If you’ve plugged everything into USB 3.0 ports, it makes sense that Windows 7 isn't picking them up—it's just that without specific drivers, those 3.0 ports are basically invisible. Since Windows 7 dates all the way back to 2009, most motherboards from that era weren't really built with USB 3.0 in mind. If you're really set on sticking with Windows 7, though, I'm sure your motherboard still has some standard USB 2.0 ports you can use instead.
Once you open a movie with it, the software automatically hunts down subtitles for you—it even lets you check if they’ll actually fit the film, you know, to make sure the sync isn't totally off.
I honestly think that was more sarcasm than an actual thank you... It’s kind of like me asking for a tutorial on how to make my car go faster 124 miles/h when its top speed is capped at 90.
It might just be an issue with the software you're running—I noticed you're using Speccy right now. Why don't you try downloading CPU-Z instead? It might give us a clearer picture of what those temperatures are actually doing...
Well, if you get a chance, maybe try testing that graphics card in another PC for a few days? If the exact same thing happens there, then you'll know for sure the card is toast—but otherwise, which model are we talking about here?
I just did a quick Google query and it looks like your issue—that atikmdag.sys error—is tied directly to your graphics card. It’s almost certainly a driver-related headache...
Grab this tool: http://www.guru3d.com/files-details/...-download.html
This utility cleans out all the leftover junk—you know, those little bits of residue that usually hang around even after a standard driver reinstall. So, here's the plan: run this tool, use it to wipe the old graphics drivers completely, reboot your PC, and then grab a fresh set of drivers from the AMD website. If you're still seeing the same errors after that, I'm worried we might be looking at more than just software—it could be a hardware issue. If that happens, it might be worth testing the card in another computer just to be sure.
You’ll need to jump into Disk Management to get that formatted—just head in there and look for the drive showing up as "unallocated space." From there, you can just right-click and follow the prompts to create a new partition, which should make it show up under "This PC" once you're done.
I figured I'd drop a video tutorial here, just to make things a little easier for you.🙂
placidrider48 said:So I'm running Windows 10, and lately my system keeps crashing out of nowhere, always pointing back to atikmdag.sys as the culprit.
I've got Windows 10 home 64-bit installed, using an NVIDIA GeForce GTX series card. I'm pretty sure I've got the latest drivers since I checked everything through Driver Booster, and I guess all my other hardware is up to date too.
Does anyone happen to know how to fix this?
It started acting up after I took the PC in for a tune-up because it was freezing on me before. The freezing stopped once they cleaned out the dust and gave it a look, but instead of doing a full clean install, I just went with the "Fresh start" option—mostly because I don't actually have a Windows 10 key, just my old Windows 8 one from when I upgraded for free.
Well, if you upgraded to 10 from Windows 8, you still have that digital license stored somewhere; you can easily format the drive, and once you finish installing Windows 10 and jump online, it should activate automatically—so honestly, don't sweat the activation part too much. As for that specific error, try grabbing WhoCrashed 6.01 http://www.resplendence.com/downloads once it's installed, run a scan on your system, and it'll generate a log for you.
silentdriver18 said:Look, I’m an old man, and if there’s one thing I’ve learned, it’s that this whole thing is 🙂completely pointless. Let's look at it this way—yay! I’ve got the new macOS! One last thing—does it actually make sense to stick with this SSD, or should I save it for a rainy day and just go back to an HDD?
Why would you ever ditch the SSD? Don't tell me you haven't noticed the massive difference between an SSD and a hard drive—I mean, the way the whole system behaves, or how fast it boots up... you have to feel that jump, and it's huge. Don't get too caught up in those software benchmarks; what actually matters is how your macOS and your computer feel when you're actually using them with the SSD. Honestly, if you still have free SATA ports on your motherboard, why not just plug in a hard drive to store your movies, music, and all those downloads? You can let the SSD handle the OS and your programs while the HDD handles the heavy lifting for storage.
silentdriver18, I feel a bit bad that you went ahead and installed a fresh version of macOS because of my advice—but, honestly, it’s just like everyone else was saying here. Since your motherboard is limited to SATA II speeds—meaning you're capped at 3Gb/s—you're naturally going to see those "slab" results in CrystalDiskMark. It’s nothing to worry about, really; it's just that with an older setup like yours, the SSD simply can't hit the speeds it was actually designed for.
Once you eventually decide to upgrade to a new motherboard, processor, and RAM, you'll be looking at a board with SATA III connectors—giving you that 6Gb/s bandwidth. On the bright side, when you do make that jump to newer components, you'll be able to pop this SSD right into the new rig without any issues at all. 😁
Hmm, what kind of motherboard are you running? If you could drop the manufacturer and the specific model, that would be great—I'm wondering if you might have accidentally plugged a SATA cable into a 3Gb/s port by mistake.
Look, I’m with silentdriver18 on this one—cloning just means you're essentially duplicating every single headache, from viruses to all those other little glitches. No matter how many programs I have running, I could never bring myself to do it; it's just not my style. But hey, to each their own, right?
Man, I think you might be running into some weird issues here—I’m pulling nearly double your score with my RTX 4070. Honestly? Your best bet is probably just to wipe the C drive, do a fresh install of Windows 10, and then run the benchmark again from scratch. Based on what I saw in your last screenshot (CrystalDiskInfo), it looks like your SATA cable is clocked at 6Gbps, which is perfect... so there isn't a hardware bottleneck there. At this point, a clean format of your SSD is definitely the way to go.
Actually, no 🙂 that’s just CrystalDiskInfo—it basically checks the health status of your HDD or SSD to see if everything is running smoothly. It isn't actually designed to measure read or write speeds through a benchmark . If you want to test speed, grab this instead: CrystalDiskMark.
Honestly, you’ll probably have a much better experience if you just wipe the drive—whether it's your HDD or SSD—and do a clean install of Windows 10. But before you go down that rabbit hole, definitely double-check your BIOS settings to make sure the controller is set to AHCI mode. It might also be worth running a quick benchmark with CrystalDiskMark just to see what kind of speeds your SSD is actually pulling.
