It feels like they either can't figure out how to manufacture better cards anymore—or maybe they just don't know how—so now they’re just taking existing graphics, giving them a tiny little tweak, slapping a new name on them, and calling it a day.
I've run into some RAM issues before—I tried matching up the latencies perfectly, but I ended up picking a different manufacturer. One time, I actually missed the mark entirely; my PC just wouldn't boot because the sticks weren't playing nice together, so I had to take them all back. After a few months, I decided to try my luck again and picked up some Patriot memory. It ended up working flawlessly with the rest of the modules in my rig—all five of them worked perfectly. Honestly, if you have the chance to test them out before you commit to buying, you should definitely do it. It’ll save you from having to make two trips back to the store like I did.
DDR5 is obviously faster than DDR3. But let’s be real—if you’re just your average user who isn't really into gaming and just likes browsing the web, you're naturally going to hunt for the cheapest graphics card available. Anyway, to cut to the chase, you should always buy components based on what you actually plan to do with them. For instance, if you're looking at some more serious gaming at 1080p, you might want to check out cards like $333 +.
Regarding that cx 500—it looks like they just caused some confusion by using a photo of the CX430W Bronze instead. If it's indeed the modular version, it’ll definitely make your cable management a lot smoother 🙂.
Plus, it comes with an 80+ certification, so you shouldn't have anything to worry about there.
Sure you can, but only at a really low resolution. That graphics card is just too weak for anything being released these days. If you want to actually play games at a decent resolution, you’d need something like an HD 7750 or 7770. Honestly, if you had one of those, you could probably flip it for more than a few hundred bucks—at least, that's my take on it. Maybe someone else here knows better?
It’s probably better to just wait and see the actual benchmarks for these cards—after all, they're brand new. Besides, who can really say for sure how they'll perform right now?
There's no way I'm hitting 70 fps. Honestly, Battlefield 4 shouldn't be too punishing—though, let's be real, you're probably going to need something a bit beefier than a 770 to actually enjoy it properly.
I think you've got a point there 😁 Especially since he mentioned it's the Ultimate version—if it were just the Starter edition, that would be a whole different story altogether..
To’s not actually that big of a deal to begin with—they aren't even all that pricey. You can usually find plenty of cheap options on eBay, regardless of whether you're looking for an ATA or SATA burner. Honestly, I don't think it's worth stressing out over too much. And as a second thing, if you're worried about how to handle the installation, you can always just run Windows from a USB drive.
If you’re looking to boot Windows 7 from a USB drive, it’s definitely doable—no biggie. The main question is, do you already have an ISO file handy, or are you working with a physical Windows disc? Personally, I always use a little tool called Rufus to burn ISO files onto a thumb drive, and it works like a charm. If you only have the actual CD, you can just grab a small utility like ISO Recorder to turn that disc into an ISO file first—maybe save it right to your desktop? Once you’ve got the file, just pop the USB in, run Rufus, and tell it to move those files over. After that, you just head into your BIOS and set the USB as your primary boot device, and you should be all set.
crimsoneagle50 said:Thanks Larry Ortiz5. 😘 I'll give that other option a shot once I get home—reinstalling isn't really an option right now since Norton was set up three years ago at a company in a different city, so I don't have any of the necessary info if I end up needing a product key or anything like that 😁!
Whatever works for you! Personally, I'm perfectly happy running Avast Free alongside Malwarebytes—the free version works wonders. Regarding that Norton you're using... is it actually a paid version? It's a little strange how it's still running after three years without prompting you to renew or upgrade, isn't it? If it's a cracked version, well, that's one thing, but if it's just a free version, then you've got nothing to worry about. You won't need any keys; just uninstall it, head over to their official site, grab the free version of Norton, and you're all set.
Zachary Carter53 said:I currently have both XP and Windows 8 installed, but I’m looking to get rid of them both—I can't find any drivers for XP since I lost the CDs, and honestly, Windows 8 just isn't running well on this machine. So, I tried to install Windows 7, but right when I went to start the process, I got this error: No device drivers were found. Make sure that the installation media contains the correct drivers, could then click ok. 😕
First off, how exactly were you trying to run the installer? Did you pop in the Windows 7 disc, reboot the computer, and then tell it to boot from the CD to kick things off? Also, did you make sure to set the CD drive as the primary boot device in your BIOS and save those settings? A little more detail would help. Usually, if you boot from a disc, you should have the option to wipe all your existing partitions and create new ones—which sounds like exactly what you want to do to clear out XP and Windows 8 once and for all.
Honestly, the easiest fix might just be reinstalling Norton—it really only takes about two or three minutes. Or, if you'd rather skip that, you could just click the little flag icon down by the clock, open up the Action Center, and then hit "change action center settings" on the left side. From there, just uncheck the box next to virus protection and hit OK. That should do the trick, and the flag icon shouldn't keep flashing warnings at you anymore.