planning on putting everything toward a brand-new frame, then I wouldn't bother touching the Trek; just pass it along to your brother. As for your friend, that Trek is essentially new... assuming he's in decent shape, climbing the local trails shouldn't give him much trouble... if it does, he'll build up the stamina through regular riding.

He should probably swap out those brakes for a hydraulic setup—since you mentioned issues there—because you can pick up a full Shimano Acera kit for around $85 on B2B (levers, calipers, rotors included)... or he could just hunt for a deal on Craigslist.

A friend of mine joined me this past weekend for a long ride through the countryside—it was a route starting from the outskirts, heading through the valley, passing the organic farms, hitting the rolling hills, and finishing up near the suburbs.

Anyone who completed that stretch knows exactly what the terrain and the intensity of those climbs and descents are actually like. The bike we were using was the one listed below, which looks quite modest compared to the Trek Space Shuttle... honestly, anyone with enough grit to ride will handle any trail, regardless of whether they're on a top-tier machine or just something basic.

image
Edward Long2 Edward Long2 MemberOP
40 messages
joined Oct 2012
#38 ·
Morgan Moore37 said:Cone user, just buy a new chain and cassette in the same size.$83.

I definitely plan on that. No matter which bike that drivetrain ends up on, it's going to need some work.
Morgan Moore37 said:The Cone has hydraulic brakes, and this one is hydraulic too.
In my opinion, just swap the pads and the rotor, and you're done with the brake upgrade.

To be honest, I'm not even sure what the difference would be between those Magnus setups and my Tektro brakes... Were you suggesting I go with Magnus rotors?

Unfortunately, I can't really manage two bikes since I live in an apartment, so it’s a bit tricky. I can barely keep this one organized.

I love my Cone and wouldn't change much about it, but I'd swap in a different fork and pulleys if dUG1 says it would make a huge difference compared to the DART2. If the hydraulics don't need replacing, I won't touch them.

BTW, that DART2 is in rough shape. It arrived that way when I bought it—filthy and barely functional. I'll need to strip it down and clean it up completely.

@Allexis - I agree that the Trek is new and that's fine, but since we have the chance, why not install hydraulics and a better drivetrain (if it's still good)? I wouldn't give my brother the Cone; the frame fits me perfectly and I'm happy with it. They'll just get him a new frame.

EDIT: Oh right, he needs a 19" frame anyway, so that isn't really an option.
darkmaker darkmaker Active Member
73 messages
joined Apr 2008
#39 ·
First, you really ought to verify whether your drivetrain is even compatible with his Trek, and what the situation is regarding those brake and shifter levers... unless, of course, the plan is to swap every single component over from the Kona onto the Trek.
Edward Long2 Edward Long2 MemberOP
40 messages
joined Oct 2012
#40 ·
If I go with the drivetrain and hydraulics, I’ll just grab everything as a complete set with the levers.

Another option is to leave the Kona exactly as it is and just move the Magura hydraulics and SLX drivetrain over to the Trek.

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