Rebecca Reed3 said:How can I link directly to a specific section of a webpage (like a certain block of text)?
Specifically, here is the page: https://www.iherb.com/r/Solgar-Glycine...aps/15193/?p=1
How do I make it open right to this review titled "Me like": (As a part of a bigger diet plan (that contains no regular milk, gluten and sugar) these pills helps me to maintain a heathy body and a stabilze my bloodsugar.)
Also, does anyone know if that counts as Deep Linking or Inline linking?
I’m not a tech person and don't really use HTML. I found out you're supposed to use <a href="url">Display Text</a>
but it isn't working for me (mostly because I have no idea how to even switch to HTML mode).
I actually saw someone on this forum link to one exact post in a different thread—the post was buried halfway down the page. What HTML did they use for that? All I know how to do is link to the main page and let people scroll until they find what I meant. 🤦
Edit: Did a little digging. It looks like this falls under Deep Linking, whereas Inline linking keeps you on the same page. This matters to me because of copyright stuff. Deep linking doesn't violate copyright.
Anyway, I set up a site on Wix since it's easy enough for a tech novice like me. Now I want to embed some links that jump straight to specific parts of other websites.
The link for any given post is located in the upper right-hand corner. Take a look at this image:
In this picture, here is the link to your specific post. See this #1? That is actually the link! Just right-click and select the option "Copy link address" or "Copy image location" depending on which browser you're using, and then you just paste that URL anywhere—on any website, any blog—and clicking it will bring them right back to this exact post of yours!
Here, give it a shot—I've made a link for you, just click it!
wearymason4 said:That won't work—a "reinstall" is technically a totally fresh installation! However, you might be able to patch things up using "Startup Repair" if some of those pesky system files are corrupted or just plain missing. Try running a "Disk Cleanup" to clear out the digital junk, and maybe disable some unnecessary programs in your "Startup" settings? If you aren't quite sure how to navigate those menus, CleanMyMac can actually help with that! Of course, if you suspect there might be some nasty viruses or malware lurking around, you should definitely run a scan with your antivirus and Malwarebytes... or, you know, find a friend who actually knows what they're doing.
PS: Just Google "repair Windows" and see which method looks best for whatever version of Windows you're running.
I currently have Windows 7 32-bit installed, but I really want to switch over to the x64 version. Even though I have 6 GB of RAM (a 2 GB stick and a 4 GB stick), my computer is barely utilizing even 4 GB of it! According to the technical specs for my motherboard, if you have more than 4 GB of RAM installed while running a 32-bit version of Windows, the usable memory is capped at around 3-something GB. I recall back when my PC was at the repair shop getting a new hard drive swapped in—the technician actually migrated all my old programs directly onto the new drive for me! So, I naturally assumed that kind of thing would be possible during a reinstallation too.
Greetings everyone! I am fairly certain an answer to this inquiry exists somewhere out there—I'd rather not spend my afternoon hunting through endless threads—so I’ll just go ahead and post it right here. When one performs a Windows reinstallation, is there any way to actually save—or perhaps "back up" (I hope I used the correct terminology there!)—all of my currently installed programs? It would be quite a feat to avoid having to manually run the installation procedure for every single application again—we're talking about a good hundred different programs here! My sincere thanks in advance for any insight you might provide.
WhatsApp isn't even available on Symbian OS anymore. Honestly, if they think I'm actually crazy enough to go out and buy a whole new smartphone just so I can have access to WhatsApp—well, they’ve really gone and screwed themselves over, haven't they?
wanderingpanther68 said:Why on earth do these General Electric batteries I get from Best Buy die so fast?🤔 They’ll hold up for maybe a year, and then—bam!—my computer clock starts losing time again. I’ve already swapped the battery twice now... and now on this second motherboard, the clock is lagging by about 20 minutes... the absolute longest they ever last without drifting is a single year.. Is it just low-quality cells, or am I dealing with ancient motherboards? It seems like Best Buy doesn't even stock anything other than those $3.25 ones.
I distinctly remember one CMOS battery lasting me nearly eight years before the clock even started to drift, yet these ones from Best Buy barely make it through twelve months—wtf? This most recent one was also from Best Buy; I picked it up back in the fall, everything seemed fine and then suddenly, over the last few days, the clock is running slow again! ^^
It really comes down to the fact that only genuine, high-quality batteries actually have a decent lifespan. You see this with Casio watches too! When I first bought mine, the battery lasted six or seven years, but when I took it to a local jeweler to get a replacement, that one died in less than two years. You don't need to go to Best Buy or similar specialty shops just to find a CR 2032. You can pick them up at almost any big-box retailer. Sometimes even at places like Walmart, you can find a five-pack on sale for $3.00. These aren't some specialized, high-tech components; they're the exact same type of batteries you'd find powering a digital kitchen scale.
darksurfer4 said:That just isn't the case, plain and simple. If you look at the official pages, they’ve already pulled the plug on Symbian OS—well, most of it anyway—and BlackBerry is essentially dead in the water by December 31st. Meanwhile, WhatsApp is going to keep chugging along on the old Feature phone OS Nokias all through next year. It’s almost absurd when you think about it; I’ll actually be able to run Windows Phone on my old Nokia 3310 while someone with a much pricier iPhone will be left out in the cold.🍿
The reality is they are cutting off everything running anything older than Android 2.3 or iOS 7, and basically ditching every mobile version of Windows except for the latest iteration, Windows 10.
And I’ll say it again: I am currently running Symbian OS on an iPhone, and I can still send messages, photos, and videos just fine! The only catch—and it's a bit of a nuisance, really—is that every single time I open the app, a little pop-up appears telling me that after June 30th, 2017, I won't be able to use WhatsApp on this device anymore. The only way I'd truly lose it would be if I tried to reinstall it and found out there was zero support left to pull it down.
Kate Martin3 said:Don't sweat it; you should be in the clear for the rest of the year, provided they don't push the deadline back again. There's still a massive chunk of the user base clinging to older models.
But here’s the thing—I’m still getting that pop-up notification every single time I launch WhatsApp, warning me that after June 30th, 2017, this device won't be supported anymore... yet, somehow, I can still send messages and photos just fine! Isn't that strange?
darksurfer4 said:It feels to me like you’ve strayed a bit too far from the actual subject matter here; I really think you ought to move this over to the dedicated mobile phone section of the forum.
Well, I did originally post it under Software, but then the moderator moved it right here!
It’s exactly what the title says—WhatsApp on Symbian is actually still working, even though it was supposedly supposed to be dead and buried by June 30th, 2017! I mean, sure, you still get that little pop-up message every single time I open the app, warning me that WhatsApp won't be usable on this device after June 30th... but—believe it or not—it keeps right on running! Is this just going to stay like this indefinitely, or am I simply waiting for my turn to finally be cut off?
The only thing crossing my mind right now—if there isn't much to go on—is to just take a bunch of screenshots. Then, you could simply paste them all into a graphics program (like Paint, which comes standard with macOS) and just print the whole thing out as one big image
Well, I personally OFF—you can go with either the portable version or the full installation if you prefer. It runs perfectly fine on Windows 7, though as for Windows 10? Well, I can't say for certain!
If you're looking to convert that over to an AVI file, I’d suggest selecting the DivX codec for your video—it works wonders!—and then just grab the mp3 setting for the audio track. Alternatively, if you aren't set on AVI, you could always try converting it into an MPEG 2 format instead; just make sure you stick with the mp3 audio choice there too!
So, I just went ahead and did a fresh reinstall of Windows 7 And now I’m running into this one specific headache—something I definitely didn't deal with before the reinstall—and for some reason, I just can't seem to pin down what's causing it.
Every single time I boot up my computer, the wireless is somehow stuck in the "on" position—meaning it's enabled—even though I specifically made sure to click disable right before I shut everything down. I’m honestly at a bit of a loss here; does anyone know where in the settings I can actually fix this? To reiterate: prior to this whole Windows reinstall, the wireless would stay exactly how I left it when I turned the machine off. It was seamless! Now, it's like the system refuses to remember my preference.
Honestly, the simplest way to handle this is just to hop into your web browser—you know, whatever you're using to surf the net—and dive straight into the settings! Once you're in there, you can easily dictate exactly where you want your files to land, or better yet, you can actually toggle an option to have the browser ask you for a destination every single time you start a new Downloads. Isn't that just much more organized?
So, have you actually checked your export settings to adjust the resolution and the bitrate? Specifically—first and foremost—the bitrate! Honestly, it’s such a headache; in one of my video editing programs, I find myself manually tweaking the bitrate every single time I hit export. It defaults to a measly 512 kb/s, which is just... well, it's tragic! I usually have to bump it up to about 2500 kb/s to get anything usable. If I happen to forget that little step even once? The resulting video looks absolutely miserable.
Brenda Cruz23 said:I’m looking to put together a video tutorial for one of my software programs, and I’ve been playing around with a few different tools—like Snagit, Handbrake, and Adobe Debut Video Capture—but honestly, I just haven't been happy with the results. The main issue is that all the text within my videos ends up looking all jagged and pixelated, to the point where some of the lettering is barely even legible. I’ve been spending quite a bit of time watching tutorials on YouTube, and whenever I switch them to full screen, the text looks absolutely fantastic—super crisp and incredibly easy to read. I can't quite figure out what kind of software those creators are using to get that level of clarity when they upload their content to YouTube.
Well, maybe it isn't the software itself, but rather your export settings? You really have to crank up the video resolution and the bitrate—don't just settle for the factory defaults! If you want to match those high-end YouTube creators, the gold standard is probably Camtasia Studio, though it will definitely cost you a bit. If you're looking for something free, you could try Atube Catcher, or—even easier—just search Google for "free screen video capture" and you'll be flooded with options. Just a heads-up: some of those "free" commercial ones are pretty limited or will slap a giant watermark right over your footage... which is a total pain! But seriously, the most important thing is dialing in those output settings. Your bitrate should be at least 2500.
Now, just cutting a person out from an existing video—well, that’s a bit more of a headache, isn't it? But! If you record someone standing in front of a solid blue or green screen—you know, a classic chroma key setup—then you can just use a chroma key tool to swap out the background whenever you feel like it. Though, if you're just starting out, it might feel a little daunting... honestly. Why not just head over to YouTube and search for "chroma key tutorial"? There are tons of great guides floating around there to help you get the hang of it. Personally, I find myself reaching for Corel VideoStudio most of the time!
It seems pretty obvious that sales for version 10 are lagging behind expectations—so, naturally, they’re looking to offload these older iterations, aren't they?
And let's be honest—in a perfect world, most corporations would stick to licensed, official versions (though, if we're being real about the small businesses out there, there's always been a certain amount of "gray market" or unlicensed software floating around the US)—but what exactly does Microsoft think is going to happen here? Do they honestly believe big companies are just going to jump to the latest software updates every single time a new one drops? It isn't quite as simple as just changing a tie and calling it a day!
electricharbor30 said:Man, Windows 10 keeps pulling this absolute nonsense with my audio settings—it just goes ahead and installs new drivers via an automatic update and then decides to set some non-existent pair of headphones as my default playback device instead of my actual speakers... honestly! The workaround? Just right-click that little volume icon down in the taskbar, run the troubleshooter, select your actual speakers, and hit "apply this fix"... works every time!
Thanks so much! Your suggestion actually worked for me. I was seriously starting to think I’d have to shell out money for a brand new sound card—or even worse, a whole new motherboard! 👍
