Posts by Larry Ortiz5

The 280x absolutely crushes it 😍

With a power supply that crappy, you might as well hope it keeps the peace along the entire Danube.

crimsonstag84 said:Hmm, but if you're looking at $1700-$600, that's basically the baseline for a GTX 760—whereas for anything less than $533, you could grab an R9 270X OC with 2 or 3 fans. If it were me, I'd probably go with the R9 270X 🙂

You can't really go wrong there, though...

But honestly, regardless of which one they pick, it’s hard to mess that up, right? 😁

Personally, I’d probably lean toward the GTX 760—it’s just a tiny bit more powerful. In my opinion, it's worth shelling out $67 a little extra.

Everything looks fine to me, though I’m feeling a little skeptical about the power supply situation—if this site is right and the draw maxes out at 250 W, then your PSU should handle it just fine. You'd still have roughly 80-90 W of headroom even under a full load (assuming the specs on this page are actually accurate—check the link below). But the real question is, which specific model of power supply are we talking about here? There's a v2 series out there too, you know. If you aren't 100% sure, maybe just pop the case open and check the exact model printed right on the unit itself.

http://gpuboss.com/graphics-card/GeForce-GTX-780

That’s more than enough power for your rig : Click here 😁

You really don't need a 650 W unit—especially since you aren't planning on overclocking that CPU or throwing in another graphics card later on, right?

Well, if you're planning to wipe the drive and install some fresh Windows, you'll have to hunt down all the drivers online afterward—you know, sound, graphics, chipset, and the whole bit. How exactly were you planning on updating the drivers before installing the OS? 🙂 Or am I just missing something here? 😕

Personally, I’d probably cough up about 1200-$433 for that.

It'll work, but honestly? You’d be pretty smart to throw in at least another 1GB of RAM.

It really just comes down to whether you can get used to Windows 8. Honestly, Windows 7 is still fantastic—maybe even the most popular version out there. And yeah, back in April 2014, Microsoft is phasing out support for Windows XP. You can still technically run it, but once they pull the plug on official support, game developers and software companies will eventually stop making things compatible with it. If I were you, I'd just grab a newer version now so you don't have to worry about it later. As for Windows 7 Home Premium, it’ll set you back about $267. I'm not entirely sure which specific version would work best for your setup, though.

That works too, I guess. But if someone is dead set on using a USB, then let them have their 😁

If you can't buy Windows online—maybe because you don't have a credit card handy—the easiest workaround is just to pick up a physical copy at a store like Best Buy. You could head over to a neighbor's or a friend's place, pop the disc into their computer, and create a bootable USB drive. Once that's done, you just leave that USB alone—basically keeping the Windows installation files right there on the drive. That way, if you ever need to reinstall Windows down the road, you’ve already got everything you need ready to go. These days, grabbing an 8GB $17 isn't exactly breaking the bank, right? Honestly, if you want to have Windows sitting on a thumb drive ready for whenever you need it, this is probably your best bet. I don't really see another way around it. If you decide to go this route, let me know—I'm happy to walk you through the specific steps to make that USB bootable, and we'll be all set.

As far as I know, there isn't one. But you can definitely use free tools to burn Windows onto a USB drive instead. Basically, you just download the installation files from the internet, move that ISO file over to a USB stick, and then boot from the USB to install Windows. Another way to do it—if you happen to have a Windows 7/8 disc lying around—is to pop it into your computer, create an ISO file from the disc itself, and then transfer that to your USB. It’s actually pretty straightforward, and honestly, installing via USB is way faster than using an old-school CD.

Why don't you go ahead and list your PC specs? I'd love to see what kind of setup you're planning to run Windows 7 or 8 on.

I’d suggest grabbing CCleaner to clear out all those temporary files and other junk that builds up over time. You might also want to download Malwarebytes and run a quick scan—who knows, you could have some nasty malware hiding in there. It might be worth typing msconfig into your search bar right away, too; that way you can check the Startup tab to see which programs are launching when you boot up and disable anything you don't actually need. Also, if you've really filled up that 500 GB hard drive, that could definitely be part of the problem.

Check out this quick little tutorial—it’ll show you just how easy this actually is. Seriously though, just make sure you read through it carefully so you don't miss anything important.

http://reboot.pro/topic/17327-tutori...-a-simple-way/

If you’ve got a Windows 7 ISO file handy and a spare USB drive, just use Rufus to burn it over—it's much easier. Then, just head into your BIOS, set the USB as your primary boot device, and run the installation from there. Why bother wasting a perfectly good DVD? 🙂

It’s throwing an error saying there’s no optical drive detected—basically, your drive is probably dead. Still, you might want to take what Benjamin King2 said; it could just be a loose cable or something similar. P.S. I’m a little confused, though—why are you using the optical drive to install Windows and boot anyway? If you have a different version of Windows installed, maybe try checking if it throws the same error.

It’ll probably work, but don't expect much—that graphics card is pretty low-end, so you might want to manage your expectations for actual gaming.

That graphics card should work fine with your motherboard since it uses a PCIe slot. It’s got HDMI, DVI, and VGA, so you'll have plenty of ways to hook up your monitor—no issues there. And honestly, back in the day we had AGP cards too, so you really don't need to sweat the small stuff.

Why don't you give this program a shot? I've heard it's actually pretty solid—plus, it won't cost you a dime.

http://www.partition-tool.com/download.htm