Regarding the power supply—if you could snap a photo, that would be a huge help. I’m not entirely sure what the technicians at the repair shop actually did to it. Some PSUs come with a little trick where you can "split" the main connector—basically turning a 24-pin plug into a 20-pin one for older motherboards—and they usually have a little switch or a way to click it back into a full 24-pin if needed.
Since your optical drive uses an IDE connection, it means it's an older model. Most modern motherboards use SATA now, though it sounds like you might already have a SATA optical drive too? If so, your best bet is just picking up a new one at Best Buy or maybe finding a decent deal on a used one online.
EDIT: Take a look at this picture—it shows how you can swap between the 20-pin and 24-pin configurations, assuming your power supply actually supports that kind of flexibility...
Maybe try doing a clean uninstall of your graphics drivers first—just wipe them out, reboot the PC, then head over to the NVIDIA GeForce site to grab the latest versions. Install those and see if anything actually changes. If that doesn't do the trick, well, you might just be looking at a hardware replacement at this point. One other thing you could try—if you have access to another rig—is popping that card into a different computer. It’ll tell you pretty quickly if the issue follows the card or if it’s just your specific setup acting up.
I mean, you can tell he’s just talking nonsense every other second, haha. Just let him be—it's pretty obvious he's just some kid rambling about whatever is on his mind. Personally, I had a buddy who was a Linux user but decided he wanted Windows 7 instead. I just wiped his partition, created a new one, and installed it—no issues at all, and none of this ridiculous drama that kid is whining about...
Batteries dying on laptops—it’s just part of the deal, isn't it? Honestly, that seems to be the one major downside when it comes to portables...
Regarding that other issue you mentioned, try uninstalling the sound card drivers first. Once you've rebooted the laptop, just head over to the manufacturer's website, grab the latest audio driver, and get that installed...
Yeah, I see what happened—it looks like your Z equals Y and your Y equals Z. You really should have toggled that during the Windows installation, but no biggie—you can just head over to the Control Panel, go under Clock, Language and Region, then hit Region and Language, and switch the settings to American.
Nicholas Miller6 It’s not the software, though—that sensor is just giving you a faulty reading. I mean, seriously? If your PC were actually hitting 123°C, it would be a puddle of melted plastic by now, let alone still running...
Well, it actually says right next to every link which version of Windows you're looking at—and whether it’s the x86 32-bit version or the x64 64-bit one. Since you've got 4 GB of RAM installed in your machine, you should definitely grab the 64-bit Windows...
Maybe you're just dealing with some buggy Windows versions that you keep installing... Why not grab the ORIGINAL SETUP HERE, burn it onto a blank DVD, and try a fresh install? It'll be interesting to see if that actually fixes things.
Honestly, the easiest way to handle this is just to pop the case open and take a quick look at the card itself—that'll tell you right away if it's an Intel or Nvidia setup and which specific model you're running. There should be some kind of model number printed right on the hardware...
Maybe try booting up in Safe Mode to see if it actually starts... If it does, then we're probably looking at some nasty malware, so your best bet would be to grab Malwarebytes and AdwCleaner to run a full scan on the machine. Have you given that GPU driver reinstall a shot yet?
