Posts by Larry Ortiz5

I honestly don't know what his deal is—he seems to think my signature, "you can't even wash yourself," was directed at him personally. Regardless, you just can't talk to someone like that.

Scott Wilson5 Take a closer look—can't you see it clearly listed right next to the price? It says AMD.

Seriously, just give it a rest, you troll.

swiftfalcon89— honestly, that site doesn't really show the gaming benchmarks, which is pretty much the only thing he actually cares about.

Start a new thread here

Also, you didn't really give us much to work with—how are you planning to pay, like all at once or through monthly installments? And does that budget need to cover a monitor and other peripherals too, or are we just talking about the tower itself? It would be great if you could be a bit more specific...

Wait, which power supply are we talking about here?

John Johnson15 said:I didn't apply it because I just swapped things out recently—but honestly, I don't see how that connects to the issue I'm having. If you think it matters, could you walk me through why?

So, just to be clear—after you finished cleaning everything out, did you actually separate the heatsink from the processor?

When was the last time you actually sat down and cleaned the dust out of your PC?

Did you get some fresh thermal paste on the processor yet?

That Pentium can be overclocked all the way to the moon—and its TDP is practically nothing 😁

You’ve got a newer BIOS than what he's using—specifically a UEFI version, which is standard on motherboards from about two years ago onwards. Basically, you just need to head into your boot options and set the CD-DVD drive as your primary boot device. Once you save those BIOS settings and exit, you should see a prompt along the lines of "press any key to start installation." Just hit Enter (or any key, really) at that point, and the Windows setup should kick right in.

Paul Miller64 said:question:

how much of a difference does image quality actually make when jumping from 1080p to 1440p or 4K?

4K is definitely the goal 😁 But honestly, unless you're running something beefy like three GTX 970/980 cards or an NVIDIA GeForce GTX 980 in SLI—paired with a powerhouse processor like an Intel Core i7 5820k or an i7-5930k just to keep things from bottlenecking—you might want to hold off. If you really want to dive into 4K to play the latest titles, just keep in mind you probably won't be cranking everything to Ultra settings. It all really comes down to which specific games you're looking to play, right?

Maybe you could try using Revo Uninstaller to wipe out that junk while you're in Safe Mode... once that's done, just run through some scans with Norton, HitmanPro, AdwCleaner, and the rest of them.

Well, you might as well just say that... Grab Core Temp and use it to check out those temperatures.

http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/hwmonitor.html

I mean, why is it such a hassle to just write down what your computer's temperatures and other component stats are looking like? 🙂

My Seasonic power supply puts out 40A on the +12V rail—that’s about 480W—so it really only has 20W more than yours. Honestly, though? In terms of actual build quality, it isn't even in the same league as mine. If you had gone with $67 more, you could have actually slept easy knowing your PSU was reliable for the long haul. But hey, you got lucky since all these newer components—especially modern graphics cards—draw way less power than previous generations, so that unit might just scrape by...

rapidhound19 said:I just pulled a total rookie move. I was installing some drivers for my laptop and accidentally clicked an option to update the BIOS... and as soon as it started, I panicked and shut the computer down. A split second later, the screen flashes "DON'T TURN OFF YOUR COMPUTER!"

Now when I try to turn it back on, it's just a black screen—nothing happens, not even the BIOS loads..
What should I do?! 😵😵😵

Man, you really did the absolute worst thing possible there... Honestly, there isn't much you can do at home besides taking it to a repair shop—like a local Best Buy Geek Squad or a specialized PC tech. They'll likely have to flash a new BIOS onto the chip manually.

You might be able to get things running if you boot up in Safe Mode..

http://crystalmark.info/download/index-e.html

Go ahead and click that link to grab the standard edition Installer (exe)—it's only about 2.9MB. Once that's done, just go ahead and install it..

Go ahead and download CrystalDiskInfo. Once you get it installed, you’ll likely run into one of three scenarios:

A blue status means everything is looking good—your hard drive is healthy and running smoothly.
A yellow status suggests there are some issues popping up (the app will actually tell you exactly what they are).
A red status is the one you really don't want to see. It means things are getting serious, so please back up all your important files immediately and start thinking about picking up a new hard drive...

Once you have it open, just paste a screenshot here on the forum so we can take a look at what's going on.

Maybe try running Driver Sweeper? It's pretty great for wiping out any leftover junk from those old graphics drivers...

Dennis Carter3 No offense intended, but I think this setup actually beats graniteharbor85's build—mostly because you ended up using the exact same motherboard the OP went with. Since he’s clearly looking to grab the best of the newest tech available, wouldn't it make more sense to go with the H97 chipset? That way, he keeps the door open to dropping in a Broadwell processor later on if he feels like upgrading, right?