Posts by Larry Ortiz5

quietcyclist32 said:I have an SSD split into two partitions: a 125 GB C drive and an 85 GB E drive. Up until now, I’ve kept everything—macOS and all my software—on the C drive, leaving the E drive completely empty.
Now, when I try to install a program onto the E partition, the installer refuses and claims that the E drive is the root directory. What does that actually mean, and how do I fix this?

Thanks

🙂

When you're running the installer, just switch the drive letter from C to E—leave the other one alone and you should be good to go. That’s basically what I do whenever I'm installing games onto my hard drive... for example, I just swap out the C for an E and hit install. It works the same way for pretty much any program, so that's it.

ironmason18 said:It’s honestly such a bad move—I actually picked up that HP last summer
and if I’d known this was an issue, I wouldn't have touched it with a ten-foot pole.😠

If you really can't stand running cables, you can just plug in a USB adapter, install the drivers, and boom—you've got Wi-Fi on your desktop. It's pretty straightforward, right? Plus, it looks like it's still on sale at Best Buy...

I really miss having that—especially being able to look back at my old threads and actually have a good laugh at myself..

urbancobra15 said:Thanks to everyone for the assist—I finally got things sorted out. It turns out ESET NOD32 was basically tearing my entire system apart, so I’m currently running without any antivirus protection at all. If anyone happens to have a solid recommendation for a good antivirus program, I’d really appreciate the tip.

Just grab Avast Free and pair it with Malwarebytes...

Kevin Kim7 said:Right now, my rig is running on 4 GB of RAM. View on imgur
View on imgur

I picked up another stick from the same manufacturer—4 GB, DDR3, identical specs. But here’s the problem: the second I seat it in the slot and hit power, the system just spits out a series of beeps. Then, about thirty seconds later, the fans kick into overdrive like they're trying to take off. I've cycled through every single slot on the motherboard, but nothing changes. Even when I try running the new stick entirely on its own, the result is the same failure. This is the memory I'm trying to install:
View on imgur

I've dealt with something similar before—for me, it turned out the old and new RAM sticks just didn't want to play nice together. Once I pulled the old one out and just used the new stick, the computer booted up just fine. It is a bit strange, though, that the new stick won't even let your PC start on its own... that usually points to either a faulty module or maybe your motherboard just doesn't support it. Have you checked the sticker on the RAM for the speed? You should probably cross-reference that with your motherboard's specs to see what speeds it actually supports.

David Lopez16 said:Just putting this out there. Now I’ve got the Radeon RX 470 running on an MSI G41MP28 board.
Turns out that ASRock board was incompatible after all.
Everything is assembled, and now the kid is testing out the FPS.😀
Specs are an E7500 processor, 4 gigs of RAM, and a Radeon RX 470.

I’m a little confused there, because a PCIe slot is a PCIe slot, right?

Supports AMD CrossFire
- 1 x PCI Express x16 slot with PCIE Switch card or 2 x PCI Express Graphics slots for AMD CrossFire
- 1 x PCI Express x1 slot
- 3 x PCI slots

So, you put the graphics card into that first x16 PCIe slot, didn't you?

>>1>> Sandra Cook60 is back at it with those voltage arguments—and honestly, it always comes down to the power supply. Look, a Hexa unit is a solid PSU and should have no problem firing up a graphics card like this. If the issue were actually the power supply, you’d see it happen when the card hits full load and starts pulling more juice, not just while it's idling. So, I'm leaning towards it being an issue with the card itself... if the motherboard was the culprit, the old card wouldn't be working either, right? And we can probably rule out the monitor too.

If you happen to have another PC lying around, maybe try popping that Radeon RX 470 in there? If it works fine in a different machine, then we know the issue is definitely with the graphics card itself rather than the rest of your setup...

David Lopez16 said:Yeah, I'm seeing movement—the fans are spinning and everything seems to be powering up, but there's absolutely no signal on the monitor.

Hmm, maybe try pulling the CMOS battery out from the motherboard and leaving it out for about 2 or 3 minutes? That should reset the whole BIOS. If that doesn't do the trick, you might want to try popping your old GT 740 back in just to see if it actually gives you a picture...

Just a silly question here—did you actually plug the PCIe power connectors into the card to give it enough juice?

Eric Alvarez said:Windows 7 64-bit can be quite temperamental on older hardware. Why bother switching if the 32-bit version was running smoothly? If I were in your shoes, I would have just reverted to 32-bit. I've run into similar issues on my old machine—a Q8300 with 4GB of RAM and an HD 6770. It really should be performing fine, yet it struggles; I suspect it might be a hardware limitation, perhaps because the CPU isn't fully compatible with a 64-bit OS. It's just a guess, though.

If it wasn't compatible, you wouldn't even be able to get through the Windows 7 installation process, right?

urbancobra15 said:It’s like, as soon as I finish installing the drivers, everything just starts lagging out. It doesn't matter what I try to open—the whole computer just freezes up for maybe 10 or 15 seconds at a time. It’s pretty frustrating. Also, I should probably mention this, though I’m not sure if there’s even a connection... when I run the graphics driver installer, it won't automatically grab the .NET Framework for me. I have to go out, find it, download it separately, and then install it manually. Weirdly enough, I never had to deal with that back when I was running a 32-bit OS.

That shouldn't be related... like I mentioned before, you should probably check what's going on in Task Manager to see what's eating up resources. You might also want to run a quick health check on your hard drive using CrystalDiskInfo to see if there's any hardware trouble there...

http://crystalmark.info/download/index-e.html

Hmm, so you're telling me it starts stuttering right after a fresh install? That's... unexpected. What exactly is lagging? When the stuttering kicks back in, maybe try opening up the Task Manager—just to see which specific process is hogging all your resources, whether it's CPU usage or RAM usage.

Eric Alvarez said:Don't fall for "new" listings on Craigslist; you're just asking to get scammed.

It doesn't have to be that extreme... I just mean you shouldn't wire any money upfront before they ship the package. It's much better to do a face-to-face meetup so you can actually test the parts and make sure everything is running smoothly—plus, you should always ask about a guarantee.

EDIT: Was that what you were getting at, fadedeagle5? http://www.craigslist.com/cs/pc-computers/listing-21790906?

I mean this one: http://www.craigslist.com/cs/processors/listing-21796285

Brandon Chavez9 said:Gray lines popped up on my screen and I shut it down immediately. Now when I turn it back on, the fan spins up, but the screen stays totally black—nothing happens at all. That little light—the one I think indicates CPU load—flickers on for a second and then just dies.

What should I do? I already tried reseating the RAM, but no luck there.
How can I figure out what actually broke?

Is there any chance you could try plugging it into an external monitor? If you hook it up and still get no picture, it’s highly likely your graphics card or the motherboard has bit the dust. You'll probably need to take it to a repair shop, because on most laptops—if it's the GPU—it's soldered right onto the motherboard. They'd have to desolder it and solder a new one on, and honestly, I'm not sure if that's worth the cost. And if the whole motherboard is fried, well, you're looking at buying a new board plus the labor... Looking at your specs, this isn't exactly a powerhouse, and it's been around for a few years now. Just being real with you—for $667, you could probably pick up a much faster machine than what you're running right now. My two cents? If it really is the component I suspect, it might just be better to let it go rather than sinking so much cash into a repair.

https://www.amazon.com/cooling-solutions/b00abc123

Honestly, I think this one would be a much better pick for you..

amberbadger15 said:Yeah, exactly—but where can I find everything in a single zip file? And does anyone have a tutorial for formatting and all the other stuff I'll need to do?

Pigeon Post

Are you thinking in terms of an ISO file? Look, if you're totally new to this, you might want to grab a friend or a neighbor who's tech-savvy to help you out. You'll first need to get your hands on some Windows software, then create a bootable USB drive or burn it to a blank DVD. From there, you just boot from that, format the drive, and install a fresh version of Windows...

That feels more like something meant for a desktop...

Take a look at those laptop temps using HWMonitor—it’ll give you a better idea of what's going on under the hood. Also, maybe check if that processor actually has integrated graphics? If it does, it might be why your Nvidia GeForce 940MX isn't kicking in. It's worth diving into your graphics settings just to make sure the 940MX is set as your primary GPU...

amberbadger15 said:Dell AOA-150 netbook

Pigeon Post

From what I can tell, that's a pretty old laptop—definitely showing its age. Honestly, if I were you, I’d just go ahead and install Windows 7 Starter. It might be worth just formatting the hard drive and starting fresh with some clean Windows installs...