Hmm, you could always try a Windows repair, but honestly? My go-to move is to just grab a Linux Mint live USB, boot from that, and use it to rescue all your important files onto an external drive or a thumb drive. Once everything is safe, just wipe the hard drive and install a fresh version of Windows.
When I search Google for the Smart card CI-691, all I get are various LinkedIn profiles and random retail sites—there isn't even a dedicated official website where you can actually download the drivers... It's a bit frustrating, isn't it? By the way, which version of Windows are you running? It seems pretty strange to me that it didn't just automatically pull the necessary drivers from the internet the moment you plugged it into the USB port.
Man, last time I picked up XP for $100, I ended up getting 🤣🤣—honestly, I’m a bit out of the loop on how all this works now, especially since I started grabbing keys off eBay for $8.25.
It feels a little weird to me that you didn't get a cable included with the printer—though, yeah, you can pretty much pick one up at any Best Buy or tech shop around town.
What exactly are you trying to copy? What’s the specific issue you're running into?
p.s. I actually thought you were talking about the computer case rather than the printer—my bad! 😁 Have you tried installing the drivers for the Canon PIXMA series yet?
If it were wired incorrectly, it wouldn't light up at all—so you're good there. It’s totally normal; I have the power button on my Corsair 200R case constantly glowing, too.
shadowpanther0 said:It's an older machine—I'm just putting XP on it, nothing more advanced than that.
If you're really set on using outdated XP, you might want to grab the x64 version instead? Since, as others have pointed out, Windows x86 versions usually tap out at around 3.5 GB of RAM.
I think you might be overthinking the cooling situation a bit—honestly, it’s not that big of a deal. An SSD doesn't have any moving parts like a traditional hard drive does since it just relies on flash memory. That basically means you can tuck it away pretty much anywhere. My suggestion? Just leave the hard drive right where it's been sitting this whole time, and then pop the SSD into the slot where the CD drive used to be. That should do the trick perfectly.
First off, you might want to check your uTorrent—or whatever torrent client you’re using—to see if both your downloads and uploads are actually moving. It’s also probably worth popping open Task Manager and checking under Performance > Ethernet just to see if there's some random background activity eating up your bandwidth... you know, just in case. If everything looks fine there, I'd say run a full scan with some decent antivirus software; there's a pretty good chance something sneaky hitched a ride on one of those files.
Just grab the Linux ISO you're looking for, and then use Rufus to burn it onto a USB stick. One thing though—before you actually go through with the installation, make sure you head into Disk Management and carve out some unallocated space for a new partition. Like William Richardson12 mentioned, you're definitely going to run into headaches if you don't set up that partition before you start installing Linux.
Since those BIOS settings are adjusted before you even touch the Windows installation, you can't just swap the controller mode after the OS is already on there... You'd basically need to switch it over to Legacy, wipe the drive, and start the Windows install from scratch.
Besides, I don't think this has anything to do with Linux—it’s more likely you have a "quick boot" option available. Just pop in your Linux disc, tap that quick boot key (usually F12 or maybe F10), and select your optical drive from the menu to kick off the Linux installation.
mistydrifter21 said:Does anyone know a place in Washington, D.C. or the surrounding area that handles socket repairs or replacements?
It's an LGA 1151 socket on a high-end Apple's motherboard—honestly, it would be way more cost-effective to just swap the socket rather than replacing the entire board.
There are quite a few bent pins, and one is actually snapped off, so I'm thinking a full socket replacement might be the only real way to go.
Check out this Linus video—except in his case, none of the pins were actually broken, they were just bent, which makes them so much harder to fix...
Yeah, you nailed it—basically every newer or higher-wattage power supply comes equipped with that 4+4 pin CPU connector. It’s pretty much the same deal as the 24-pin motherboard connector; since most modern boards use the 24-pin standard, but some older ones still rely on just 20 pins, you can actually just detach those extra 4 pins from the PSU to get a 20-pin setup for the motherboard. It works just like what you see here in this photo...
To be honest, I've actually never heard of a power supply having a hybrid cable—could you grab a quick photo? Maybe just upload it here to the forum so I can get a look at it...
1, some motherboards come with a 4-pin CPU connector while others use an 8-pin setup—it really varies. Since power supplies usually have separate connectors for this, it’s honestly best to just go with the 8-pin option to ensure everything stays stable. Looking at your PSU, I see it has those available, so just plug the 8-pin connector into the motherboard and you should be all set.
2. I totally get where you're coming from, and honestly, it makes sense—I actually dealt with the exact same thing with my old Corsair unit. You aren't going to break anything or cause a disaster by plugging the wrong thing in; worst-case scenario, the computer just won't boot up. Just make sure you aren't forcing anything—you really want to feel that "click" to know it's seated properly.
